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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 45

post #661 of 1303
Not everything within those groups is equal.

I would move Etro, Zegna, Zegna Couture up one and K by Canali down one.
post #662 of 1303
I would also drop Armani black label down a notch; I don't think they use full canvassing anymore. The suits I tried actually had none.
post #663 of 1303

Where would Samuehlson fit on this list?  Or not at all

post #664 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickrut View Post

Where would Samuehlson fit on this list?  Or not at all

I would leave Samuelsohn where it is.
post #665 of 1303
Double post.
post #666 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by JTA View Post


Overall E. Zegna (not Z Zegna) suit is a better quality garment than RLBL suit nevertheless IMHO Ralph Lauren got it right with the RLBL suiting line, as it offers good value for money (fully canvassed with sufficient bells and whistles) with aggressive cut. General public won't notice the details that make EZ a better suit unlike general SF community.
 

So if E. Zegna is of higher quality why is it lower on the list? I thought the list is based on quality and not a price/value ratio otherwise Kiton wouldn't be the best "value" suit although it's easily one of the finest.

 

Move E. Zegna up for sure.

post #667 of 1303
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post #668 of 1303
Eh, Zegna is a well made, fully canvassed, but relatively basic machine-made suit. It's in just the right place IMO.
post #669 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Eh, Zegna is a well made, fully canvassed, but relatively basic machine-made suit. It's in just the right place IMO.


And RLBL? should that be moved down then because to my knowledge it has minimal handwork as well although I could certainly be wrong

post #670 of 1303
RLBL is machine made too.

Caruso-made suits aren't all made to the same specs. JeffreyD (name?) had a blog stating that Caruso has a separate section in their factory for hand-made suits (e.g. RLPL)

This list is a good idea, but has some mistake that need to be fixed.
post #671 of 1303
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- St Andrew

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma / RL Purple Label / Lanvin
- Zegna Couture

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Boglioli
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- K by Canali
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline RLBL
- Samuelsohn

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- Etro
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label) (alot of their pieces are fused)
- H. Freemann
- Hackett
- Hugo Boss Selection half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- Lardini and related brands (Ferragamo suiting)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Racing Green
- Suitsupply
- Z-Zegna

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)

- Hugo Boss
- J. Press
- Joseph Abboud
- Marco Valentino (half canvassed)
post #672 of 1303
For your consideration I've reordered the list; underlined items indicate new/and or changed listings.
post #673 of 1303
Why is Oxxford missing from the list?
post #674 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post


And RLBL? should that be moved down then because to my knowledge it has minimal handwork as well although I could certainly be wrong

You're right--I'd put it in the same tier as E Zegna.

Oxxford should definitely be on the list, in the top tier likely. Their cuts may not be to SF-liking, but they are unquestionably impeccably made suits.
post #675 of 1303

i'm eyeing ring jacket

which tier should it in?

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