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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 48

post #706 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post


I'd certainly pick most polo over just about anything in Satisfactory, and over a fair amount of Good.

Keep in mind Polo has several different lines, some of which are better than others.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post


It doesn't deserve to move up. Isaia has a ton more handwork. BC is entirely machine made like Zegna, with some amazing cashmere. The fabric doesn't warrant another spot up (just a note in parentheses)
PRL is definitely satisfactory. Half canvas. Remember that we're grading on a curve here, and that Polo is 99.9999% better than anything on the street.

 

I'm with Aravenel.  Polo is head and shoulders above BB 1818, Suit Supply and the other "Satisfactory" suits.

post #707 of 1317
Regarding J Press, is their Presstige line full-canvass? I thought only their Pressidential line is. Any opinions in their York St line?
post #708 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post


I'm with Aravenel.  Polo is head and shoulders above BB 1818, Suit Supply and the other "Satisfactory" suits.

There's definitely variation within the categories. It's definitely towards the top of the category.

But certainly can't put PRL on par with mainline Corneliani
post #709 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post


There's definitely variation within the categories. It's definitely towards the top of the category.

But certainly can't put PRL on par with mainline Corneliani

 

I agree. 

post #710 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post


I'm with Aravenel.  Polo is head and shoulders above BB 1818, Suit Supply and the other "Satisfactory" suits.

Well, my point was not so much that it didn't belong in that category (although there are some Polo lines that are full canvassed) as that there is definite variation within the categories.

The categories are purely about construction quality. Within each, there are manufacturers that make suits that are cut much more in line with what I may want, or have other features I may want.

For instance, Oxxford and Kiton (or Brioni and Attolini) cut suits that are pretty polar opposite from one another. Theyre all extremely well made, but I may much prefer one over the other.
post #711 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post


Well, my point was not so much that it didn't belong in that category (although there are some Polo lines that are full canvassed) as that there is definite variation within the categories.

The categories are purely about construction quality. Within each, there are manufacturers that make suits that are cut much more in line with what I may want, or have other features I may want.

For instance, Oxxford and Kiton (or Brioni and Attolini) cut suits that are pretty polar opposite from one another. Theyre all extremely well made, but I may much prefer one over the other.

 

This was somewhat my original point in noticing that Polo keeps bouncing between the two categories and is either the best of the Satisfactory category or on the lower end of the Good category.  The people who belive it should be in the Satisfactory category point to the fact it is half canvassed, while the people who bump it to the Good category point out the fabric and fit of the suit.

post #712 of 1317
I think Polo should stay in satisfactory; it doesn't make sense to lump it in with RLBL.

And Polo Blue label is always half canvassed. I think only the vintage stuff was fully canvassed.
post #713 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

I deleted the double RLPL post.

Should we move Zegna Couture and Tom Ford to the very top?

I'd support moving up Zegna Couture up a notch....construction is superb, fit as well although I'm not an expert....anyone else?

post #714 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

I think Polo should stay in satisfactory; it doesn't make sense to lump it in with RLBL.

And Polo Blue label is always half canvassed. I think only the vintage stuff was fully canvassed.

I thought some of the made in Italy stuff was made by Corneliani and was full canvassed.

Anyways, yes, I support leaving it where it is, though it is probably clearly at the very top of that list.
post #715 of 1317


- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- St Andrew

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Zegna Couture
- Tom Ford

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Presstige (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna

- Alfani

- DKNY

- Donald Trump

- Tommy Hilfiger

- Michael Kors

post #716 of 1317
La Vera Sartoria Napoletana should be in the Excellent category
post #717 of 1317

One more time: J Crew Ludlow suits are half canvassed with wool fabrics from good Italian mills. I'd put them in the lower-to-middle range of "satisfactory".

Quote:
Originally Posted by rudals1281 View Post


- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- St Andrew

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Oxxford (1220)
- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Zegna Couture
- Tom Ford

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Presstige (full canvas)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)

- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Joseph Abboud
- Zara
- H&M
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)
- Z Zegna

- Alfani

- DKNY

- Donald Trump

- Tommy Hilfiger

- Michael Kors

post #718 of 1317
Nobody's stopping you from adding it; go for it!
post #719 of 1317

any opinion in chester barrie OTR?

post #720 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

I think Polo should stay in satisfactory; it doesn't make sense to lump it in with RLBL.

And Polo Blue label is always half canvassed. I think only the vintage stuff was fully canvassed.

The Made in USA (think it's made by Southwick and Workers Union) is full canvassed.
The first Made in Italy (precursor to RLPL by Corneliani) iteration is full canvassed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redboat View Post

One more time: J Crew Ludlow suits are half canvassed with wool fabrics from good Italian mills. I'd put them in the lower-to-middle range of "satisfactory".

I may be wrong however my experience with J Crew Ludlow is fused. It's being advertised as canvassed chest piece and is totally a different beast to half canvassed. PRL Blue Label is half canvassed.
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