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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 84

post #1246 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit50 View Post

You buy RLPL and Attolini but now are considering a Cucinelli?
That is uhoh.gif and makes little sense to put it mildly.
1500 is not a small number for RTW if you are a real shopper but in that case you do not care about cost and would not be lurking here asking about it.
I have implicitly answered one of your questions without the intent to do so.

I have not really asked for comments on my shopping pattern here nor how I should spend my money, it was rather a specific question on BC and certainly your answer does not address it. Suggest you ignore my question and live in peace.

post #1247 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by alpyigit View Post

I have not really asked for comments on my shopping pattern here nor how I should spend my money, it was rather a specific question on BC and certainly your answer does not address it. Suggest you ignore my question and live in peace.

Actually, you did ask about an aspect of your shopping pattern, ie. Cucinelli at 1500USD. That was, in essence, your question.

It is clearly not as good as Attolini and for me(most on SF), nothing to be happy about purchasing at 1500.
And as far as answering points outside of your direct question, yes, I did and that was not necessary but when you lack logic or rationale it makes the question fuzzy because one or a few of many factors is off.
And that does needle me more than it should, I admit.
Really, I just am curious as to know which factor led to your odd question construction.
But I will just have to live at peace without such knowledge.
post #1248 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by gambit50 View Post


Actually, you did ask about an aspect of your shopping pattern, ie. Cucinelli at 1500USD. That was, in essence, your question.

It is clearly not as good as Attolini and for me(most on SF), nothing to be happy about purchasing at 1500.
And as far as answering points outside of your direct question, yes, I did and that was not necessary but when you lack logic or rationale it makes the question fuzzy because one or a few of many factors is off.
And that does needle me more than it should, I admit.
Really, I just am curious as to know which factor led to your odd question construction.
But I will just have to live at peace without such knowledge.

yeah, whatever.

post #1249 of 1303
Bumping the Most Recent List (Click to show)

Disclaimer: This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.
 

Excellent [☆☆☆☆☆]
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli

- Caraceni
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli

- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew / Santandrea
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[☆☆☆☆] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Oxxford (1220)
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Partenopea
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino

Good[☆☆☆] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics but usually half canvassed)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL

- Robert Talbott (Made in USA by Martin Greenfield)
- Samuelsohn

Satisfactory [☆☆] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boggi
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)

- Prada (half canvassed)
- Peter Millar

- Southwick
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre[☆] (Suits that are mediocre.)


- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Corneliani Trend (fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- J Crew Ludlow (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna

Quote:
Originally Posted by alpyigit View Post
 

Two quick questions here for which I would truly appreciate any guidance / answers:

 

- Is Brunello Cucinelli SC's are done by Caruso? I just saw a BC SC today which I can swear by that identical to my Caruso SC albeit being in different color?

 

- I also liked a BC DB suit but on the fence about paying USD1500. Just questioning if I am getting solid craftsmanship for that kind of money, which I always believe I am getting when I buy RLPL and Attolini, even I end up paying higher than this price level..


I'm unsure who actually makes BC sport coats but I have one and can speak to the fact that they usually don't represent a great value for the money and incorporate 0 handwork however they do use amazing fabrics which, in my mind, helps balance the lack of hand details.

 

I think you sort of said it yourself, RLPL and Attolini are much higher in quality and you can feel it when you wear them (or at least I can) but the build quality of BC will be "solid" just not as supple as many SF'ers prefer. We have expensive tastes it would seem.

 

Also, he makes a 1-1/2 DB as opposed to the standard double breasted silhouette which shouldn't be ignored. If that's the look you want go for it but for myself I think I'd prefer something a bit more trad. In that range I'd be looking to Belvest before BC.
 

just my .02

post #1250 of 1303

i find a 'SARTORIA NAPOLETANA' sportcoat that made by isaia on ebay

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

from the info.showed on this tag,i think isaia own this brand.

but that's not the point,

 what surprised me is the hand-sewn method used here 

so can i suppose the quality of the garments under SN brand are higher than those isaia self brand?

post #1251 of 1303

who could comment on the quality of timothy everest RTW line?

some garments look very nice on their site

http://timothyeverest.co.uk/past-ready-to-wear-collections

post #1252 of 1303
post #1253 of 1303
The list says Brunello Cucinelli is half canvassed. Not true.
post #1254 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

The list says Brunello Cucinelli is half canvassed. Not true.

+1

one cotton BC suit handy is full canvassed

 

boglioli which listed as half canvassed or fuse is a little in the same condition,

because i have already met some full canvassed boglioli

post #1255 of 1303
Quote:

Can we just all take a moment and appreciate how terrific this is? Thank you Dirnelli & team

post #1256 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post


Perhaps, however if we do that there will be literally hundreds on the avoid list which isn't right. If you're budget truly is max $200 then you don't have many choices and it would be foolish to avoid buying a suit simply because they aren't worth the money in our eyes. As Riva clearly illustrates not everyone agrees on what is or isn't worth the money. Some of us wouldn't wear a Zara suit, some of us love them for the value.

We're trying to focus on recommendations, pointing you in a specific direction, rather than giving guidance on every possible brand. Maybe it might be best to put a disclaimer that if the brand isn't found on the list then we can't recommend it's quality? I don't know, but I think we've gathered a fairly robust set of "recommended" OTR suits that are readily available across the globe. I'd suggest we avoid adding more "not recommends" to the list and keep it mainly limited to vary degrees of recommending. As we discuss brands like TH, if they don't meet the requirements we can leave them off and keep the list manageable.

Maybe something like below?

______________________________________________________________________________________________
Disclaimer:This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.

 
Excellent [*****]

- Oxxford (Highest Quality)

- Brioni

- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Caraceni

- Kiton

- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale

- Luigi Borrelli

- Sartoria Castangia

- St Andrew / Santandrea

- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana

- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

- Sartoria Formosa


Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)


- Battistoni

- D'Avenza

- Isaia

- Sartoria Partenopea

- Oxxford (1220)

- Belvest mainline

- Borrelli Luxury Vintage

- Canali Milano

- Corneliani Linea Sartoria

- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)

- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Attolini Napoli

- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma

- RLPL

- Sartorio

- Stile Latino


Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)


- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)

- Canali mainline

- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)

- Cantarelli mainline

- Corneliani mainline

- Dunhill

- Ermenegildo Zegna

- Faconnable Tailleur
- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)

- Hickey Freeman Mainline

- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Pal Zileri mainline

- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)

- Paul Stuart

- Raffaelle Caruso mainline

- RLBL

- Samuelsohn

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
- Robert Talbott (Made in USA by Martin Greenfield)

- Scuderi

- Ring Jacket


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)

- Burberry Prorsum

- Cantarelli Tailor

- Charles Tyrwhitt

- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)

- Coppley (half canvassed)

- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)

- Gucci

- H. Freemann

- Hackett (half canvassed)

- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics

- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)

- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)

- Lardini (half canvassed)

- L.B.M. 1911

- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)

- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)

- Piombo

- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)

- Suit Supply (half canvassed)

- Valentino (half canvassed)

- Prada (half canvassed)

- Peter Millar

- Tagliatore


Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)

- J Crew Ludlow (fused)

- Armani Exchange

- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Dolce & Gabbana

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)

- Hickey (now fused and made in China)

- Hugo Boss (fused)

- Joseph Abboud

- Pal Zileri Lab

- Versace Collection

- Z Zegna

- Armani Collezioni (fused)

- Corneliani Trend (fused)

This list needs to be updated. Formosa? Ring Jacket? English RTW? Anyone?
Edited by kulata - 4/25/14 at 7:29am
post #1257 of 1303

generally,i think ring jacket is 'Good'.

 

i once sold a 'ring jacket black label' coat, which is nicer than those ' ring jacket' label (black or blue background color) garments i met

but this is my only experience with  'black label' , so i have no idea whether it's a higher line or just older label.

post #1258 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

This list needs to be updated. Formosa? Ring Jacket? English RTW? Anyone?

From what I read based on other's experiences in the NMWA thread, Formosa should be at the top. Something that's bespoke quality or close to it.
post #1259 of 1303
Quote:
Originally Posted by coloRLOw View Post

generally,i think ring jacket is 'Good'.

i once sold a 'ring jacket black label' coat, which is nicer than those ' ring jacket' label (black or blue background color) garments i met
but this is my only experience with  'black label' , so i have no idea whether it's a higher line or just older label.

- This is interesting. I don't think the black label exists anymore (now their highest appear to be 'Meister') but that's what I have too. I definitely find these higher than the 'good' category. Easily as good as what I've been from for example Belvest or Borrelli luxury vintage.
post #1260 of 1303

alexander mcqueen suits anyone?

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