or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 76

post #1126 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post
 

I would agree with Ich_Dien. The one suit I've handled was a good deal but not on par with anything in the "Good" category. They're a great value for the satisfactory category.

 

I was undecided because it's worse than anything in the *** category, but also better (sometimes much better) then pretty much everything in the ** category. (In particular, I'm referring to their top line "Sartoriale", which should be fully canvassed and uses very nice fabrics)

 

I switched to SuitSupply because I decided to sacrifice something in terms of quality in order to have more quantity/variety, but I'd still reccomend it as a solid entry-level brand for people in their 20s and 30s. (Unless you don't like the Italian cut, since this one is very Italian and also quite modern, so expect a short and slim cut)

post #1127 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprezziamo View Post
 

 

I was undecided because it's worse than anything in the *** category, but also better (sometimes much better) then pretty much everything in the ** category. (In particular, I'm referring to their top line "Sartoriale", which should be fully canvassed and uses very nice fabrics)

 

I switched to SuitSupply because I decided to sacrifice something in terms of quality in order to have more quantity/variety, but I'd still reccomend it as a solid entry-level brand for people in their 20s and 30s. (Unless you don't like the Italian cut, since this one is very Italian and also quite modern, so expect a short and slim cut)


I think you're spot on. I'd definitely rank them below any of the "good" category but at the highest rung of the "satisfactory" category. But again, I've only handled one of their suits once so take that with a grain of salt.

post #1128 of 1318

Also, why don't we add the price range that one should expect to pay for the brands that are listed? I think it would be really useful, in particular for some relatively unknown brands and for inexpert users, and it shouldn't be too difficult, considering the enormous SF's users knowledge. It would also allow people to make a preliminary judgment based on quality/money, and to only visit the stores that are aligned to their budget.

post #1129 of 1318
^^ +1. Certo.
post #1130 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprezziamo View Post

Also, why don't we add the price range that one should expect to pay for the brands that are listed? I think it would be really useful, in particular for some relatively unknown brands and for inexpert users, and it shouldn't be too difficult, considering the enormous SF's users knowledge. It would also allow people to make a preliminary judgment based on quality/money, and to only visit the stores that are aligned to their budget.

Probably because prices vary so much for the different makers for several different reasons - fabrics used, model of suit, who the maker is making it for (own label vs. work for another label), point of sale, level of construction, import tariffs etc. A Zegna suit sold just outside Piazza San Marco is a lot more expensive than one sold in the centre of Padova. Likewise when sold in America it'd be even more expensive...

The idea of the thread is just to point out the quality unrelated to price, surely?
post #1131 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post


Probably because prices vary so much for the different makers for several different reasons - fabrics used, model of suit, who the maker is making it for (own label vs. work for another label), point of sale, level of construction, import tariffs etc. A Zegna suit sold just outside Piazza San Marco is a lot more expensive than one sold in the centre of Padova. Likewise when sold in America it'd be even more expensive...

The idea of the thread is just to point out the quality unrelated to price, surely?


Correct.

 

Prices vary wildly depending on how and when you buy (MSRP, Sale, eBay, second hand etc). From Experience I just purchased a NWT Raffaele Caruso Sartoria Parma sport coat off of eBay - granted mine was in corduroy so it's harder to find a "staple" - for $212.50. If I wanted to buy it at a retail outlet in America I'd be looking at approximately $1,500 or more and on Yoox they usually go for $495-695. I also won a Luciano Barbera Collezione Sartoriale SC NWT on eBay for $200-ish earlier this year. Giving an acceptable range is nearly impossible with such wide variety of how to buy.

 

I'd say, if you have the luxury of time to search and desire to save the most money.

1. determine your budget

2. know how you want to buy (MSRP, sale, online, second hand)

3. do some research and see what you can get in that range

4. then find a fit that works with your body from that range

5. buy


Edited by MZhammer - 11/14/13 at 7:51am
post #1132 of 1318
I agree that adding price information could be misleading for a noob looking to make a purchase because these brands are available at all different prices depending on the sales channel (new, discounted, used), so RRP comparisons would not tell us anything because obviously the RRP scale just mirrors the quality ranking in this list.

Let people decide what quality they want and then hunt out for themselves the best deal in that quality. And let them decide for themselves whether they prefer to spend on new or used clothing given a set budget.
post #1133 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by McKriss View Post


Where I live, everything Black Label is fused.

Just to let you know, I checked with my SA and there are certain pieces in the line that are half canvassed and certain pieces which are fully canvased. Those $3500 (or $3950) and up tend to fully canvased. Those below tend to be half canvassed.

 

As someone posted, those with bastings are fully canvased.

 

I own a fully canvased GA suit and it is very well made, uses great materials and has a wonderful cut. 

post #1134 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by kngnkn View Post

Just to let you know, I checked with my SA and there are certain pieces in the line that are half canvassed and certain pieces which are fully canvased. Those $3500 (or $3950) and up tend to fully canvased. Those below tend to be half canvassed.

As someone posted, those with bastings are fully canvased.

I own a fully canvased GA suit and it is very well made, uses great materials and has a wonderful cut. 
Good info, but it only augments the problem caused by labels with multiple quality levels.
post #1135 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by kngnkn View Post

Just to let you know, I checked with my SA and there are certain pieces in the line that are half canvassed and certain pieces which are fully canvased. Those $3500 (or $3950) and up tend to fully canvased. Those below tend to be half canvassed.

As someone posted, those with bastings are fully canvased.

I own a fully canvased GA suit and it is very well made, uses great materials and has a wonderful cut. 

Hey bud,

I don't think the SA is correct about half canvass black label. All the BL stuff I've handled has been fused or fully canvassed. Maybe there's a half canvass option with BL mtm.

Collezioni is half canvassed when it's mtm, but that's it. OTR Collezioni is fused.
post #1136 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

Hey bud,

I don't think the SA is correct about half canvass black label. All the BL stuff I've handled has been fused or fully canvassed. Maybe there's a half canvass option with BL mtm.

Collezioni is half canvassed when it's mtm, but that's it. OTR Collezioni is fused.


This is a relatively new thing right? in the middle of 2012 i was checking out some Collezioni suits at Barney's (Zegna makers label) that were fully canvassed. I know the zegna/Collezioni thing is over now but im surprised that they dropped canvassing all together.
post #1137 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post


Hey bud,

I don't think the SA is correct about half canvass black label. All the BL stuff I've handled has been fused or fully canvassed. Maybe there's a half canvass option with BL mtm.

Collezioni is half canvassed when it's mtm, but that's it. OTR Collezioni is fused.

I'm believe they are half canvassed and not fused. I can't really say for sure as I have no official confirmation, but it's not the first time I've heard that since Armani took over production fusing is gone. 

 

I've read the same on AAAC before 

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?105448-Armani-suit-versus-everyone-else.

 

I'll check for sure next time and let you guys know. 

 

Also more of an customer service aside, I've gotten world class service from my GA SA. I've shopped at many department stores, boutiques etc. but what ultimately made me a big fan of GA was the customer service. (Also great sales) 

post #1138 of 1318
I think I was just surprised that I wasn't blown away when I tried on my first Black Label suit at Bergdorf (the canvassed model). You hear all these great things about Armani and it just fits like a regular suit (my personal opinion obviously). I tried on the 'Trader' model which has square shoulders, higher buttoning point and shorter jacket.

When I tried on TF for the first time, I was very impressed with the silhouette. The Zegna Torino model is also great if you like roped shoulders.

That said, Armani BL dress shirts are nice. Very delicate fabrics with MoP buttons.
post #1139 of 1318

Anyone have experience with Kent & Curwen? Where would they fit in the scale?

post #1140 of 1318
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

I think I was just surprised that I wasn't blown away when I tried on my first Black Label suit at Bergdorf (the canvassed model). You hear all these great things about Armani and it just fits like a regular suit (my personal opinion obviously). I tried on the 'Trader' model which has square shoulders, higher buttoning point and shorter jacket.

When I tried on TF for the first time, I was very impressed with the silhouette. The Zegna Torino model is also great if you like roped shoulders.

That said, Armani BL dress shirts are nice. Very delicate fabrics with MoP buttons.

 

It really depends on the suit you get. The new Giorgio Armani lines I like the design better. One cannot forget that Giorgio Armani is somewhat unique in cut compared to Zegna or Tom Ford (both amazing in their own regards). 

First of all the black label fully canvassed ones tend to be made of similar materials to the GA dresses. They have a more pronounced drape and the pants are baggier. The one i have does not have square shoulders but is very modern but has more fabric in the pants which give it a classic GA silhouette. 

Also I believe that the models sold at Bergdorf and Neiman are not all the same ones you'd find as a boutique. They seem much more mainstream. 

 

And yes, the dress shirts are great. 

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)