The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 42

The Caruso-made Lanvin suits are priced higher because of some of the additional handwork (Caruso made Lanvin suits have sleeveheads that are attached by hand). Pal Zileri Sartoriale (PZ's highest line) does this as well. The advantage of this is added comfort and flexibility. But the question is whether it's worth the extra $1k for this feature. I have a Pal Zileri Sartoriale Sport Coat for sale in one of my threads that has some additional info on the quality of their product.

I believe the PZ-made Lanvin suits are fully canvassed; you should do the pinch test. At that price point, I would guess full canvass and machine made (this isn't a bad thing; mainline Canali and Zegna are also machine made - somebody correct me if I'm wrong).

Pal Zileri is a great brand and is on par with Caruso and Corneliani. I lean slightly towards PZ based on styling though.

If you want a mainline Caruso suit, you can usually find them on ebay for $500-700. A Caruso Sartoria Parma (their highest line) can also be found in that price range (Caruso SP has more handwork - it will also save you money since you won't have to buy a 'Lanvin' branded Caruso suit).

I think you got a decent deal. A fully canvassed, cashmere blend, charcoal suit is a winner in my book.

And to be more direct to your question; it's probably on par with mainline Pal Zileri (full canvass, machine made).

it is fully canvassed, machine made.. a bit roomier though but nice natural shoulders, decent drape and great fabrics..

Yes, I've checked out similar suits from Lanvin recently and have been impressed. Yes, they're pricey, but you're paying for that style, and they have a unique look. I'm usually partial to a somewhat skinnier suit, but I think Lanvin is more modern these days with the drape quality. $2K is a about right for full-canvass designer suit. There's always a whole host of guys who'll tell you, you could get better quality for that price point, and easily you could, but you wouldn't get that look, which is as important in my book.

Lanvin suits are a drop 8, so definitely on the slimmer side. They also have interesting fabrics; a lot of their suits have a micro window-pane weave.

Personal view.

PZ mainline has a slightly better quality than Canali nevertheless these two plus Corneliani and Caruso mainline offer the best bang for the bucks during retail sales. Kei by Canali, Raffaele Caruso Sartoria Parma, Corneliani Linea Sartoria and PZ Sartoriale are on the next level.

Thank you all for your input, it was very informative.
I wasn't looking for a Caruso branded suit, I just felt "safer" with Caruso since I was more familiar with the brand and its quality than Pal Zileri. Like SirGrotius mentioned, I was looking for a "quality" suit but I also wanted a more "forward" style, that is why I was looking mostly at "designer" brands. It's true that I could get the same quality for less, or a better quality for the same price elsewhere but I wasn't looking for a bargain.
That being said, I really like the suit, it's fabric, detailing and cut (it is indeed a drop 8 and slim fitting. Not constricting in any way but cut to be close-fitting) so I hope that this was only the first step in the "world of suits".

Just throwing in my 2 cents....I'm a long time lurker and have learned a lot from this site and its contributors.  Biggest thing I've learned is I've made a lot of mistakes in suit choices.  Anyway, based on my closet and experience I can't really comment on the upper echelon of suits here (which to me is anything above "Good").

 

My closet:

2 Hickey Freeman mainlines (just recently purchased)

1 Cerruti 1881 (not sure what line but says made in Italy-at least the fabric?),

2 Gieves and Hawkes (not sure what lines but they mention 1 Saville Row)

2 Hugo Boss (made in Turkey)

2  Joseph Abboud

2.  Michael Kors

1 Calvin Klein

1 or 2 pretend Italian designer names that are Super 150s but crappy construction.

 

1.  I know people beat up Hugo Boss on here but I don't see how the majority seem to agree that Hugo Boss can be in the same class as Joseph Abboud.  I have both brands and my Hugo Boss suits I believe are much better quality (at least fabric and construction wise) than a Joseph Abboud which I got as part of a Buy 1 get 2 free deal at Karako...which essentially made the cost of the Abboud $200.  Unless it's all about being fused but then maybe we need a fused section of the list (which I'm sure many members here would not be interested in but I bet the lurkers or people who have money concerns and need quantity over quality would appreciate).  I will also say that of all the suits I wear, which I believe are all well tailored, I only ever get compliments on the Hugo Boss suits.  I believe others have said that here as well. 

 

2.  Where do Gieves and Hawkes and Cerrutit fit in on the list?  I bought my Gieves and Hawkes and Cerruti 1881 back in 2004 at Century 21 so I don't know about what they put out today but I'd be interested to see where they now stand on the list.  I also can't tell if canvassed or not but they seem and feel so well made I would bet they are.

Cerruti 1881 is half canvassed.. decent fabric but way over priced.. lower armholes, shoulders that are not that well done and the ones I have seen no bermberg lining. So it is ok but not great for its price point..I wish we could help you in terms of hierarchy when it comes to fused suits but you will not get that here..its not that Hugo Boss is fused.. its the price point they charge and other quality concerns.. first off paying almost a grand for fusing will not get love on here..2, the shoulders are all lumpy looking.. it looks weird and kills the concept of clean lines.. the armholes are not as high as they should be for how slim they are... on the plus side some of the models use bermberg lining, horn buttons and always employ lower button stances.. but again for the price point is just plain high-way robbery..Ive never handled a Gieves and Hawkes suit so I cannot attest to that.. hope this helps..

Thanks chocsosa. I agree Hugo Boss is not worth the $795 price point but if you get on sale for $300something, like I did, than maybe.

On the G&Hs I have I see they're made in the USA. I understand from another thread Hickey Freeman probably made them. Not sure if that's true and if they still do.

I'd be interested in seeing the online custom suit makers added to the list as one category with each one ranked in the category. There's a bunch now and they seem to be growing in popularity. From what I read Black Lapel seems to have a good rep for quality with Indochino not so much.

From what I've seen at Barney's it's pretty nice but not at the retail price.

Also lists don't make sense if you have different makers within lines like for BB. Is the Golden Fleece made by Martin Greenfield? Southwick? Italian Maker? Same thing with Black Fleece, Caruso Fall 2007, Caruso, Southwick, Thailand, etc.

How many lines does Caruso have? I bought a couple of their suits from Yoox and love them, but are there several lines? The suits appear to be half canvassed. I found their cuts superior to almost every other brand for fit with a rather aggressive drop.

Golden Fleece is made by Martin Greenfield.. Dont know who makes Black Fleece though..

If I'm not mistaken Black Fleece is designed by Thom Browne I'm not sure if they utilize the same maker as his regular line though

Regarding the Lanvin. I have a Lanvin blazer made by Caruso, super 150s, I think it's fully canvassed (pitch test). Regarding for most of the designer brand (fashion) their suit could be very well made but way over priced. However you are getting the particular look.