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post #751 of 1318

Could anyone give me a ballpark on the pricing of those suits in the Good Category?  Trying to determine which are the best values of the bunch.  I'm sure they have different cuts so my current favorite suit is my Fitz cut 1818 suit from Brooks Brothers.  

 

I'm 6'6 about 245.  Wear a 48L with a 34-36 inch waist.  Any insight would be fantastic.

post #752 of 1318
$500 to $1500 depending on where you're looking. Your best bet is to check ebay or SF B&S for the best pricing.
post #753 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

$500 to $1500 depending on where you're looking. Your best bet is to check ebay or SF B&S for the best pricing.

 

Would going MTM be a better bet?  Any idea what the best values would be for MTM from each?  

post #754 of 1318

Samuelsohn suits start around $1,100 up in my neck of the woods, but I have lucked into a few on sale at $599.  MTM for Samuelsohn runs $1200 - $1500 depending on fabric and options and that is the route I have most often taken.

post #755 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post


Quality should be similar. The Made in Spain suit is probably cheaper because of the lower manufacturing costs as compared to Switzerland/Italy, but it's still fully canvassed.

It could also depend on the fabric though. Mainline Zegna suits can vary in price (even if manufactured in the same country) depending on the fabric. The 15 Mil and Trofeo fabrics sometimes cost a little more.

Funny you should mention the Trofeo. What in the world is that? Sorry but I am really a homer. So the Made in Spain is the Milano All Season line and the Made in Switzerland says Torino Trofeo or something like that on the label. I'll get a picture if anyone is unsure.

 

Followup - Zegna SA says Trofeos are finer fabric hence the price difference. Should've been a no brainer.


Edited by rudals1281 - 4/29/13 at 1:57pm
post #756 of 1318

Excellent [*****] 

- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Isaia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Zegna Couture
- Tom Ford


Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
-J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Piombo



Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna
- Tonello

 

 

Question: I am 30 years old, 165lbs, 6ft,  and  I like fitted (maybe some can call it slim-fitting) suits like Zegna's Torino or RLBL. Can I find cuts like these in the top two tiers?! Tom Ford was like a freaking blanket to me when I tried on 38R. I have also tried on ISAIA and RLPL, both baggy.

post #757 of 1318
Isaia has various cuts that are slim (Base S or Base Gregory). Also, some Caruso suits have very high drops; as high as a Drop 10 in some cases.

Lanvin suits are a drop 8 and made by Caruso to their highest standards; I recommend grabbing one if you can get a good price. And I think the Dior Couture suits are made by Lanvin as well, and are a drop 10. You can't get much slimmer then that.
post #758 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickrut View Post

Could anyone give me a ballpark on the pricing of those suits in the Good Category?  Trying to determine which are the best values of the bunch.  I'm sure they have different cuts so my current favorite suit is my Fitz cut 1818 suit from Brooks Brothers.  

 

I'm 6'6 about 245.  Wear a 48L with a 34-36 inch waist.  Any insight would be fantastic.

I have done MTM Samuelson for as little as $1,200 (Canada with Harry Rosen).  Other fabrics can be even better.  On the other hand, you can pick Canali starting at $1,800 and go right out of the ballpark with Vicuna.  E.Zegna will start at $2,000 with the mainline cloths. 

 

IMHO, an OTR Canali totally blows away a MTM Samuelson.  I have both.   Both are fully canvassed, but it is just different. I have seen the new display of Samuelson 1923 with Zegna fabrics and lots of handiwork.  they look nice.

post #759 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudals1281 View Post

Excellent [*****] 

Question: I am 30 years old, 165lbs, 6ft,  and  I like fitted (maybe some can call it slim-fitting) suits like Zegna's Torino or RLBL. Can I find cuts like these in the top two tiers?! Tom Ford was like a freaking blanket to me when I tried on 38R. I have also tried on ISAIA and RLPL, both baggy.


I am the same size as you, and I just bought a Borelli that was reasonably slim fitting (although not hipster slim.) I think a lot of the more expensive brands are cut larger, because their typical clientele are older / larger, but they usually have some slimmer fitting styles.
post #760 of 1318
Check out this suit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1893-Italy-LANVIN-PARIS-Wool-Houndstooth-Suit-48-IT-38-M-Jacket-Blazer-Pants-/261202468947?pt=US_CSA_MC_Suits&hash=item3cd0e16053

Lanvin has some of the best RTW slim-fitting suits. If the above suit was one size larger, I would have bought it already.
post #761 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post

I have done MTM Samuelson for as little as $1,200 (Canada with Harry Rosen).  Other fabrics can be even better.  On the other hand, you can pick Canali starting at $1,800 and go right out of the ballpark with Vicuna.  E.Zegna will start at $2,000 with the mainline cloths. 

 

IMHO, an OTR Canali totally blows away a MTM Samuelson.  I have both.   Both are fully canvassed, but it is just different. I have seen the new display of Samuelson 1923 with Zegna fabrics and lots of handiwork.  they look nice.

Otr Canali blows away MTM Samuelsohn?  How have you come to this conclusion?

post #762 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff13007 View Post


I would agree with you if you just said Oxxford. But Kiton has machine usage in their process as well as many of the other top tier makers. If we were going by that we would have to knock down everyone expect for Oxxford, Attolini, and possibly Brioni but the last would be borderline

That machine usage is surely very very minimal, no?

post #763 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Isaia has various cuts that are slim (Base S or Base Gregory). Also, some Caruso suits have very high drops; as high as a Drop 10 in some cases.

Lanvin suits are a drop 8 and made by Caruso to their highest standards; I recommend grabbing one if you can get a good price. And I think the Dior Couture suits are made by Lanvin as well, and are a drop 10. You can't get much slimmer then that.

Don't think Lanvin make suits for Dior Couture. My understanding Dior Homme was made by Caruso also, not sure with Dior Couture. Lanvin don't make suits since they also procured their suits to RC and Pal Zileri IIRC. Btw I used to have one Lanvin suit that're made neither by them with a much higher quality. Was under the impression it was made by Mabro but not sure either.
post #764 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendragon View Post


I am the same size as you, and I just bought a Borelli that was reasonably slim fitting (although not hipster slim.) I think a lot of the more expensive brands are cut larger, because their typical clientele are older / larger, but they usually have some slimmer fitting styles.

Yes, I totally agree that the brands in the top two tiers aim at an older crowd. What line of Borelli did you get? 

post #765 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankie22 View Post

That machine usage is surely very very minimal, no?


http://www.styleforum.net/t/39123/kiton-what-is-really-inside-lots-of-pics
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