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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 40

post #586 of 1316

How is the quality and fit of Caruso? The Neimans has Caruso tailors coming in next next weekend and will do MTM for approximately $1600.

 

And how do Caruso suits match up against Ralph Lauren Black Label? Thanks!

post #587 of 1316

I think there's no linear classification... If you look at the handwork, nothing is better than Cesare Attolini. Kiton fabrics are nice and special to them but handwork is much less than Attolini etc. etc.

Caruso SP line is at par with RLPL (i have both and even the styles are similar, RLPL having much more shoulder paddings but the treatment is similar). 

post #588 of 1316
BB Golden Fleece is characterized as "Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category"? And ranked a category above mainline Canali and Zegna? I cannot follow this based on my experience with those brands.
post #589 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexE View Post

BB Golden Fleece is characterized as "Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category"? And ranked a category above mainline Canali and Zegna? I cannot follow this based on my experience with those brands.

Golden Fleece is partially hand made, whereas Canali and Mainline Zegna are machine made; can anybody confirm?
post #590 of 1316
GF has actually been made by several different manufacturers. Isn't it Southwick now? I doubt those have much handwork.
post #591 of 1316
Actually, I still see the Made in Italy (Lardini) ones in store. Southwick probably has an arrangement similar to Caruso where there is a section in the factory for handmade garments. Please correct me if somebody has toured the factory.
post #592 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Golden Fleece is partially hand made, whereas Canali and Mainline Zegna are machine made; can anybody confirm?


I have also looked at many patterned Golden Fleece suits and the pattern matching is disastrous. Even at easy spots like the center rear seam of the suits stripes do not match. Maybe there is some handwork involved, but what does it help if the basics are off.

You also need to take into consideration the quality of the fabrics, which I consider to be by far nicer in case of RTW Canali and especially RTW Zegna compared to the Saxxon fabrics of RTW BB GF.
post #593 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by KObalto View Post

GF has actually been made by several different manufacturers. Isn't it Southwick now? I doubt those have much handwork.

Last time I had a look (at the King of Prussia Mall) the available GF stuff was all Made in USA. On the current website it is both Made in USA and Made in Italy.
post #594 of 1316
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post

I think there's no linear classification... If you look at the handwork, nothing is better than Cesare Attolini. Kiton fabrics are nice and special to them but handwork is much less than Attolini etc. etc.
Caruso SP line is at par with RLPL (i have both and even the styles are similar, RLPL having much more shoulder paddings but the treatment is similar). 

You would kinda expect that because they apparently switched from St andrea to Caruso for RLPL some time back. You are right that you cannot do a linear classification and thats why this thread is attempting to group them and any differentiation within the various groups is just nitpicking as per your example of attolini having better handwork vs kiton's better fabric, but both of them are top tier when it comes to both fabric and handwork which is why they are both in the top ranking group.
post #595 of 1316
Thread Starter 
I don't post in here too often, but if I need to update the opening post (e.g., with newer instructions) I am happy to. Just send me a PM.
post #596 of 1316
Any opinions on the house line for Sid Mashburn?
post #597 of 1316

Where does Caraceni fit in on the list?

post #598 of 1316
Just handled two Kiton suits , fabrics are on par with Caruso or Partenopea. A lot of handwork around lapels collar and armholes. However the jackets are way too long for me (I am 5'11") the cut is ugly (hesitant 2 1/2).Pants have banana shape. Pants are actually nothing special in construction just curtain split waist no handwork that i can see. Overall I would not buy these suits at any price , I 'd rather take machine made Zegna Trofeo than Kiton's hand made awkwardness . Terribly disappointed in Kiton's tailoring.
post #599 of 1316

What kind of physique do you have? 

post #600 of 1316
Richard Anderson is now making RTW. They are a great fit for a normal build, check them out on his website!!
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