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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 93

post #1381 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Hum guess they have different range or my memory is simply wrong...
This more fun three piece was 5200 I believe. I also tried a khaki that was 3500

post #1382 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Hum guess they have different range or my memory is simply wrong...

Nope just one range. Price depends on fabric like most other brands but their starting price was 3200 (2 piece) before sales tax etc. But to be fair their average price is about 5k USD. Dunhill i haven't checked in a while but if i remember correctly it was in the 2-3k range
post #1383 of 1494
Ok that's probably why i felt it has always been around $5k lately
post #1384 of 1494

I have two Made in Italy suits by Gieves and Hawkes, one is made by St. Andrews, the other by Caruso. Both are excellent suits. Almost identical to my RLPL suits made by both makers...the SA made G&H actually has more handwork than my SA made RLPL. 

post #1385 of 1494
How much? MalfordOfLindon have a few G&H suit but can't tell by whom, though I assume lower msrp is Caruso?
post #1386 of 1494

It's hard to tell what line those suits are. If they're made in Italy, it could be by Lardini. I know some of their stuff is made in Mauritius too. 

 

Their Caruso (and previously SA) retails around £1500-£2200. I think they have one line that's even higher up, Made in England (Not their bespoke  stuff, but RTW. Maybe done in house too?) 

post #1387 of 1494

The J Crew Ludlow are actually half canvassed. I`n not sure if that alone is enough to get them out of the mediocre category. Not to sure what kind of material quality they use.

post #1388 of 1494

are they the same quality?

Thanks!

post #1389 of 1494
Yep, they are of the same quality, however not the same styling. The bottom label is a bit older-meaning it will have beefier shoulders and the lapel notch placement will be lower, button stance may be lower, and the lapel width may also be different. Out side of those issue, they are both fantastic.


ALSO...
to add/confirm another label on here.

I just bought a new suit from

MP Massimo Di Piombo-
IS made by Kiton, it is full canvassed and has quite a bit of handwork. The suit I got also has button fly, 1/4 lined and the fabric is mind blowing. The cut is slim and I mean Italian slim.

IS NOT made to Kiton Standards-the button holes are no where near what a Kiton has, no stem holder, lapels are a bit different than the super high notch and super wide-these are more narrow and do not "swell" like most of the Neapolitan top end makers. Pick stitching is not as amazing, but still by hand. Pants do not have nearly as much handwork (the waist is not sewn in by hand, most of the sewing is by machine).

I would put this above say a Caruso suit, in the ball park of say an Isaia with far less obvious embellishment (crazy messy hand sewing and contrasting thread colors), this is fairly conservative in styling-thats what I wanted. The pants are slim but not skinny, the cut of the jacket is slim as well, the shoulders are nearly unpadded, the sewing is impeccable. The sleeves are prepared for functional buttons and have the button holes already sewn. The chest pocket is a very nice arc and the lapels are middle of the road in width, no swells, and not nearly as wide at the notch point as what one would expect from Kiton or Naples. The construction is A+ and the pants have all the bells and whistles (pleated curtain, button fly, hidden french fly with the typical Kiton hidden button point).
The fabric is stunning, mine is a mid-charcoal solid with a very subtle woven self pin stripe-never seen this before. It is a frescos-esque feel and very nice and light. Perfect for here in ATL.
Edited by antirabbit - 12/17/15 at 6:05am
post #1390 of 1494
I tried MP Massimo Di Piombo in EU 46 once, I'm pretty solid US36 and it felt somewhat too big, surprised that you find it slim
post #1391 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

I tried MP Massimo Di Piombo in EU 46 once, I'm pretty solid US36 and it felt somewhat too big, surprised that you find it slim

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by antirabbit View Post

Yep, they are of the same quality, however not the same styling. The bottom label is a bit older-meaning it will have beefier shoulders and the lapel notch placement will be lower, button stance may be lower, and the lapel width may also be different. Out side of those issue, they are both fantastic.


ALSO...
to add/confirm another label on here.

I just bought a new suit from

MP Massimo Di Piombo-
IS made by Kiton, it is full canvassed and has quite a bit of handwork. The suit I got also has button fly, 1/4 lined and the fabric is mind blowing. The cut is slim and I mean Italian slim.

IS NOT made to Kiton Standards-the button holes are no where near what a Kiton has, no stem holder, lapels are a bit different than the super high notch and super wide-these are more narrow and do not "swell" like most of the Neapolitan top end makers. Pick stitching is not as amazing, but still by hand. Pants do not have nearly as much handwork (the waist is not sewn in by hand, most of the sewing is by machine).

I would put this above say a Caruso suit, in the ball park of say an Isaia with far less obvious embellishment (crazy messy hand sewing and contrasting thread colors), this is fairly conservative in styling-thats what I wanted. The pants are slim but not skinny, the cut of the jacket is slim as well, the shoulders are nearly unpadded, the sewing is impeccable. The sleeves are prepared for functional buttons and have the button holes already sewn. The chest pocket is a very nice arc and the lapels are middle of the road in width, no swells, and not nearly as wide at the notch point as what one would expect from Kiton or Naples. The construction is A+ and the pants have all the bells and whistles (pleated curtain, button fly, hidden french fly with the typical Kiton hidden button point).
The fabric is stunning, mine is a mid-charcoal solid with a very subtle woven self pin stripe-never seen this before. It is a frescos-esque feel and very nice and light. Perfect for here in ATL.

 

The retail price points (see Mr. Porter) of some of the jackets and suits appears about $1K less than previous seasons, so I wonder if the above is still the case. 

post #1392 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by antirabbit View Post

Yep, they are of the same quality, however not the same styling. The bottom label is a bit older-meaning it will have beefier shoulders and the lapel notch placement will be lower, button stance may be lower, and the lapel width may also be different. Out side of those issue, they are both fantastic.

hidden french fly with the typical Kiton hidden button point

thank you very much!

 

and could you pls post a pic about the fly? 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

I tried MP Massimo Di Piombo in EU 46 once, I'm pretty solid US36 and it felt somewhat too big, surprised that you find it slim

i got a MP sportcoat around 2 years ago from yoox,the quality is very ordinary in my eye, and the fit is slim (like boglioli or slimmer) and short (regular but like short).

 

so i think @StockwellDay is right, they vary much from season to season.

post #1393 of 1494
Can someone confirm for me/link me to info that Gucci is made by the same people as Zegna mainline? Have my eyes on a reasonably priced new Gucci, want to know what I'd be getting.
post #1394 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by antirabbit View Post

Yep, they are of the same quality, however not the same styling. The bottom label is a bit older-meaning it will have beefier shoulders and the lapel notch placement will be lower, button stance may be lower, and the lapel width may also be different. Out side of those issue, they are both fantastic.


ALSO...
to add/confirm another label on here.

I just bought a new suit from

MP Massimo Di Piombo-
IS made by Kiton, it is full canvassed and has quite a bit of handwork. The suit I got also has button fly, 1/4 lined and the fabric is mind blowing. The cut is slim and I mean Italian slim.

IS NOT made to Kiton Standards-the button holes are no where near what a Kiton has, no stem holder, lapels are a bit different than the super high notch and super wide-these are more narrow and do not "swell" like most of the Neapolitan top end makers. Pick stitching is not as amazing, but still by hand. Pants do not have nearly as much handwork (the waist is not sewn in by hand, most of the sewing is by machine).

I would put this above say a Caruso suit, in the ball park of say an Isaia with far less obvious embellishment (crazy messy hand sewing and contrasting thread colors), this is fairly conservative in styling-thats what I wanted. The pants are slim but not skinny, the cut of the jacket is slim as well, the shoulders are nearly unpadded, the sewing is impeccable. The sleeves are prepared for functional buttons and have the button holes already sewn. The chest pocket is a very nice arc and the lapels are middle of the road in width, no swells, and not nearly as wide at the notch point as what one would expect from Kiton or Naples. The construction is A+ and the pants have all the bells and whistles (pleated curtain, button fly, hidden french fly with the typical Kiton hidden button point).
The fabric is stunning, mine is a mid-charcoal solid with a very subtle woven self pin stripe-never seen this before. It is a frescos-esque feel and very nice and light. Perfect for here in ATL.

Have two MP blazers and one suit (all recent seasons), none of them is canvassed (not even half). Fit is nice, and fabric is interesting, but that's about it. I wonder if they were used to be made by Kiton but not anymore, and now focuses on flashy/loud fabrics and stylings, similar to Lardini, Gabriele Pasini, and the like.
post #1395 of 1494
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

That TF price seems a bit low, was it say around 2010? I think it's more like $5K these days, haven't walk into Dunhill for a while, but last time I checked it's like <$3k for most?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamless View Post


I just bought my first and it was 3800.
 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Hum guess they have different range or my memory is simply wrong...

 

Definitely Fabric by Fabric but I think the Average right now is low 4's for basic fabric. My most recent one was just under 5 and for a 2 piece suit in a very unique flannel.

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