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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 87

post #1291 of 1318

Any opinions on this 60/40 mohair/wool suit? I've heard Lardini makes decent stuff, and mohair is supposed to have some advantages as a fabric. Any opinions on the brand or fabric? I'm 5'10.5", 150 lbs, and would buy the size 38.

 

With the additional 10% discount that Yoox is offering, the suit would cost me $402. Decent price?

http://www.yoox.com/us/49137333TX/item?dept=clothingmen#sts=sr_clothingmen80&cod10=49137333TX&sizeId=3

post #1292 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by redboat View Post

Any opinions on this 60/40 mohair/wool suit? I've heard Lardini makes decent stuff, and mohair is supposed to have some advantages as a fabric. Any opinions on the brand or fabric? I'm 5'10.5", 150 lbs, and would buy the size 38.

With the additional 10% discount that Yoox is offering, the suit would cost me $402. Decent price?
http://www.yoox.com/us/49137333TX/item?dept=clothingmen#sts=sr_clothingmen80&cod10=49137333TX&sizeId=3
That's a pretty decent price, IMHO. Lardini is pretty good, I believe half canvassed (at least the pieces I've handled). You might want to check eBay first though. Lardini can usually be had for pretty cheap on there.
post #1293 of 1318
Who make a better suit BBBF (USA) VS. RLBL, if fit was equal on each?
post #1294 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

@MZhammer why did you delete my tabbed formatting? Did you not find it helpful? Isn't it nice to know about Caruso's niche brands, and the fashion brands that are made by high end manufacturers?


My apologies, I guess I didn't see it when I was looking at the lists. I updated the master to include the edits you made.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gyasih View Post

Who make a better suit BBBF (USA) VS. RLBL, if fit was equal on each?


I believe thats a Martin Greenfield vs Caruso question and the cuts are SUPER different. They are both quality makers so they will be pretty equivalent.

post #1295 of 1318
Thanks MZ, I was referring to quality, should all other things be equal.
post #1296 of 1318

Hi, could anyone help take a shoot who's the maker of this:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380918248422

 

thanks 

post #1297 of 1318
Without a pic of a technical label, it's anyone's guess.
post #1298 of 1318
love this guide and use it quite often. anywhere i can find a shoe equivalent?

http://www.styleforum.net/t/701/shoes-explained

that was great but wanted to get something updated like this with a ranking
post #1299 of 1318

that's helpful

post #1300 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Kiton
- Oxxford
-Thom Browne
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- St Andrew
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Isaia
- D'Avenza

Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
- Belvest
--Lanvin
-Jil Sander tailor made
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Canali Milano
- (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Zegna Couture
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Sartoria Castangia
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage

Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Corneliani
- Canali
- K by Canali
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Samuelsohn
- Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
- Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Etro / Boglioli
- Giorgio Armani (black label)

Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
- Cantarelli
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
- H. Freemann
- Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
- hickey
- Hackett
- Z-Zegna

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
- Hugo Boss
- Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
- Joseph Abboud
- J. Press


did you own each brand to make the conclusion?

post #1301 of 1318
I have owned/ tried on many of the aforementioned and agree with most though I find, IMO:

- Thom Browne cuts are terrible with the short arms/legs
- most modern RLPL is Saint andrews, and they are excellent
- RLBL should be added to good (rayon? Wtf)/ very good (Caruso)
- alexander mcqueen should be added to very good
- Huntsman should be added to excellent,a long with several other Saville row houses. (a&s, g&h)
- oxxford is very good but not excellent (despite being "handmade")
- gucci's high end are very good
- tom ford are excellent
- ovadia and sons are very good (Martin greenfield I think)
- burberry london is satisfactory
- burberry prorsum is good / very good but not for everyone, cuts are odd
- MMM margiela is good
- prada can be very good though I found most good
post #1302 of 1318
Does anyone known where Duchamp in the UK would fall in these catagories? I have read in a few places they are half canvased but I am in the US and cannot check for myself. I like they style and I would be ordering from abroad so any insight would be great.
post #1303 of 1318
can anyone speak to the coppley vs samuelsohn. i have been told its half canvassed vs. full, but not sure about much beyond that. looking at getting 1 made from most probably one of these two in toronto.

thanks!
post #1304 of 1318

Samuelsohn is full canvass, and will have better finishing.  Coppley is a bit cheaper, has some more interesting fabrics sometimes.

post #1305 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyGuy View Post

I have owned/ tried on many of the aforementioned and agree with most though I find, IMO:

- Thom Browne cuts are terrible with the short arms/legs
- most modern RLPL is Saint andrews, and they are excellent
- RLBL should be added to good (rayon? Wtf)/ very good (Caruso)
- alexander mcqueen should be added to very good
- Huntsman should be added to excellent,a long with several other Saville row houses. (a&s, g&h)
- oxxford is very good but not excellent (despite being "handmade")
- gucci's high end are very good
- tom ford are excellent
- ovadia and sons are very good (Martin greenfield I think)
- burberry london is satisfactory
- burberry prorsum is good / very good but not for everyone, cuts are odd
- MMM margiela is good
- prada can be very good though I found most good

There are a few others I'd take issue with as well. For starters, whether excellent or very good, Isaia and Belvest belong in the same category and Isaia definitely doesn't belong in a higher category (and I had extensive experience evaluating both as I was choosing between them for a wedding suit). However if you want to break up Belvest into black and silver label, then I'd say black belongs in excellent, silver in very good. Also, if Tom Ford goes in the excellent category, shouldn't Zegna Couture be there as well, since I thought they were roughly the same suit. I also think that all RLBL suits are made by Caruso; not sure where you're seeing Rayon in them, all of the ones I've seen are wool (some sport coats are cashmere). And as nice as they are, I find it hard to believe that BBGF is truly in a category above mainline Canali and Zegna
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