or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 94

post #1396 of 1519

Tincati is also one other brand that is first tier. The ones I've seen and owned have been made by Kiton, Attolini, D'Avenza, I think St. Andrews too. 

My Attolini x Tincati is 100% identical to the same model by Cesare Attolini house brand, and both are priced almost identically too. 

 

Paul Stuart - Stuart's Choice is/has been made by Isaia, St. Andrews. Excellent stuff, but a bit expensive brand new, considering that you could go to the brands (Isaia, SA) directly and save some cash. 

 

I've owned a truckload of St. Andrews, and the quality has been consistently very good. But with that said, what you pay varies A LOT. My experience is honestly that you get the same St. Andrews suit, whether you pay $3K under brand X, or $5K under brand Y. Same goes for Belvest. 

post #1397 of 1519

Update for Brioni

 

Guys Brioni has a new model starting this season. It is called Madison fit. It's suppose to be their slimmest body jacket and trouser and it replaces Gaetano model going forward. It has a higher arm hole and lower button stance relative to Gaetano. The jacket is 3/4" inch or 1 inch shorter than Brunico. I tried the same size as I would in Brunico which is 40R, the armhole was too tight for me and jacket length seem to be shorter than what I prefer. The pants had a perfect trim from knees downwards however, they were too tight around my thighs. May be I should have tried a size up (42R). Anyways if anyone of you visit Brioni boutique please try it and give your feedback.

 

I know for sure that Brioni Las Vegas and Beverly hills store carries this model.

post #1398 of 1519
Where would LUIGI BIANCHI Mantova rate?
post #1399 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Where would LUIGI BIANCHI Mantova rate?

Probably not very high. Similar to Lardini, Boglioli, etc. Most of their RTW are fused (or completely unstructured and unlined), and a few comes half-canvassed, not sure about their MTM stuff.
post #1400 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Where would LUIGI BIANCHI Mantova rate?

I've handled a Luigi Bianchi Mantova sport coat, both workmanship and material were very average -- definitely below Lardini.
post #1401 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by JensenH View Post

I've handled a Luigi Bianchi Mantova sport coat, both workmanship and material were very average -- definitely below Lardini.

+1 my LBM suit is fused. No canvassing that I can discern. The fabric is excellent though.
post #1402 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDeKelver View Post
 

I've looked at Yoox, but the details are not there, plus you cannot get any customer service to measure or give me codes on a suit before you buy it. 

 

I like Ebay sellers 'Frieshskys' and 'topshelfapparel'.  Get to know one or two brands.  I know all of the Canali codes and bodies and know what I'm getting.  Isaia should be easy to follow too.  There are a bunch of 19 and 14 series Canali suits out now, which are the drop 8 bodies.  19 is extra slim. 

No experience with Frieshsyks but I have used topshelfapparel a couple of times and he has awesome selection, prices and quality.  Great to deal with and fast on the shipping.  This thread got me interested in D'Avenza and Belvest.  The D'Avenza's sportcoats I bought from topshelfapparel are awesome and Belvest is in the mail.  I am no expert but hands down the nicest jackets I have ever owned.

 

I would not buy a sportcoat from Yoox unless you know the brand like the back of your hand.  Yoox gives you total length only and topshelfapparel gives you total length, chest, shoulder and sleeve length measurements.  I tip my hat to the really good ebay sellers that give you multiple measurements!  Fit is just too important to be crossing your fingers when you are buying in the hope it fits.

 

Regards,

Mark

post #1403 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by Markboots View Post
 
 

 This thread got me interested in D'Avenza and Belvest.  The D'Avenza's sportcoats I bought from topshelfapparel are awesome and Belvest is in the mail.  I am no expert but hands down the nicest jackets I have ever owned.

 

Mark

though don't have many experience with D'avenza, i'm a big fan of it, and i believe at least some of their garments are belong to Excellent tier.

 

for example,i once see amazing finishing on a jacket that used hand stitch to reinforce the pocket (not D ring, but like the stitch you can find on ties).and i like the fabric they chose for their jackets ( no suit experience yet).

 

and FYI,here is an interview about D'avenza,very informative

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2015/04/interview-jonathan-clay-and-the-story-of-italian-suit-manufacture.html

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2015/05/the-1-6-suit-rating-system.html

post #1404 of 1519

I've used both Frieschkey's and topshelfapparel for years with great success. Just scored an amazing Oxxford suit from tsa and a Kiton scarf from Frieschkey's. I trust them both.


Edited by smittycl - 2/5/16 at 9:20am
post #1405 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post
 

I've used both Frieschkey's and topshelfapparel for years with great success. Just scored and amazing Oxxford suit from tsa and a Kiton scarf from Frieschkey's. I trust them both.

I was looking at a few of those.  Did you go "Highest Quality"?  I have given up on the suit look.  Just going with the sport coat and separate pants.  Not that I am looking for sympathy but depending on the brand I am usually a drop 10 so it is very difficult to find something that fits on eBay.   I don't want to get a lot of tailoring to the pants and potentially walk away dissatisfied.  Yes, I could go MTM or Bespoke but I am just not looking to drop that much money and there is still a risk I would be dissatisfied.  The only thing I want done to pants is a hem.

 

Of the 5 sport coat the Belvest requires no tailoring and 2 of the 4 D'Avenza sport coats only needed 2 sleeve shortening.  Doesn't get much better than that!

 

My job doesn't require a suit or even a tie for that matter so the combo works for me.

post #1406 of 1519

I went Oxford Highest Quality on a navy suit and also a blazer. Superb quality. Also got a pair of gray dress pants. Missed out on the linen/wool/silk sport coat though. I have to wear a suit daily and appreciate the craftsmanship of Oxxford (as well as topshelfapparel's prices).

post #1407 of 1519

Amusingly the Oxxford HQ Linen/Silk/Cashmere blend sport came back. Buyer must have returned it. Just pounced!Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2


Edited by smittycl - 2/23/16 at 12:04pm
post #1408 of 1519
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post
 

Amusingly the Oxxford HQ Linen/Silk/Cashmere blend sport came back. buyer must have returned it. Just pounced!Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2


Looks good.  Maybe posting on here that you missed out, the other buyer thought he would be kind and give you another chance......  I like it, good choice!

post #1409 of 1519
Oh, Oxxford is nice, so underrated despite their carefully constructed canvas and sewing. One of the few makers who have narrower shoulders: most size 38 jackets have shoulders of 18 or 18.5 inches, but Oxx has 17.5 and this makes all the difference.
post #1410 of 1519

Hi Gyasih,

 

I don't think anyone really answered your question, so please allow me to help.

They produce a lot of sport coats for their own brands and others, such as Ledbury, along with a very successful MTM business that they have with many local retailers and stores like epauletNY. The quality is generally very good for the money and much of their RTW is either half-canvas or unstructured. While I've switched to bespoke for my tailored clothing, I've enjoyed my pieces from L.B.M. 1911, Lubiam, and Luigi Bianchi Mantova. They've held up nicely with regular wear and care.

I still see the occasional jacket or coat that really catches my eye. It's good stuff at a fair price.

 

D'Avenza, Isaiah, and all the other stuff recently mentioned is, at its best, top tier. If you find a good piece at a good price, jump on it, but don't buy something you don't love just because of the name. If it looks good on you, fits well, and is decently constructed of fine cloth, it will serve you very well.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)