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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 79

post #1171 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post
 


I don't understand it either. The silver label is a diffusion line and lower quality, sure, but their white and black label stuff is nice. I've gotten a few of their pieces for NM and I think they're great.

 

On thread, a bump of the most recent list:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Disclaimer: This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.
 

Excellent [*****]
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli

- Caraceni
- Kiton
- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale
- Luigi Borrelli

- Oxxford (Highest Quality)
- Sartoria Castangia
- St Andrew / Santandrea
- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana
- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford

Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)

- Battistoni

- Belvest mainline
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage
- Canali Milano
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- D'Avenza
- Isaia
- Oxxford (1220)
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Partenopea
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma
- RLPL
- Sartorio
- Stile Latino

Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)

- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)
- Canali mainline
- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)
- Cantarelli mainline
- Corneliani mainline
- Dunhill
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Faconnable Tailleur
- Hickey Freeman Mainline

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)
- Pal Zileri mainline
- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)
- Paul Stuart
- Raffaelle Caruso mainline
- RLBL

- Robert Talbott (Made in USA by Martin Greenfield)
- Samuelsohn

Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)

- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boggi
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Burberry Prorsum
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Charles Tyrwhitt
- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)
- Coppley (half canvassed)
- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)
- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)
- Gucci
- H. Freemann
- Hackett (half canvassed)
- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics
- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)
- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)
- Lardini (half canvassed)
- L.B.M. 1911
- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)
- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)
- Piombo
- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)

- Prada (half canvassed)
- Peter Millar
- Suit Supply (half canvassed)
- Valentino (half canvassed)

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)


- Armani Collezioni (fused)
- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Corneliani Trend (fused)
- Dolce & Gabbana
- Hickey (now fused and made in China)
- Hugo Boss (fused)

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)
- J Crew Ludlow (fused)
- Joseph Abboud
- Pal Zileri Lab
- Versace Collection
- Z Zegna

Where does Southwick fit on this? From my experience some people highly regard Southwick, and some pretty much say "meh." I was trying to read this whole forum but it turned into a big debate on how to rate the brand (Price, quality, or fit) around page 30. Sorry if this has been answered before. 

post #1172 of 1318
Most Southwick are half canvass and pretty well made. Not mind blowing but certainly a solid maker of suits and jackets.

I'd put their stuff in the ** category but keep in mind that this list is pretty strict grading. ** is no slouch.
post #1173 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Most Southwick are half canvass and pretty well made. Not mind blowing but certainly a solid maker of suits and jackets.

I'd put their stuff in the ** category but keep in mind that this list is pretty strict grading. ** is no slouch.

Thanks, I appreciate the prompt response. 

post #1174 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Most Southwick are half canvass and pretty well made. Not mind blowing but certainly a solid maker of suits and jackets.

I'd put their stuff in the ** category but keep in mind that this list is pretty strict grading. ** is no slouch.
I thought jackets with the Southwick label (not BB made in the Southwick Factory) were fully canvassed? Every one I have ever picked up has been fully canvassed... Other than that I'd agree and put them in the ** category, albeit at the top.
post #1175 of 1318
Oh... I could be wrong. Southwick also makes jackets for Epaulet and those are all half canvassed as well.

I'm sure they do make some full canvass but I've had the opposite experience in that I always run into their half canvassed products.
post #1176 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Oh... I could be wrong. Southwick also makes jackets for Epaulet and those are all half canvassed as well.

I'm sure they do make some full canvass but I've had the opposite experience in that I always run into their half canvassed products.
Haha very interesting! I'm not 100% sure. Next time I speak to someone from the Southwick company I'll ask for sure.
post #1177 of 1318
Southwick makes full canvas for BB Golden Fleece, but I don't know if they do that under their own name.
post #1178 of 1318
Also, the Falconable listing needs to be updated. The 'taileur' line is no more.

The top line is called Atelier and is made by Zegna. They also have half canvassed suits made by Caruso and Zegna. Check the inner tag to see what you're getting.
post #1179 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Southwick makes full canvas for BB Golden Fleece, but I don't know if they do that under their own name.
I thought Golden Fleece was Martin Greenfield? I own a suit and three SCs from the Southwick label, all full canvas.
post #1180 of 1318
According to an earlier discussion on the forum, BB let Greenfield go due to issues of quality. They brought back it back in-house to Southwick last year or so.
post #1181 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

According to an earlier discussion on the forum, BB let Greenfield go due to issues of quality. They brought back it back in-house to Southwick last year or so.
Very good to know, thank you! I hadn't heard that. I've heard similar rumours about the quality falling at Greenfield.
post #1182 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Most Southwick are half canvass and pretty well made. Not mind blowing but certainly a solid maker of suits and jackets.



I'd put their stuff in the ** category but keep in mind that this list is pretty strict grading. ** is no slouch.

 



southwick also makes BB black fleece if i'm not mistaken. high quality stuff especially at the high end of the black fleece line. i'm a fan.
post #1183 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post


Perhaps, however if we do that there will be literally hundreds on the avoid list which isn't right. If you're budget truly is max $200 then you don't have many choices and it would be foolish to avoid buying a suit simply because they aren't worth the money in our eyes. As Riva clearly illustrates not everyone agrees on what is or isn't worth the money. Some of us wouldn't wear a Zara suit, some of us love them for the value.

We're trying to focus on recommendations, pointing you in a specific direction, rather than giving guidance on every possible brand. Maybe it might be best to put a disclaimer that if the brand isn't found on the list then we can't recommend it's quality? I don't know, but I think we've gathered a fairly robust set of "recommended" OTR suits that are readily available across the globe. I'd suggest we avoid adding more "not recommends" to the list and keep it mainly limited to vary degrees of recommending. As we discuss brands like TH, if they don't meet the requirements we can leave them off and keep the list manageable.

Maybe something like below?

______________________________________________________________________________________________
Disclaimer:This list is intended to recommend suits that have been evaluated first hand by the SF community based on construction quality. Brands not on the list have either not been evaluated or do not meet the minimum requirements to be recommended at any budget level. The list does not include criteria for fit, as it is subjective and differs for each body type, nor does it offer criteria for fabric or styling. If you're brand new to buying a suit, consider the fit of a garment before any other factors.

 
Excellent [*****]

- Oxxford (Highest Quality)

- Brioni

- Cesare Attolini Napoli
- Caraceni

- Kiton

- Luciano Barbera Sartoriale

- Luigi Borrelli

- Sartoria Castangia

- St Andrew / Santandrea

- La Vera Sartoria Napoletana

- Zegna Couture/Tom Ford


Very Good[****] (IE: Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category.)


- Battistoni

- D'Avenza

- Isaia

- Sartoria Partenopea

- Oxxford (1220)

- Belvest mainline

- Borrelli Luxury Vintage

- Canali Milano

- Corneliani Linea Sartoria

- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale: The custom made one--IIRC "Abito Privato"--has excellent quality)

- Ravazzolo

- Sartoria Attolini Napoli

- Raffaelle Caruso: Sartoria Parma

- RLPL

- Sartorio

- Stile Latino


Good[***] (IE: Quality is superior to most suits.)


- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece

- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece

- Brunello Cucinelli (very nice fabrics)

- Canali mainline

- Canali Exclusive (higher end fabrics)

- Cantarelli mainline

- Corneliani mainline

- Dunhill

- Ermenegildo Zegna

- Faconnable Tailleur
- Martin Greenfield for Gilt, BoO, FSC, & O&S (fully canvassed)

- Hickey Freeman Mainline

- Kei by Canali (full canvas, but very soft)

- Pal Zileri mainline

- Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)

- Paul Stuart

- Raffaelle Caruso mainline

- RLBL

- Samuelsohn

- J. Press Pressidential (full canvas)
- Robert Talbott (Made in USA by Martin Greenfield)


Satisfactory [**] (IE: The "average" brands. Quality is acceptable.)


- Belvest Silver Label (half canvassed line)

- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)

- Burberry Prorsum

- Cantarelli Tailor

- Charles Tyrwhitt

- CC Corneliani (half canvassed)

- Coppley (half canvassed)

- Etro (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Boglioli (if you can find the half canvas ones; some fused)

- Giorgio Armani (Black Label)[/U] (alot of their pieces are fused)

- Gucci

- H. Freemann

- Hackett (half canvassed)

- Hugo Boss Selection[/U] half canvassed and some premium fabrics

- Hickey Freeman LTD (half canvassed)

- J. Press Presstige (half canvassed)

- Lardini (half canvassed)

- L.B.M. 1911

- Marks and Spencer (any of their "Pure Wool" collection)

- Paul Smith London (half canvassed)

- Piombo

- Polo Ralph Lauren (half canvassed, excellent fabric)

- Suit Supply (half canvassed)

- Valentino (half canvassed)

- Prada (half canvassed)
- Peter Millar


Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre.)

- J Crew Ludlow (fused)

- Armani Exchange

- Calvin Klein Collection (now fused)

- Dolce & Gabbana

- J. Press mainline (fused; decent fabrics)

- Hickey (now fused and made in China)

- Hugo Boss (fused)

- Joseph Abboud

- Pal Zileri Lab

- Versace Collection

- Z Zegna

- Armani Collezioni (fused)

- Corneliani Trend (fused)


For the prize of Cucinelli suits you'd expect a little higher quality then you stated here.. satisfied.gif
post #1184 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndianBoyz View Post

For the prize of Cucinelli suits you'd expect a little higher quality then you stated here.. satisfied.gif
I'd definitely support the *** rating. The fabrics and drape are lovely, but the ones I've handled are all half canvassed and made by Cantaralli, I believe it was. Not a stitch of handwork on them. If it wasn't for their styling/ fabric, I'd bump them down a notch personally.
post #1185 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardthefirst View Post

I'd definitely support the *** rating. The fabrics and drape are lovely, but the ones I've handled are all half canvassed and made by Cantaralli, I believe it was. Not a stitch of handwork on them. If it wasn't for their styling/ fabric, I'd bump them down a notch personally.

Nice to know.
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