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post #1186 of 1318
Holy spoiler needed Batman lol

I haven't been able to see/touch Cantarelli or Cucinelli in person yet so that's some good info to have.
post #1187 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardthefirst View Post

I'd definitely support the *** rating. The fabrics and drape are lovely, but the ones I've handled are all half canvassed and made by Cantaralli, I believe it was. Not a stitch of handwork on them. If it wasn't for their styling/ fabric, I'd bump them down a notch personally.

Are you sure about this? Never seen the Cantarelli tag in a BC suit. And always had full canvas.
post #1188 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Are you sure about this? Never seen the Cantarelli tag in a BC suit. And always had full canvas.
I certainly can't speak with 100% confidence as I've only handled them a handful of times... I had heard rumors that Cucinelli suits were actually made by Zegna, which would be a full canvas. I could see that being the case, the only time I actually saw the Cantarelli tag was in a Sport Coat, I believe. It's definitely possible that they've slept around, as it were, with various suit makers... I have read that they used to make for Michael Bastian, which would imply that they even make their own stuff? Though that was probably just shirts and scarves, not suiting. I'm definitely not an absolute authority on this, it's just my personal experience.
post #1189 of 1318

How would you rate Suit Supply fully canvassed?

post #1190 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terpo View Post
 

How would you rate Suit Supply fully canvassed?

 

In my handling of them, I'd say they fall right on the edge of ☆☆ and ☆☆☆. They're either towards the top of the Satisfactory category or at the bottom of the Good category, depending on your persuasion. I've handled a friends suit for only a short time and it looked very solid and well done but if I'm looking at the standard of the ☆☆☆ category I'd put them at the top of the ☆☆ category but thats just me, the case could easily be made for them to be in the Good group.

 

Most Recent List (Click to show)

Disclaimer: This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.
 

Excellent [*****]
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli

- Caraceni
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli

- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew / Santandrea
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Oxxford (1220)
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Partenopea
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL

- Robert Talbott (Made in USA by Martin Greenfield)
- Samuelsohn

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boggi
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)

- Prada (half canvassed)
- Peter Millar
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)


- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Corneliani Trend (fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- J Crew Ludlow (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna

 

post #1191 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post
 

 

In my handling of them, I'd say they fall right on the edge of ☆☆ and ☆☆☆. They're either towards the top of the Satisfactory category or at the bottom of the Good category, depending on your persuasion. I've handled a friends suit for only a short time and it looked very solid and well done but if I'm looking at the standard of the ☆☆☆ category I'd put them at the top of the ☆☆ category but thats just me, the case could easily be made for them to be in the Good group.

 

Most Recent List (Click to show)

Disclaimer: This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.
 

Excellent [*****]
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli

- Caraceni
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli

- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew / Santandrea
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Oxxford (1220)
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Partenopea
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL

- Robert Talbott (Made in USA by Martin Greenfield)
- Samuelsohn

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boggi
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)

- Prada (half canvassed)
- Peter Millar
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)


- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Corneliani Trend (fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- J Crew Ludlow (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna

 

 

And where would you put Benjamin Sartorial in that list? Or in comparison to La Spalla from Suit Supply?

post #1192 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silhouette View Post
 

 

And where would you put Benjamin Sartorial in that list? Or in comparison to La Spalla from Suit Supply?

Bump... also wondering the answer to this question

post #1193 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silhouette View Post

And where would you put Benjamin Sartorial in that list? Or in comparison to La Spalla from Suit Supply?

Just directly compared an $1800 Hickey Freeman against a Benjamin this past weekend. The Benjamin was made of better materials and included some details that were missing in the (much more conservatively styled) HF like pic stitching. Unfortunately the Benjamin's inner lining was too small throughout causing bunching in the back of the jacket. Inconsistencies in the manufacturing of the Chinese made Benjamin product, a small business unable to perform the same level of QA as larger firms, and the price point that they sell at given their construction (full canvas) and higher end materials makes it easy for me to be understanding of the flaws. If you are willing to perform the QA yourself (or via your tailor), then i'd give the jacket 3* just based on the direct comparison with the HF, but assuming manufacturing flaws are not all that uncommon with the Benjamin line (my assumption just based on my experience) and given that some flaws might not show up until some point later, its hard to justify anything more than 2*.
post #1194 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEdge View Post


Just directly compared an $1800 Hickey Freeman against a Benjamin this past weekend. The Benjamin was made of better materials and included some details that were missing in the (much more conservatively styled) HF like pic stitching. Unfortunately the Benjamin's inner lining was too small throughout causing bunching in the back of the jacket. Inconsistencies in the manufacturing of the Chinese made Benjamin product, a small business unable to perform the same level of QA as larger firms, and the price point that they sell at given their construction (full canvas) and higher end materials makes it easy for me to be understanding of the flaws. If you are willing to perform the QA yourself (or via your tailor), then i'd give the jacket 3* just based on the direct comparison with the HF, but assuming manufacturing flaws are not all that uncommon with the Benjamin line (my assumption just based on my experience) and given that some flaws might not show up until some point later, its hard to justify anything more than 2*.

 

Thanks alot for your extensive reply. How much of an issue would this "inner lining" be to a man with standard shoulders? From the looks of it, seeing the measurements on Ehaberdasher, Benjamin suits seem to run rather narrow on shoulders but have a roomy chest. Is this accurate?

 

QA? What is this translated to?

 

And to my initial question: Are the BS and La Spalla to be concidered equal?

 

Once more, thank you.


Edited by Silhouette - 12/17/13 at 11:38pm
post #1195 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Are you sure about this? Never seen the Cantarelli tag in a BC suit. And always had full canvas.

+1.
post #1196 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silhouette View Post

Thanks alot for your extensive reply. How much of an issue would this "inner lining" be to a man with standard shoulders? From the looks of it, seeing the measurements on Ehaberdasher, Benjamin suits seem to run rather narrow on shoulders but have a roomy chest. Is this accurate?

QA? What is this translated to?

And to my initial question: Are the BS and La Spalla to be concidered equal?

Once more, thank you.

The lining issue that I discussed in my original post is a manufacturing defect that causes bunching and doesn't have anything to do with the fit of the shoulders. Below is a picture that I took to justify the exchange with eHaberdasher.

I've already sent back the defected jacket, so i'd have to get back to you with regards to the narrowness of the shoulder but I recall the shoulders being rather narrow. I am pretty broad shouldered to the point where I think i'd benefit from the Napoli line, which has a lighter shoulder padding, but overall, I didn't get the impression that there were any fit issues in the shoulders with the Classico II.

QA refers to quality assurance i.e. the ability of the makers of the Benjamin line to reduce or eliminate selling defected products. Since the bunching was in the back, there is a decent chance I never would have noticed it if it weren't for my tailor asking "wtf?"



BenjaminLining.JPG 563k .JPG file
post #1197 of 1318

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ianiceman View Post

Can't be bothered to read the whole thread again, this may have been discussed already, but I'm pretty sure J Press Ludlow are half canvassed not fused.It

It's true, the J Crew Ludlow is half canvassed. However, several regular posters here really don't want it to be true for some reason, so they relisted it as fused and demoted its status. 

post #1198 of 1318
Hmmmm. Probably the SF anti slim lapel bias in play, despite the disclaimer about fit / style not being a factor in the ratings a due to subjective preferences.

I'm always amused how slim lapels seem to get universal disdain on SF (too fashion forward?) while wingspan lapels seem to get all round boners from the regulars.
post #1199 of 1318
I just posted a new review on my blog about after-sales service from various RTW brands, a topic not yet addressed in this thread:

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/70697329605/dirnelli-awards-2013-as-the-year-2013-draws-to
post #1200 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

I just posted a new review on my blog about after-sales service from various RTW brands, a topic not yet addressed in this thread:

http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/70697329605/dirnelli-awards-2013-as-the-year-2013-draws-to

Good read Dirnelli..if I may ask have you ever owned a YSL Rive Gauche or tried one on and if so, what are your thoughts?

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