The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 35

Correct me if I'm wrong but I've yet to see a fully canvassed Rugby even the Made in Italy one. From what I experience, Rugby Made in Italy is softly constructed fused (Caruso), PRL Made in Italy is half canvassed (Corneliani), RRL is half canvassed (Caruso), RLBL is full canvas (Caruso), RLPL is full canvas (Caruso & St Andrea).

anyone own a made in Japan thom browne suit? How does the quality compare?

Also it seems like bergdorf still stocks RTW Thom Browne made in USA. I wonder if they are better quality than the made in Japan suits.

How well have the fit and quality held up over the years?

Your birthday suit? Oh, wait ... That has made an appearance. My bad.

Where are Gucci suits on this list? Those ones I've seen have been quite nice and fully canvassed.

Where's Paul Stuart? Assuming since made by Samuelsohn, it's just "Good"? A bit low considering the rave reviews for Samuelsohn, eh?

I really think Brooks Brothers fleece is over rated. For the price you can get starting bespoke suits that won't make you look like an FBI agent.

It would fall under Sammy -- I think all suits produced by them are manufactured to the same standard(s). Full canvas, etc. I agree, Samuelsohn should be very good. The construction is on par with suits that cost 3 times as much.

Edited by Frankie22 - 8/5/12 at 7:14pm

Giorgio Armani black label was very nice (tried on a suit today). Any particular reason for the low rating?

+ 1, should be **** , i.e. very good, if going by quality alone. If not going by quality, I think its placing is fair.

It's low rating is due to a lot of people not being interested in Armani from a stylistic perspective. Also one is paying for the brand - you can get an equivalent / better quality suit from numerous other makers for lower cost.

I think a large part of the list involves not only quality, but "what bang you get for your buck".

Bottom line, most here have little or no reason to put Armani anywhere near the top of any list. Quality wise Black label is below the top tier, price wise it is overpriced unless on heavy discount (moot point since other brands can be had at steep discounts as well).

If you are just interested in an Armani branded suit, I reckon Armani Collezioni makes more sense than black label. It is not that far below black label and it is certainly a heck of a lot cheaper!

 

Armani Black Label is half canvassed.

 

Armani Collezioni is mostly fused, with possibly the exceptional half-canvas garment popping up every blue moon. Fabric quality is decent, but noticeably cheaper than that of the mainline garments. Unless an expert is willing to step up and challenge my research on this, my understanding is that all current Collezioni garments are fused. Some of the older Collezioni garments (labeled "Giorgio Armani Le Collezioni" at the time) were half-canvassed, but fusing is now the general rule for this line.

Armani Black Label is half-canvassed? Who makes their suits?

Is Cantarelli Tailor half canvassed or full?

I think it's time, to get this flowing again. Bold are ones I have added. I removed some from Fumma's post--like Thom Browne (shudder) and Lanvin. And, for ease of use, I've made it all alphabetical.

Excellent [*****] (IE: Suits made this well are far and few between; if money is no object, your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items.)

- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- St Andrew

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Belvest
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- (Most of Raffaelle Caruso) Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
- Zegna Couture

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Boglioli
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- K by Canali
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- Samuelsohn

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Cantarelli
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- H. Freemann
- Hackett
- Hickey
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Racing Green
- Suitsupply
- Z-Zegna

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)

- Etro
- Hugo Boss
- J. Press
- Joseph Abboud
- Marco Valentino (half canvassed)

Not sure why Boglioli (fused) is in the same category as Samuelsohn and Corneliani and Zegna Mainline. The fabrics are nice and the fusing is well-done, but it there no canvas. I am demoting it the "Mediocre" category.

I also created an "Avoid" category. I think most here would agree that poorly fused suits are not worthy of your money.

Also of particular note: "hickey" suits are now made in China and fused. I've pinch tested them up close and they are not what they used to be (half canvas).





Excellent [*****] - Suits made this well are far and few between; if money is no object, your closet would be full of these. Full Canvas and tons of handwork)

- Brioni http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/09/brioni-vs-samuelsohn-look-inside.html
- Cifonelli http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/Cifonelli
- Caraceni http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/Caraceni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- D'Avenza http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2011/01/davenza-roma.html
- Isaia
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli
- Sartoria Castangia
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Saint Andrews http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/Saint%20Andrews


Very Good[****] - full canvas and some handwork

- Belvest
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Oxxford http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/05/look-under-hood-oxxford-clothes.html
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale
- Ravazzolo
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso Sartoria Parma
- Ralph Lauren Purple Label (Caruso/Saint Andrews) http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/Purple%20label
- Ralph Lauren Black Label (Caruso)
- Tom Ford http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/Zegna%20Couture
- Zegna Couture http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/search/label/Zegna%20Couture


Good[***] - full canvas and machine made

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (Southwick / Martin Greenfield)
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece (Southwick / Martin Greenfield)
- Canali
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Corneliani
- Dunhill (Zegna mainline)
- Ermenegildo Zegna mainline
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Giorgio Armani "Black Label"
- Hickey Freeman mainline
- Martin Greenfield
- Paul Stuart (Samuelsohn)
- Paul Smith mainline
- Samuelsohn http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/09/brioni-vs-samuelsohn-look-inside.html
- Southwick

Satisfactory [**] - half canvas and machine made

- Brooks Brothers 1818 Collection (Southwick / Lardini)
- Cantarelli
- CC Corneliani Collection
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- H. Freemann
- Hackett
- Hickey Freeman LTD
- Hickey Freeman Sterling
- Hickey Freeman Mahoghany
- Marks and Spencer Pure Wool
- Paul Smith London
- Polo Ralph Lauren (Corneliani - best fabric in class)
- Suit Supply
- J. Press

Mediocre [*] - "good" fusing

- Boglioli
- Calvin Klein Collection (Vestimenta)
- Etro
- Vestimenta
- Z Zegna

---

Avoid - "poor" fusing

- Hickey (now fused; previously half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss
- Joseph Abboud




No Longer Produced

- Ralph Lauren Signature Collection (would be in "Very Good" category)
Edited by jrd617 - 8/17/12 at 6:35am