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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 69

post #1021 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbymilwaukee View Post
 

Hi, I'm looking to make a suit purchase in the next few weeks or months and was wondering what everyone thought was the best bet under $1000. I've been looking at Benjamin Sartorial, Howard Yount and Kent Wang. I really would like to find one with the most natural shoulder possible. Any thoughts?


that's a great question.  i'd like to know too. for the sake of discussion, i would really like to know what one can get for $1000 without waiting for a christmas/sample/once-a-lifetime sale. for the sake of the discussion, maybe we can exclude tax/tailoring, just to keep things simple. also, maybe we can avoid the "well, you know, for $200 more dollars, you can get this" recs...

post #1022 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post
 


While your experience seems vast Riva, allow me to expand. In corporate America 99% of people will not actively care about the brand or fabric of the suit you wear and most will gauge it by the fit. While that may be important for superficial individuals who dress solely for the purpose of impressing others, that doesn't really matter around here. Additionally, most people can notice the quality of a higher end suit. While they may be unable to express why it looks nicer, many people can see the movement and fabric in a high quality canvassed garment wears superior to a Zara suit. It looks organic and lively, moves with the wearer like his suit whereas a Zara fused suit looks flat, something high school kids wear too short to clubs with loud house music.

 

Cut is essential, you're spot on there. That is why we listing these by quality, because cut is subjective and also differ greatly across brands. A 20 something like me likes a slimmer fit while an middle aged gentleman may prefer a more classic fit. We can both get the same quality in a silhouette that flatters our bodies and preferences. The idea of listing these by a less subjective matter allows any man to pick out the right suit (from the quality they can afford in the cut they prefer). Obviously, Oxxford fits very different than an Attolini but they will meet the needs of different people. Bringing cut into this discussion is a moot point.

 

Image is the reason we all wear a specific style, yes, however I do it because I want to match the image I have for myself, not necessarily because it projects outward for others (example: I work in marketing and most people take business casual way too far. I dress up and often get derided by coworkers for being a "suit" which is negative. I also live in Minnesota, where rugged work wear is strong and a man wearing a suit to the bar gets quizzical looks at best. I am doing it for me because I like it, not because my immediate connections also approve).

 

Comfort is definitely a factor, however for myself (and I think nearly every human being) you'd find that a canvased garment is infinitely more comfortable than a fused one. Fusing doesn't breathe, making you overheat more and it doesn't move, resulting in a stiff look and feel. I own a fused Hugo Boss suit and a Luciano Barbera by Attolini suit. They're both navy, cut very similar and get about the same amount of comments (the Attolini gets more even though people don't ever know LB). The Attolini is significantly more comfortable and moves a million times better. I never wear the Boss anymore. A cheap MTM suit will never have that and will never make the wearer feel as good, regardless of how many compliments it garners.

 

Also, wearing an Isaia coral pin on a Zara suit is the same as wearing a fake Rolex. You do it for only the most superficial reasons and not because you have any real appreciation of what makes the authentic product valuable. That's fine if you do that but for me it would be unacceptable.

 

MZhammer, have we ever get regular folks to rate which suit that's the same plain black color looks nicer on a person? I bet they choose the nicer one based on which one fits better on the person wearing it. They won't notice why one may drape better due to the full canvas. This is why I mention cut because the person asking the question was looking for the best deal as a first suit. Obviously we look for other qualities as we already know which brands, models, lines fit us best.

 

Right now I'm in a tropical country where it's almost as hot as a desert, so the most comfortable jackets are unlined. Having said that a person buying a first suit is budget conscious and unless he's willing to spend some more to get a Benjamin Sartorial I'm not sure where you can get full canvassed suit for less than $525. Though I recommend him to spend that much and get a Benjamin with all the acceptable elements of a true suit.

 

I know billionaires who wear fake watches because people don't care what they wear, their names alone are worth much more. But don't be fooled that they don't know what good quality stuffs are. I personally have 1 Zara suit for going to the factories where it's hell and a bunch of Isaias, Cornelianis, etc etc so yes being on this forum I truly give a damn about what's good but we're talking about image and that's all that matters when talking about a first suit. Heck it's all that's important when getting an OTR or MTM suit be it an Armani or Canali as you can spend a bit more for a no-name bespoke that's way more badass looking. Let's face it, this thread exists solely for the purpose of helping people looking for the best deals off the net.

post #1023 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbymilwaukee View Post
 

Hi, I'm looking to make a suit purchase in the next few weeks or months and was wondering what everyone thought was the best bet under $1000. I've been looking at Benjamin Sartorial, Howard Yount and Kent Wang. I really would like to find one with the most natural shoulder possible. Any thoughts?

 

Sartorio suits on eBay can be had for under $1,000. Their natural shoulder is excellent, as is the drape and fabric.

post #1024 of 1317
For shopping under 1000$
Seller "sartoriale" on eBay always has exceptional suits in very competitive prices. We're talking Stile Latino, Sartorio, Caruso, Sartoria Partenopea and even Isaia for well under a grand. Seller "rosymimmo" offers Sartoria Parma and Ma.Co suits without reserve every week. "spenceclothing-italy" offers mainline Corneliani, PRL and more in very low prices, and they offer even more in their website spence.it (haven't bought anything from it, would appreciate any feedback). Finally, you can always resort to Yoox for Belvest, Sartoria Partenopea, Ravazzolo (my favourite), MP di Massimo Piombo (made by Kiton AFAIK), mainline Corneliani, Caruso, Canali, Cantarelli, Luciano Barbera and Sartorio, and many many diffusion lines. I like them as they come through with their refunds on time. Hope this helps, at least as a start.
post #1025 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonylamer View Post

Sartorio suits on eBay can be had for under $1,000. Their natural shoulder is excellent, as is the drape and fabric.

Yes $500, full canvas, made in italy. But where are the selections? frown.gif
post #1026 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post


Yes $500, full canvas, made in italy. But where are the selections? frown.gif

 

As of today, you can choose from 38 listed on eBay. Just keep checking because new stuff pops up daily.

post #1027 of 1317
Sartoriale on ebay is great for non-staple items. The best bet is still with Yoox and other online discounters.
post #1028 of 1317

I've looked at Yoox, but the details are not there, plus you cannot get any customer service to measure or give me codes on a suit before you buy it. 

 

I like Ebay sellers 'Frieshskys' and 'topshelfapparel'.  Get to know one or two brands.  I know all of the Canali codes and bodies and know what I'm getting.  Isaia should be easy to follow too.  There are a bunch of 19 and 14 series Canali suits out now, which are the drop 8 bodies.  19 is extra slim. 

post #1029 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonylamer View Post
 

 

As of today, you can choose from 38 listed on eBay. Just keep checking because new stuff pops up daily.


I only see 1 listing... unless you're referring to "Sartorio Napoli by Kiton"?

post #1030 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post
 


I only see 1 listing... unless you're referring to "Sartorio Napoli by Kiton"?

 

Yes, Sartorio is Sartorio Napoli by Kiton. Whoever made the list just shortened the name.

post #1031 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by tonylamer View Post
 

 

Yes, Sartorio is Sartorio Napoli by Kiton. Whoever made the list just shortened the name.

 

I don't see anything under $595 even haggled probably down to $500 for jacket only. This goes back to the argument of "if you can spend a bit more". Any full canvas full suit alternative for $525 max?

post #1032 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post

I don't see anything under $595 even haggled probably down to $500 for jacket only. This goes back to the argument of "if you can spend a bit more". Any full canvas full suit alternative for $525 max?

Nsuited has some belvests for 500 or so. EHaberdasher is close too.
post #1033 of 1317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post
 

 

I don't see anything under $595 even haggled probably down to $500 for jacket only. This goes back to the argument of "if you can spend a bit more". Any full canvas full suit alternative for $525 max?

 

What happened to $1,000?

 

I know from vast experience that you can buy those sportcoats for $500. You can pair them with a pair of Banana Republic flannels (<$100) and you'll get the look you want.

post #1034 of 1317

Does anyone have any experience with Sid Mashburn suits?

post #1035 of 1317
Benjamin is full canvas full suit at $525 so we're looking at that range now as to some people anything other than full canvas is crap (regardless of other properties like fabric, stitching, made in italy etc) and should be avoided. If jacket only I'd say there should be a new benchmark like for example $350? Bespoke starts at $1000.
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