Last year I checked BBBF is "Made in USA" manufactured by Southwick and is half canvassed.
I'd one Lanvin by Caruso suit and the cut is very slim. The suit is very sharp and well made though at an exorbitant price point at retail.
^ I think that depends on how you special order it. BB offers a MTM option for 1/16 Picked Stitched or Hand Stitched coat lapels so those options may result in more handwork than the standard lapels.
My MTM Golden Fleece suit jacket has hand sewn arm holes, hand stitched lapels, hand stitched chest (welt) pocket, hand sewn buttonholes and hand sewn sleeve buttonholes. My MTM trousers have a hand sewn waistband. I remember the sales associate telling me that there was 18 hours of handwork in every MTM Golden Fleece suit.
Comparing the MTM Golden Fleece jacket to what I own, it definitely has less handwork than my Isaia Aquaspider sport coat and it has more handwork than my Corneliani sport coats.
I think owning a Thierry Mugler suit is like owning an exquisite piece of architecture and his suits are hailed for its structure that modls the body like sculpted art. There's boldness to it. A Vintage or genuine Thierry Mugler suit should be made in France.