The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

JTA · Nov 25, 2012

jeff13007 said:
If I'm not mistaken Black Fleece is designed by Thom Browne I'm not sure if they utilize the same maker as his regular line though

Last year I checked BBBF is "Made in USA" manufactured by Southwick and is half canvassed.

andrewgreg said:
Regarding the Lanvin. I have a Lanvin blazer made by Caruso, super 150s, I think it's fully canvassed (pitch test). Regarding for most of the designer brand (fashion) their suit could be very well made but way over priced. However you are getting the particular look.

I'd one Lanvin by Caruso suit and the cut is very slim. The suit is very sharp and well made though at an exorbitant price point at retail.

andrewgreg · Nov 25, 2012

The lanvin by Caruso suit could be retailed at 2500. A blazer is normally at 2000. Which is very expensive.

stevent · Nov 25, 2012

chocsosa said:
Golden Fleece is made by Martin Greenfield.. Dont know who makes Black Fleece though..

Golden Fleece is Italy made now, used to be mostly Greenfield but they have a few southwick ones in Marshalls and the like. My point was it's hard to rank as within brands and within lines there are so many different makers / lines

jeff13007 said:
If I'm not mistaken Black Fleece is designed by Thom Browne I'm not sure if they utilize the same maker as his regular line though

Black Fleece is mostly southwick for suiting and china / thailand for blazers and sports coats. Thom Browne is Comme des Garcons factory in Japan now.

Outlaw 06 · Nov 25, 2012

^ Off the rack Golden Fleece suits are primarily made in the USA by Southwick and some are still made in Italy. Made to measure Golden Fleece suits are made by Martin Greenfield Clothiers in Brooklyn, NY.

taxgenius · Nov 25, 2012

Outlaw 06 said:
^ Off the rack Golden Fleece suits are primarily made in the USA by Southwick and some are still made in Italy. Made to measure Golden Fleece suits are made by Martin Greenfield Clothiers in Brooklyn, NY.

In terms of hand work, to which other brand would you compare it to?

Outlaw 06 · Nov 25, 2012

^ I think that depends on how you special order it. BB offers a MTM option for 1/16 Picked Stitched or Hand Stitched coat lapels so those options may result in more handwork than the standard lapels.

My MTM Golden Fleece suit jacket has hand sewn arm holes, hand stitched lapels, hand stitched chest (welt) pocket, hand sewn buttonholes and hand sewn sleeve buttonholes. My MTM trousers have a hand sewn waistband. I remember the sales associate telling me that there was 18 hours of handwork in every MTM Golden Fleece suit.

Comparing the MTM Golden Fleece jacket to what I own, it definitely has less handwork than my Isaia Aquaspider sport coat and it has more handwork than my Corneliani sport coats.

Docb16 · Nov 30, 2012

Where would you guys put Benjamin Sartorial suits on this list?

aravenel · Nov 30, 2012

Docb16 said:
Where would you guys put Benjamin Sartorial suits on this list?

Probably somewhere around the rest of the entry-level full canvassed suits (Corneliani, Canali). I've got one, and its a nicely made suit for the price.

Lumaca · Dec 2, 2012

I saw some Thierry Mugler suits yesterday, and was wondering if anyone can help. Does anyone know where they are made and if they're any good?

Hiras Fashion · Dec 3, 2012

Lumaca said:
I saw some Thierry Mugler suits yesterday, and was wondering if anyone can help. Does anyone know where they are made and if they're any good?

I think owning a Thierry Mugler suit is like owning an exquisite piece of architecture and his suits are hailed for its structure that modls the body like sculpted art. There's boldness to it. A Vintage or genuine Thierry Mugler suit should be made in France.

dreamspace · Dec 3, 2012

Can't see Oxxford here, but their suits are excellent, would put them right above BBGF. Own two Navy suits from both, that look identical, but the detailing and feel on the Oxxford is better. Two different fits though...BBGF is Madison, while the Oxxford is 1220.

jazerad · Dec 15, 2012

I actually own a Thierry Mugler suit its made in italy by Tombolini

SirGrotius · Dec 16, 2012

Outlaw 06 said:
^ I think that depends on how you special order it. BB offers a MTM option for 1/16 Picked Stitched or Hand Stitched coat lapels so those options may result in more handwork than the standard lapels.

My MTM Golden Fleece suit jacket has hand sewn arm holes, hand stitched lapels, hand stitched chest (welt) pocket, hand sewn buttonholes and hand sewn sleeve buttonholes. My MTM trousers have a hand sewn waistband. I remember the sales associate telling me that there was 18 hours of handwork in every MTM Golden Fleece suit.

Comparing the MTM Golden Fleece jacket to what I own, it definitely has less handwork than my Isaia Aquaspider sport coat and it has more handwork than my Corneliani sport coats.

Not to derail this, but what are the signs of handwork vs. machine?

Archimedes · Dec 26, 2012

Can anyone recognize this label (see attached photo)? Also, what do WO, WM, WS stand for? If I remeber correctly the fabric was a wool/mohair blend so I suppose WO is wool, WM is mohair and WS cashmere?
Thank you in advance

[ATTACHMENT=4940]label.jpg (2,812k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

SirGrotius · Feb 8, 2013

Anyone have experience with Band of Outsiders suits?

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