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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 99

post #1471 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by highcatcher91 View Post
 

I have a fairly ignorant suit question as I am not very educated in the space. I understand fused, canvassed, half-canvassed etc but beyond that little else. I'm looking to get a basic navy and a basic grey suit and have come across well priced (discounted) Lanvin and SLP pairs. However - from the research I've done it seems mostly what I'm paying for is the name vs quality and craftsmanship. My alternatives here would be the standard suits from Sid Mashburn and Freemans which both seem to have gotten great reviews. As a note all 4 of these would be fully canvassed.

 

So my question here is am I wrong that I'm mostly paying for the name and that the Sid/Freemans suits would be better? Anyone have insight into any of these 4 brands suits? There are some threads on all of these but they are fairly dated. 

I have many Hickey Freeman mainline suits. The newest version has a gold tag and is in the Hamilton fit. Avoid the white label stuff as it's made for outlets. Lanvin is a fashion suit. No experience there.

 

Or did you mean Freeman's Sporting Club suits?

post #1472 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by highcatcher91 View Post

I have a fairly ignorant suit question as I am not very educated in the space. I understand fused, canvassed, half-canvassed etc but beyond that little else. I'm looking to get a basic navy and a basic grey suit and have come across well priced (discounted) Lanvin and SLP pairs. However - from the research I've done it seems mostly what I'm paying for is the name vs quality and craftsmanship. My alternatives here would be the standard suits from Sid Mashburn and Freemans which both seem to have gotten great reviews. As a note all 4 of these would be fully canvassed.

So my question here is am I wrong that I'm mostly paying for the name and that the Sid/Freemans suits would be better? Anyone have insight into any of these 4 brands suits? There are some threads on all of these but they are fairly dated. 

Lanvin suits were made by Caruso last time I checked, and are beautiful suits. Great value at deep discounts.
SLP never tried one. I'd guess complete fashion suit with most of price attributes to brand.
post #1473 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post


Lanvin suits were made by Caruso last time I checked, and are beautiful suits. Great value at deep discounts.
SLP never tried one. I'd guess complete fashion suit with most of price attributes to brand.

Thanks for the insight - do you know if Caruso makes their $1500-2000 "Attitude" suits?

post #1474 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post
 

I have many Hickey Freeman mainline suits. The newest version has a gold tag and is in the Hamilton fit. Avoid the white label stuff as it's made for outlets. Lanvin is a fashion suit. No experience there.

 

Or did you mean Freeman's Sporting Club suits?

Sorry should have been more clear - I meant Freeman's Sporting Club

post #1475 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by highcatcher91 View Post

Thanks for the insight - do you know if Caruso makes their $1500-2000 "Attitude" suits?

I know nothing of Attitude suits. But, if this is the full retail price, probably no. I read somewhere there are some Lanvin suits made in Canada (might be Samuelsohn, Copley....who knows...) but keep in mind that best of the best Canadian Samuelsohn suit can be bought for not more then $1200. These would be full canvas, mostly machine made by unionized workers in Quebec.

Now, what you pay for with Lanvin is styling, I guess.
post #1476 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by highcatcher91 View Post
 

Sorry should have been more clear - I meant Freeman's Sporting Club

No idea who who makes FSC suits. Martin Greenfield? You know I would recommend just going on eBay and grabbing a NWT Canali or something similar. NMWA alone has great videos on how to get your exact measurements. Why agonize over a local purchase where there is plenty of great stuff out there?

 

That said, staple-stuff can be hard to find in common sizes sometimes.

post #1477 of 1519

Spoke with an SA at Sid Mashburn and their suits are made by Caruso so giving it a shot @ $1250.

post #1478 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by highcatcher91 View Post

Spoke with an SA at Sid Mashburn and their suits are made by Caruso so giving it a shot @ $1250.

Good luck! I have a few sport coats from Barneys that are Caruso and I love them!
post #1479 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by classicman View Post

I went talked to LP folks and they mentioned their RTW jackets are all half canvassed. I was surprised that at its price point LP will be selling half canvassed stuff.

Only when you do custom clothing with them, then its full canvassed construction. I have to think over before investing in this and what is worst is that LP does not go on sale.

In fact I just got my first ever Belvest RTW jacket and its lovely.

LP do go on sale although maybe you are referring to US only. I'm on holiday in Milan right now and LP, Kiton, Lardini, Pal Zileri, Canali, Zenga, Cornelliani and Brioni are all on sale.

Picked up a wonderful Lardini suit at a frankly scandalous price yesterday. Wonderful fit. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #1480 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic81Fox View Post

LP do go on sale although maybe you are referring to US only. I'm on holiday in Milan right now and LP, Kiton, Lardini, Pal Zileri, Canali, Zenga, Cornelliani and Brioni are all on sale.

Picked up a wonderful Lardini suit at a frankly scandalous price yesterday. Wonderful fit. icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Care to share where you picked up the suit? I may be in the area soon. Thanks.
post #1481 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyan View Post

Care to share where you picked up the suit? I may be in the area soon. Thanks.
Sure. I bought it in the Lardini store in Sarravale. All of the brands I mentioned are there and with the sale on at the moment the prices were fantastic.
post #1482 of 1519
It's been awhile since anyone made an update, so I'm reposting the list for convenience. I'd like to know where the best values are in each category. I know it may boil down to a matter of personal opinion, but I'm curious to know what everyone's thoughts are.



Excellent [*****]

- Oxxford

- Brioni

- Cesare Attolini

- Caraceni

- Kiton

- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale

- Luigi Borrelli

- Sartoria Castangia

- St Andrews / Santandrea
Old RLPL (now made by Caruso)

- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana

- Zegna Couture
Tom Ford

- Sartoria Formosa

-RLPL
Chester Barrie





Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)


- Battistoni

- D'Avenza

- Isaia

- Sartoria Partenopea

- Oxxford (1220)

- Belvest mainline

- Borrelli Luxury Vintage

- Canali Milano

- Corneliani Linea Sartoria

- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)

- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Attolini Napoli

- Raffaelle Caruso Sartoria Parma
Current RLPL

- Sartorio

- Stile Latino







Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)


- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)

- Canali mainline

- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics than mainline)

- Cantarelli mainline

- Corneliani mainline

- Ermenegildo Zegna mainline
Dunhill (more classical cut)
Gucci (usually "fashion forward" - tread carefully)
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche (usually "fashion forward" - tread carefully)

- Faconnable Tailleur

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, FSC
House label on Gilt
Freeman's Sporting Club

- Hickey Freeman mainline

- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Pal Zileri mainline

- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)

- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
RLBL
Ma.Co.
Adriano and Sons (defunct, but some inventory floating)

- Samuelsohn
Paul Stuart (nice fabrics, good value)

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)

- Scuderi

- Ring Jacket

-Suit Supply red line La Spalla and Jort lines (fully canvassed)

-Trussini (Fully canvassed, premium fabrics)





Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)

- Burberry Prorsum

- Cantarelli Tailor

- Charles Tyrwhitt

- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed; excellent fabrics on par with Corneliani mainline, if not better; also seems to be better quality sewing and linings than CC Corneliani)

- Coppley (half canvassed)

- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)

- H. Freemann

- Hackett (half canvassed)

- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics

- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)

- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)

- Lardini (half canvassed)

- L.B.M. 1911

- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)

- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)

- Piombo

- Suit Supply (half canvassed)

- Valentino (half canvassed)

- Prada (half canvassed)

- Peter Millar

- Tagliatore







Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)

- Tombolini (fused, but excellent fabrics and Neapolitan styling - "poor man's Isaia")

- J Crew Ludlow (fused)

- Armani Exchange

- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Dolce & Gabbana

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)

- hickey (spelled with a lowercase "h" - now fused and made in China)

- Hugo Boss (fused)

- Joseph Abboud

- Pal Zileri Lab

- Versace Collection

- Z Zegna

- Armani Collezioni (fused)
post #1483 of 1519

I posted a few notes after the makers I've purchased over the last 10 years or so. Trusted eBay vendors like topshelfapparel, Frieschskys and Sartoriale to name a few are valuable resources. SF B&S is great as well. Looking at your question on "value" from pricing angle rather than the usual construction, fit, fabric angle)

 

Excellent [*****]

- Oxxford (extremely pricey. Good deals on them on eBay at topshelfapparel. I have one Oxxford suit, a navy blazer, two sport coats and pants all NWT at 75-80% off retail)

- Brioni (one linen sport coat from Frieschskys on eBay, again about 80% off retail. Also have a boat load of Brioni ties NWY from eBay. Make offers and you can get great deals)

- Cesare Attolini

- Caraceni

- Kiton 

- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale

- Luigi Borrelli

- Sartoria Castangia (I believe they make for Battistoni, check Barneys New York and their Warehouse. Good deals to be found)

- St Andrews / Santandrea (picked up a NWT NOS suit hand tailored at Styleforun B&S)
Old RLPL (now made by Caruso)

- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana

- Zegna Couture
Tom Ford

- Sartoria Formosa (starting to show up on eBay now)

-RLPL (RL just streamlined their suit offerings, lots of deals out there now on eBay, SF B&S and stores)
Chester Barrie





Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)


- Battistoni (got a cashmere sport coat at Frieschskys on eBay. Made for Barneys. Also check Barneys Warehouse. Great deals at end of season as they just want to dump merchandise and take tax write-off).

- D'Avenza

- Isaia  (got an amazing linen sport coat from topselfapparel)

- Sartoria Partenopea (I heard they went out fo business. Lots of their stuff showing up on eBay and SF B&S!)

- Oxxford (1220) My tailor gave the scoop on this straight from their sales rep. Oxxford aimed for younger market but misfired. Older clientele only wanted HQ line apparently. Not that it’s poor quality, jump on it on eBay)

- Belvest mainline (topshelfapparel and Frieschskys on eBay has great deals on this stuff)

- Borrelli Luxury Vintage

- Canali Milano

- Corneliani Linea Sartoria

- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)

- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Attolini Napoli

- Raffaelle Caruso Sartoria Parma (barneys house band is or was mostly Caruso. I have two excellent sport coats from them)
Current RLPL

- Sartorio (picked up a cashmere overcoat from topsehelfapparel at 75% off retail. Now on Barneys Warehouse site when available. Sartoriale on eBay also gets them sometimes. Picked up an unlined navy suit at 80% off retail from them!)

- Stile Latino







Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)


- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (this stuff is all over eBay now that BB discontinued it. Suits are good quality but awful cuts, other stuff is quite nice IMHO. Still some deals on BB website)

- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece (great stuff but overpriced. Can get deals at regular BB sales)

- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)

- Canali mainline (I have two, one from Barneys, one from Nordstrom. Check Nordstrom Rack and once in a while you can stumble on a Canal suit or sport coat)

- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics than mainline) (got one from Barneys at end of season sale, only 50% off but too stunning to pass up)

- Cantarelli mainline

- Corneliani mainline (Saks 5th Ave carries them so check Off Fifth regularly)

- Ermenegildo Zegna mainline (my favorite maker. Have three suits and five sport coats all from my fav eBay vendors mentioned above. Zegna can do no wrong in my opinion)
Dunhill (more classical cut)
Gucci (usually "fashion forward" - tread carefully)
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche (usually "fashion forward" - tread carefully)

- Faconnable Tailleur

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, FSC (I hear their quality has suffered a lot lately. Lots of greenfield fetishist here on SF apparently. Prickly lot)
House label on Gilt
Freeman's Sporting Club

- Hickey Freeman mainline (great deals to be had at their online sales and at Nordstrom Rack. Avoid the white label made-for-outlet garbage)

- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Pal Zileri mainline (now carried by Sakes, haven’t seen at Off Fifth yet)

- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)

- Raffaelle Caruso mainline (RLBL now discontinued, excellent deals out there although RL stores/website now basically sold out. Picked up the $1900 Anthony Gray Sharkskin for $539 at local store before they all sold)
RLBL
Ma.Co.
Adriano and Sons (defunct, but some inventory floating)

- Samuelsohn (lots on eBay, got one at Saks at seasonal sale only 40% off, though)
Paul Stuart (nice fabrics, good value)

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)

- Scuderi

- Ring Jacket

-Suit Supply red line La Spalla and Jort lines (fully canvassed)

-Trussini (Fully canvassed, premium fabrics)





Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed) (good deals on eBay and such, regular Brooks sales make retail shopping there idiotic)

- Burberry Prorsum

- Cantarelli Tailor

- Charles Tyrwhitt

- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed; excellent fabrics on par with Corneliani mainline, if not better; also seems to be better quality sewing and linings than CC Corneliani)

- Coppley (half canvassed)

- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)

- H. Freemann

- Hackett (half canvassed)

- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics

- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)

- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)

- Lardini (half canvassed)

- L.B.M. 1911

- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)

- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)

- Piombo

- Suit Supply (half canvassed)

- Valentino (half canvassed)

- Prada (half canvassed)

- Peter Millar

- Tagliatore







Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)

- Tombolini (fused, but excellent fabrics and Neapolitan styling - "poor man's Isaia")

- J Crew Ludlow (fused)

- Armani Exchange

- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Dolce & Gabbana

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)

- hickey (spelled with a lowercase "h" - now fused and made in China)

- Hugo Boss (fused)

- Joseph Abboud

- Pal Zileri Lab

- Versace Collection

- Z Zegna

- Armani Collezioni 

post #1484 of 1519
Quote:


- Sartoria Partenopea (I heard they went out fo business. )

i'm sorry to hear that:(  anyone can confirm?

post #1485 of 1519

I have a D'Avenza 100% wool gray glen plaid.

I got it off ebay 

 

Was skeptical at first but I can say now that it is amazing. Full Canvas, nice handiwork. Pick stitching. Drapes very elegantly. Moves well with the body. Fabric very great quality. It's not a Kiton but it's much cheaper and it's definitely better than what you'll be abl to get with $400 elsewhere imo. They're around $400-500 on ebay new with tag.

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