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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 95

post #1411 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by simple80t View Post

Hi Gyasih,

I don't think anyone really answered your question, so please allow me to help.


They produce a lot of sport coats for their own brands and others, such as Ledbury, along with a very successful MTM business that they have with many local retailers and stores like epauletNY. The quality is generally very good for the money and much of their RTW is either half-canvas or unstructured. While I've switched to bespoke for my tailored clothing, I've enjoyed my pieces from L.B.M. 1911, Lubiam, and Luigi Bianchi Mantova. They've held up nicely with regular wear and care.


I still see the occasional jacket or coat that really catches my eye. It's good stuff at a fair price.

D'Avenza, Isaiah, and all the other stuff recently mentioned is, at its best, top tier. If you find a good piece at a good price, jump on it, but don't buy something you don't love just because of the name. If it looks good on you, fits well, and is decently constructed of fine cloth, it will serve you very well.

Thank you for the response. I am not only about brand, I prefer fit and function, over name. It just so happens that majority of my suits are Eidos, Isaia, and RLBL.
post #1412 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Thank you for the response. I am not only about brand, I prefer fit and function, over name. It just so happens that majority of my suits are Eidos, Isaia, and RLBL.

Eidos/Isaia is like the opposite spectrum of RLBL in terms of fit (shoulder), do you prefer RLBL for suit and Eidos/Isaia for sports coat?

Just asking out of curiousity
post #1413 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Oh, Oxxford is nice, so underrated despite their carefully constructed canvas and sewing. One of the few makers who have narrower shoulders: most size 38 jackets have shoulders of 18 or 18.5 inches, but Oxx has 17.5 and this makes all the difference.

Any idea how many fit does Oxxford has? I tried a few years back (like 5+) and didn't like how it fit then (it fits right, but really blend), probably should try out again, but just want to know some info before I walk in.
post #1414 of 1494
clee: Oxxford has at least 7 cuts, but their retailers choose the models individually. The only way you'll see the full range in person is to visit their New York store or Chicago factory. Mind you, most of their lapels are ugly and nearly all jackets have flap pockets with single vents, but I've seen some superb MTM/MTO/bespoke pieces and samples or individual makeups for specialty stores. They don't export, so men outside America don't really know Oxx.
post #1415 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Eidos/Isaia is like the opposite spectrum of RLBL in terms of fit (shoulder), do you prefer RLBL for suit and Eidos/Isaia for sports coat?

Just asking out of curiousity

I prefer Eidos/Isaia, but my RLBL suits came at such a great deal.
post #1416 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

clee: Oxxford has at least 7 cuts, but their retailers choose the models individually. The only way you'll see the full range in person is to visit their New York store or Chicago factory. Mind you, most of their lapels are ugly and nearly all jackets have flap pockets with single vents, but I've seen some superb MTM/MTO/bespoke pieces and samples or individual makeups for specialty stores. They don't export, so men outside America don't really know Oxx.
7 I was expecting like 3 haha, good to know guess I'll give it a try some time
post #1417 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

I prefer Eidos/Isaia, but my RLBL suits came at such a great deal.

Kind the opposite for me, Eidos (at least Tipo) doesn't really work for me, RLBL fits me better all around (and Paul Stuart PC). Guess just down to body type and preference
post #1418 of 1494
I have two Oxxford suits, one blazer and one sport coat. All have side vents and are the HQ level. Their 1220 line was apparently a huge misfire. Check out topshelfapparel on eBay. He has lots of Oxxford with professional pics and descriptions. I think most of my stuff is the Capitol line.

I'm usually a 42L in Canali, Zegna, HF and Brooks. I can get away with 40L in Oxxford even in their slim fit stuff it seems. Amazing quality. Not sure what you meant about the lapels?

RLBL in 42L works for me as does Phineas Cole. I have two of those but don't wear them regularly.
Edited by smittycl - 2/25/16 at 6:57am
post #1419 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

clee: Oxxford has at least 7 cuts, but their retailers choose the models individually. The only way you'll see the full range in person is to visit their New York store or Chicago factory. Mind you, most of their lapels are ugly and nearly all jackets have flap pockets with single vents, but I've seen some superb MTM/MTO/bespoke pieces and samples or individual makeups for specialty stores. They don't export, so men outside America don't really know Oxx.

I have two Oxxford sport coats from eBay that I love - one navy hopsack and one cashmere bespoke (for someone else). Oxxford must be some of the best (if not the best) value for money on eBay, since the jackets tend to be fairly traditionally cut (i.e. not trendy) and, as VRaivio mentioned, they're not that well known outside of the US. Or, frankly, within the general American young urban professional population - no one I've talked to my age has ever heard of them.
post #1420 of 1494
Oxxford is rated, along with Adrian Jules in Rochester, as the two best suit makers in the US. Both are very old school traditional with tons of handwork. My tailor offers MTM through both of them. Oxxford is out of my price range but Jules is not. Never heard anyone on SF mention them, though.

https://www.prlog.org/10662050-americas-best-bespoke-clothing-maker-is-so-anonymous-its-called-americas-best-worn-secret.html
Edited by smittycl - 2/25/16 at 3:42pm
post #1421 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post

I have two Oxxford suits, one blazer and one sport coat. All have side vents and are the HQ level. Their 1220 line was apparently a huge misfire. Check out topshelfapparel on eBay. He has lots of Oxxford with professional pics and descriptions. I think most of my stuff is the Capitol line.

I'm usually a 42L in Canali, Zegna, HF and Brooks. I can get away with 40L in Oxxford even in their slim fit stuff it seems. Amazing quality. Not sure what you meant about the lapels?

RLBL in 42L works for me as does Phineas Cole. I have two of those but don't wear them regularly.

Smitty if yo find yourself fitting a 42R in RLBL, I got some good deals spam[1].gif
post #1422 of 1494
Unfortunately I wear 42L in RLBL but thanks!
post #1423 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post

Oxxford is rated, along with Adrian Jules in Rochester, as the two best suit makers in the US. Both are very old school traditional with tons of handwork. My tailor offers MTM through both of them. Oxxford is out of my price range but Jules is not. Never heard anyone on SF mention them, though.

https://www.prlog.org/10662050-americas-best-bespoke-clothing-maker-is-so-anonymous-its-called-americas-best-worn-secret.html

Why do you rate AJ higher than Martin Greenfield MTM?
post #1424 of 1494

The Oxxford 1220 model is BY FAR the nicest looking American cut I've ever seen, at leas OTR. If you enjoy the typical soft shoulders/wider lapels/high armholes/high gorge/etc. features that Kiton, Attolini, and the other usual suspects offer, you'll probably enjoy the 1220 immensely. 

post #1425 of 1494

I'm not. I have no experience with Greenfield other than reading that their quality seems to have suffered lately. Didn't they make BB Golden Fleece at one point but they had quality issues?


Edited by smittycl - 2/26/16 at 4:59am
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