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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 46

post #676 of 1317

Is there a similar thread of this sort for shoes?

post #677 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Engineer View Post

Is there a similar thread of this sort for shoes?

Ask Andy has a page with most brands, otherwise just check out the dedicated shoe threads
post #678 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- St Andrew

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma / RL Purple Label / Lanvin
- Zegna Couture

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Boglioli
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- K by Canali
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline RLBL
- Samuelsohn

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- Etro
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label) (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett
- Hugo Boss Selection half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- Lardini and related brands (Ferragamo suiting)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Racing Green
- Suitsupply
- Z-Zegna

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)

- Hugo Boss
- J. Press
- Joseph Abboud
- Marco Valentino (half canvassed)

Can I dare to move E.Zegna up one level? Quality of fabric and construction is at the least better than average and they have different cuts that are daring...errrr just slim fit. I bought the "Torino" cut that is fairly similar in terms of cut to RLBL. Anyhow, +1 on moving E.Zegna up a level. How many +1 do I need from others to have it moved up?! C'mon~

post #679 of 1317
The next level, Belvest, Attolini, etc, are all handmade suits. E Zegna is definitely not on par with those suits, as nice as it is.
post #680 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

The next level, Belvest, Attolini, etc, are all handmade suits. E Zegna is definitely not on par with those suits, as nice as it is.

shoot, I didn't realize the list changed drastically. I was referencing the wrong list. Who cares, let's just wear what fits us best. I might even try ZARA

post #681 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudals1281 View Post

Can I dare to move E.Zegna up one level? Quality of fabric and construction is at the least better than average and they have different cuts that are daring...errrr just slim fit. I bought the "Torino" cut that is fairly similar in terms of cut to RLBL. Anyhow, +1 on moving E.Zegna up a level. How many +1 do I need from others to have it moved up?! C'mon~

 

I think it's at the right level where it is.  I own Zegna, Pal Zileri, Corneliani, Canali, Faconnable Tailleur, and Samuelsohn, and have handled most of the rest in the "good" category, and I'd say that all of these are generally comparable in terms of quality of fabric and construction.  Keep in mind that there will be large variations in fabric and cut for each maker, and also most of them will have different specifications for their own lines and for contract work.  

 

Also, each of us will tend to prefer something somewhat different.  For me, I prefer Zileri's construction, particularly of the shoulders, especially relative to Canali and Corneliani, and I tend to prefer the fabrics used by Zileri (lighter weights) and Samuelsohn (heavier weights, particularly some of the Scottish tweeds they use in their jackets for Paul Stuart).  Zegna of course has a lot of nice fabrics as well.  But these are all personal preferences, and shouldn't affect a more general quality-based hierarchy too much.

 

The one I would argue to move down is HF.  I see a lot of their stuff coming through Nordstrom Rack and Off Fifth and the like, and I have not been very impressed.  Also they've gone to obscuring their lines so it's harder to tell what's really their best quality stuff, but most of it seems half-canvassed.

post #682 of 1317

Out of curiosity where would you all rank Kent Wang's suits?
 

post #683 of 1317
Changes to othertravel's list. (bolded)

hickey is crap these days



Excellent [*****] - Suits made this well are far and few between; if money is no object, your closet would be full of these. Full Canvas and tons of handwork)

- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- St Andrew

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma / RL Purple Label / Lanvin
- Zegna Couture

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- K by Canali
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Presstige (full canvas)

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label) (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett
- Hugo Boss Selection half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- Lardini and related brands (Ferragamo suiting)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Suitsupply
- Z-Zegna
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- Hickey (fused, now made in China, not US)
- Joseph Abboud
Edited by jrd617 - 4/23/13 at 5:55pm
post #684 of 1317
Which one is the best value in the top and very good categories? What price range would one expect
post #685 of 1317

Charles Tyrwhitt in the same league as Boss Sartoriale??

 

I find it hard to believe.Not because Boss Sartoriale is that good but because CT is pretty low.

post #686 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickrut View Post

Which one is the best value in the top and very good categories? What price range would one expect

They are all very well made suits and it really would come down more to what fit and style you prefer as they each cut different suits.

In terms of pricing, all of those top two levels are anywhere from $3500-$8000 for a suit.
post #687 of 1317

J Crew Ludlow suits are half canvassed with fabric from good Italian mills, really surprisingly good construction and easy to find on sale...

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Changes to othertravel's list. (bolded)

hickey is crap these days



Excellent [*****] - Suits made this well are far and few between; if money is no object, your closet would be full of these. Full Canvas and tons of handwork)

- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- St Andrew

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma / RL Purple Label / Lanvin
- Zegna Couture

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- K by Canali
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Presstige (full canvas)

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label) (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett
- Hugo Boss Selection half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- Lardini and related brands (Ferragamo suiting)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Racing Green
- Suitsupply
- J Crew Ludlow (half canvassed)
- Z-Zegna
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- Hickey (fused, now made in China, not US)
- Joseph Abboud
post #688 of 1317

I think Giorgio Armani Black label is low, look at their recent offerings.  E.Zegna is doing the cloths and probably providing advice.  Armani Collezione would be at the Good level. 

 

Addition:  Brunello Cuccinelli.  Surprised this has not come up yet.

post #689 of 1317
I will say that i am quite happy with the fit a of couple Armani Collezione jackets i have, nice clean sloped shoulders with a slight rope. The armholes are not as high as you would like, and i am unsure of the construction. Fabrics can be good if you avoid any poly blends, which can be hard to avoid. Might be in the satisfactory level...
post #690 of 1317
BC added



Excellent [*****] - Suits made this well are far and few between; if money is no object, your closet would be full of these. Full Canvas and tons of handwork)

- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- St Andrew

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Zegna Couture
- Tom Ford

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL
- Samuelsohn
- J. Press Presstige (full canvas)

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Cornelaini (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones)
- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- Lardini
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Suit Supply
- Z Zegna
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre to Poor[*] (Suits that are mediocre to poor.)

- J. Press mainline (fused)
- Hugo Boss (fused)
- Hickey (fused, now made in China, not US)
- Joseph Abboud
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