or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 98

post #1456 of 1494

I've owned a bunch of Loro Piana. 

 

The suits I've owned have been made by: 

 

Caruso 

Isaia 

St. Andrews 

 

The latest stuff has been from St. Andrews. 

post #1457 of 1494

I went talked to LP folks and they mentioned their RTW jackets are all half canvassed. I was surprised that at its price point LP will be selling half canvassed stuff.

 

Only when you do custom clothing with them, then its full canvassed construction. I have to think over before investing in this and what is worst is that LP does not go on sale.

 

In fact I just got my first ever Belvest RTW jacket and its lovely.

post #1458 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by classicman View Post

I went talked to LP folks and they mentioned their RTW jackets are all half canvassed. I was surprised that at its price point LP will be selling half canvassed stuff.

Only when you do custom clothing with them, then its full canvassed construction. I have to think over before investing in this and what is worst is that LP does not go on sale.

In fact I just got my first ever Belvest RTW jacket and its lovely.

Kind of like Brunello Cucinelli - beautiful fabrics but half canvassed... such a waste and still so astronomically expensive.
post #1459 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by classicman View Post

In fact I just got my first ever Belvest RTW jacket and its lovely.

Belfast gets a bad rep on this forum and i'll never know why.
post #1460 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post


Belfast gets a bad rep on this forum and i'll never know why.

I hear it's a nice city. Hopefully Brexit won't bring a return of the "Troubles." Oh, wait, Belvest...  :crackup:

post #1461 of 1494

I know for a fact that many (if not all) of Loro Piana's sport coats (and perhaps suits) are made in Naples by G.abo. They do offer a fully handmade product, but I expect that Loro Piana is using the "Hand finished" half canvas construction for most of their stuff.

 

I think G.abo is very good at the price point, but Loro Piana prices are extremely excessive for that quality. 

post #1462 of 1494

^Current suits are made by St. Andrews, but I think they have different lines. Their "Business" suit line (which has pretty much been untouched in as far as style goes for the past 20 years) is very plain and business-formal looking. They also seem to offer very lightweight and casual looking suits, which could very well may be made by G.abo, haven't checked out those. 

 

It should also be noted that LP jackets are incredibly light-weight, often unlined and with minimal construction. The closest I've tried was Belvest jacket in a box, and some Lardini that felt like a PJ/shirt. 

 

LP has much, much nicer fabrics(finest cashmeres, minks, vicuna, and other exotic blends), and more handwork. But I agree, at the prices they're asking, you're paying a huge premium for the brand name and the fabric. 

 

But then again, it's a luxury brand, almost exclusively focusing on high $$$ clients. 


Edited by dreamspace - 7/6/16 at 9:53pm
post #1463 of 1494

Also, interesting observation for the geeks, Loro Piana and Paul Stuart (Stuart's Choice) used the same manufacturers for their suits during the same time periods. Caruso -> Isaia -> St. Andrews 

 

So if you find any of those tags in either a Loro Piana or Stuart's Choice suit/jacket, you can assume the age: 

 

Caruso tag: early-mid 00's 

Isaia: Late 00's 

St. Andrews: The past 5 years or so.

 

On a completely different note: I found a RLBL suit which was made by Cantarelli. I knew RLPL was made by Cantarelli a short time, but never heard or RLBL. Must've been from the year they launched RLBL.

post #1464 of 1494

Lightest full canvassed jacket I have tried is made by Kiton (Lasa model). My newest (and first) Belvest jacket is extremely light (and unlined) as well. No doubt LP Cashmere, Baby Cashmere and other blends are top notch

 

Here are jackets from LP: (Check out their price points).

 

https://www.loropiana.com/en/eshop/men/jackets

 

Plus there is no indication of handwork in description except for one jacket which is labelled handmade. On contrary, it proudly mentions AMF stitching on the jacket. The fact that they can't even do pick stitching by hands leaves little to doubt that there should be anything more than a little handwork to be expected in these exorbitantly priced items. If anyone knows and can show otherwise I am happy to listen and correct myself.

 

Let me know what specifically is hand made about LP RTW jacket in terms of:

 

  • Pattern cutting
  • Fabric cutting
  • Matching Fabric with pattern
  • Assembling Canvass
  • Marking Pockets, button holes etc
  • Chest Pocket construction
  • Collar construction
  • Flap pocket construction
  • Armhole construction and inner lining stitching
  • Attaching Collar to jacket
  • Attaching Canvass to Fabric
  • Inside Lining/Sleeve Lining stitching
  • Making of Jacket and Sleeve Button holes
  • Application of Buttons to holes
  • Pick Stitching
  • Pressing at various stages of construction

 

 

For Kiton hand construction watch this video from 3:30 to 8 mins:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJipzpX1cWQ


Edited by classicman - 7/6/16 at 11:37pm
post #1465 of 1494

Here are two articles going through St. Andrews construction: 

 

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.no/2010/01/saint-andrews.html

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.no/2012/02/ralph-lauren-purple-label.html

 

 

Again, LP almost is pricing their stuff almost exclusively on the fabric used. You can get a "normal" LP jacket for around $3000, while a Kiton will easily cost between $6000-$8000, brand new in stores. 

 

 

I have a friend that actually works at Loro Piana, so I'll ask him for the details on the jackets. But from what I've understood: A good part of the clients there don't really care about the nitpicky details, like we do over here. They are loaded, and can spend $5k on a sport coat in the same way us regulars drop $200 on a SC during sales season. Hell, a lot of them don't even do the shopping themselves, they have personal shoppers that pick up a batch of clothes for them. 

 

 

Not that it's an excuse for selling lower quality garment at a premium price, but that's how it works in the luxe industries. 50% is quality / 50% is exclusivity. Why change something that works, when 95% of your regular clients are happy. 

 

Same goes for Bijan, Zilli, Stefano Ricci, etc. It's high fashion for the extremely wealthy. That's why I prefer "small" fashion houses like Attolini, etc. At least there you know that most of the billed money goes directly into man hours and fabrics, with much smaller overheads. 

post #1466 of 1494
Was the question about Dunhill from about 50-100 posts ago ever resolved? I saw a suit of theirs I liked that said Made in Spain and I was wondering about the quality and maker.
post #1467 of 1494

Hello,

 

I was perusing the Nordstrom anniversary sale and am curious if any of these options in the sub $1000 price point are of decent quality in your opinion:

 

Z Zegna "Drop 7" @ $970 US - I found several comments about fusing in this thread and mixed feedback in general

 

SamuelSohn "Beckett" @ $870

 

Boss "Huge/Genius" @ $600-670

 

David Donahue "Ryan" @ $600

 

Boss "Johnston/Lenon" @ $600

 

Peter Millar "Flynn" @ $540

 

Ted Baker "London/Jay" @ $540

 

Any winners here?  Thanks for your feedback

post #1468 of 1494

That's their low-end stuff. Lots of it at Nordstrom Rack as well. Nordstrom carries Canali and Hickey Freeman Mainline (yellow label). Likely some good end-of-season deals on those. Z Zegna is their Made in Mexico stuff. Not sure about the Samuelsohn. Some of their stuff is excellent but no idea where Beckett fits.


Edited by smittycl - 7/26/16 at 10:16am
post #1469 of 1494

Instyler,

 

If you are willing to go in $1200 - $1600 range you may find ISAIA and E Zegna at Saks/NM on sale (@ 60%-70% off ). Actually mid June to beginning of July is the best time since prices are lowest and there are more chances you will find your size.

post #1470 of 1494

I have a fairly ignorant suit question as I am not very educated in the space. I understand fused, canvassed, half-canvassed etc but beyond that little else. I'm looking to get a basic navy and a basic grey suit and have come across well priced (discounted) Lanvin and SLP pairs. However - from the research I've done it seems mostly what I'm paying for is the name vs quality and craftsmanship. My alternatives here would be the standard suits from Sid Mashburn and Freemans which both seem to have gotten great reviews. As a note all 4 of these would be fully canvassed.

 

So my question here is am I wrong that I'm mostly paying for the name and that the Sid/Freemans suits would be better? Anyone have insight into any of these 4 brands suits? There are some threads on all of these but they are fairly dated. 

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)