The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 9

Richard Anderson's diagonal pinstripe yes ... but no matter what the rumors imply ... I did NOT order this.

My (alterations) tailor, who also does work for Wilkes Bashford,
and has numerous clients who wear very high-end clothing,
has volunteered that he thinks Brioni is better made than Kiton.
I wouldn't know. I don't wear either.

When I lived in Chicago some 20 years ago my tailor, who had a
similar clientele"” one saw Savile Row garments in for alterations,
complained that Oxxford clothing was "delicate"; the hand stitching
regularly came apart.

The list:
Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. If money is a factor then these suits could sell for much, much more. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Kiton
- Oxxford
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Borrelli
- RLPL

Very Good [****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category or prices could be raised significantly and would still be good value).

- Luciano Barbera
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Isaia
- Caruso Sartoria Parma
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale
- Ravazzolo
- Zegna Couture
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

Good [***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits or the value of these suits is above average).
- Caruso
- Canali
- Corneliani
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Samuelsohn


Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable, and the price matches it).
- Cantarelli
- Boglioli (might not be not in terms of construction, but def for cut and fabric)
- Brooks Brothers 1818
- Paul Smith
- H. Freemann
- Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
- RLBL
- Z-Zegna (sometimes satisfactory sometimes mediocre)

Mediocre[*] (i.e. Suits that should usually be avoided. Quality leaves much to be desired or prices are usually higher than they should be for such a suit).
- Hugo Boss
- Banana Republic Monogram
- Lauren Ralph Lauren-



Bad [ ](i.e. Don't buy. Quality is overall bad, or quality is nowhere near the price asked for).
- H&M
- Banana Republic
- Calvin Klein
- Tasso Elba
- Nautica

Added Luciano Barbera and bumped up BBBF.

So Black Label is down with H. Freemann now? Ouch. How the mighty have fallen.

Lauren Ralph Lauren's within striking distance!

Where are the following?

Bachrach
Armani
Mani
Chester Barrie
Chester by Chester Barrie
Marks & Spencer
George at ASDA
Vestimenta
Henry Grethel
Harve Benard
Don Loper
Hart Schaffner & Marx
Rocco Siffredi
Martin Greenfield
DKNY
K&G
Today's Man
d'Avenza
Belvest
La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
Redaelli
John Blair Collection
Hackett
Tommy Hilfiger
Baroni
Mantoni
Sartoria Venezia
Lubiam
Tombolini
Trussardi
Alfani
Structure
Daniel Hechter
de Fursac
Regent
Southwick
Marco Valentino
Valentino
Nicole Miller

Why is Black Fleece now above Golden Fleece? Can that be right?

Of course it can. Let the list go where it will. I'm looking foward to the final outcome.

It is much better than Brioni, but much worse than Samuelsohn.

Also: Trands! It's wrinkle-free!

And Samelsohn, in turn, is still a step above its recent rival, Samuelsan. But barely, and the list may need updating at a moment's notice.

Where are Boss Hugo Boss and Hugo Hugo Boss?

Where is Pierre Cardin, the richest designer in the world?

What about Donald J Trump Collection?
Sean John?

What about Christian Dior Monsieur? Monsieur Sport? Le Connaisseur?

Where is J Press? How about Jos. A Bank Executive? Signature?

Cardin is still at the top of the heap in terms of wingspan. But that's a separate list. Still no Botany 500, much less Botany 500 tailored by Daroff.

Is that like Daniel-san?

Saw a wicked Halston velvet blazer at Ross nearly 20 years ago. $100. Was too rich for my blood.

Is Perry Ellis there?

How about Boggi? Massino Dutti? Mario Dessuti? Evan-Picone?

Leave it to the Japanese to improve on a Canadian product.


I rank Boss Hugo Boss a level below Hugo Hugo Boss, but both are on par with Hugo Boss Hugo Boss.

I don't have enough AndyPoints to tell you about Donald J. Trump Collection or Pierre Cardin. They've begun filtering my reading as well as my posting.

Sean John is as good as Corvato, which is two levels below Despos. But, if you throw in Vox's Despos discount, it's a different story.

That was a great way to spend 2003...good times.