The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 14

Originally Posted by Vihsadas

Someone should edit the OP so that there's a running list at the top of the forum.

Originally Posted by RJman

Why would we want to have a list that is misleading, incomplete, and impossible to make coherent?

Originally Posted by RJman

Why would we want to have a list that is misleading, incomplete, and impossible to make coherent?

Originally Posted by cmorebusiness

Dagg, this thing started out with such great intentions. It seems like people who enjoy clothing have short attention spans?

Ignoring everything below mediocre, or the guy who's so great they cannot be compared here is the last list I guess.


Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Kiton
- Oxxford
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Borrelli
- RLPL

Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).

- Luciano Barbera
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Isaia
- Caruso Sartoria Parma
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale
- Ravazzolo
- Zegna Couture
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).

- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Samuelsohn
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- RLBL (fully canvassed)

Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
- Cantarelli
- Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- H. Freemann
- Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
- Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre).
-PS Paul Smith (fused)
- Theory (fused)
- Hugo Boss
- Banana Republic Monogram
- Lauren Ralph Lauren

Originally Posted by East Oakland

OK, as much as I think this list is generally a bad idea and is devolving into a joke, it seems it is not going to die and some people are going to rely on it for making future purchasing decisions, so I'll add my two cents.

The major RTW brands here that I have experience with are Isaia, RLBL, Paul Smith Mainline, Paul Smith London, PS Paul Smith, Brooks Brothers 1818, Z-Zegna and Theory. Currently all of these which are listed but Isaia are lumped into the same category, which I don't think is right. The RLBL and Paul Smith Mainline are much nicer than the others. Both are fully canvassed and, on at least the ones I own, the fabric is quite nice. Attention to detail on Paul Smith Mainline and Paul Smith London is very good, particularly in terms of things like plaids and stripes lining up perfectly.

Brooks Brothers 1818 and Z-Zegna are OK, but nothing particularly special--both half canvassed.

The Theory is actually a good beater suit for me. Sad to say, but I get more compliments on it than any other suit I own. It is fused and has tacky machine pick stitching, though. I'd say probably comparable to Hugo Boss.

I don't have much experience with any of the Isaia peers, so I'll just leave that alone.

Accordingly I propose the following changes:

Nonpareil [*****1/2] (i.e. Unmatched so don't add anyone else)
- Savile Row's Paul Jheeta

Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Kiton
- Oxxford
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Borrelli
- RLPL

Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).

- Luciano Barbera
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Isaia
- Caruso Sartoria Parma
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale
- Ravazzolo
- Zegna Couture
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).

- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Samuelsohn
- Paul Smith Mainline (fully canvassed)
- RLBL (fully canvassed)

Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
- Cantarelli
- Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- H. Freemann
- Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
- Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre).
-PS Paul Smith (fused)
- Theory (fused)
- Hugo Boss
- Banana Republic Monogram
- Lauren Ralph Lauren

So-so [7/8 *] (i.e. sometimes mediocre, sometimes bad)
- Land's End
- Hart Schaffner Marx
- Sean John

Below par [6/8 *] (i.e. noticeably lacking in quality, only for doormen)
- Chaps Ralph Lauren
- Haggar Imperial
- Jos A Bank Signature Gold

Displeasing [5/8 *] (i.e. downright offensive to the senses)
- Baroni
- Jos A Bank Signature
- John Bartlett
- Haggar Black Label

For poor people [4/8 *] (i.e. Don't buy unless money is definitely an object)
- Haggar
- Oscar de la Renta
- Nautica
- Jos A Bank Executive
- Evan Picone

Bad [3/8 *] (i.e. Don't buy unless you're on welfare and need to appear in court. May be able to return for refund if you don't remove the sleeve tag)

- Tommy Hilfiger
- Mantoni (sorry Manton)
- Jos A Bank Stays Cool (sometimes 4/8 * if you need help staying cool )
- Cricketeer

Really Bad [2/8 *] (i.e. more bad than Bad but not as bad as Badder than Really Bad)
- Austin Reed
- Polo University Club (if you cut off half the label that says University Club, upgrade to 3/8 *)
- Rocco Siffredi
- Mario Rossi
- British Manor

Badder [1/8 *] (just don't buy it OK?)
- Today's Man
- K&G
- Structure (if you have a time machine to go back to 1992, bump to 3/8 *)
- Alfani

Baddest [ ] (i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for).
- H&M
- Banana Republic
- Calvin Klein
- Tasso Elba

Originally Posted by svelten

Really? H&M at the absolute bottom barrel? Everyone knows they are sub-par for quality, but at the price you are paying (easily sub-$150 at retail) and the generally decent fit you are getting it's hard to imagine how it is a strict "don't-buy" in all situations. I wouldn't wear one even to an entry level job for fear of offending the boss with my ignoble taste, but for a high school kid going to prom it's hard to see how this doesn't beat Men's Wearhouse.

Originally Posted by Fuuma

This is what happens when the nerds who debated who was stronger between Captain America and Spiderman grow up.

Originally Posted by JLibourel

I note that Corneliani is consistently rated above RLBL. I thought Corneliani made RLBL. Is this no longer the case? Some posters say that an outfit called Caruso is now the vendor. Is this correct?

Originally Posted by Bounder

Who knows? 200+ posts and Corneliani isn't on the list at all.

They do have Haggar, though.

Originally Posted by Christofuh

Corneliani is small-timer's Canali anyway.
I'm referring to Canalis from back in the day, not the wooden stuff they pump out nowadays.