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The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!) - Page 68

post #1006 of 1302
Stylistically I have no issue with PRL, I own a bunch. I find their RRP overpriced with regards to the intrinsic quality of fabrication. Mind you, PRL costs more over here in Europe than it does in the US, so part of my biais comes from their European pricing. When you can find PRL on sale, or at deep discount outlets, the value for money proposition begins to make sense again -- not at RRP IMHO.
post #1007 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirnelli View Post

Stylistically I have no issue with PRL, I own a bunch. I find their RRP overpriced with regards to the intrinsic quality of fabrication. Mind you, PRL costs more over here in Europe than it does in the US, so part of my biais comes from their European pricing. When you can find PRL on sale, or at deep discount outlets, the value for money proposition begins to make sense again -- not at RRP IMHO.

Can't the same be said for almost all clothing purchases? Paying RRP rarely offers much value unless one has the means and simply doesn't have or care to take the time to look for ways to save money. Time is money after all, but as we all know a little bit of time and/or due diligence can often pay off in the end. My wife and I used to clip coupons for the grocery store when things were tougher in the past, but now our time is a bit more valuable than that. We will, however, do our due diligence when it comes to things like buying a car, or take 5 seconds to look for a promo code when buying things online. My sense is that most on this board are indeed looking for the best value for money product with certain levels of quality, and if you're on this board most likely you do have a little time, and thus this list is indeed helpful to many! nod[1].gif
post #1008 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickrut View Post

Are there any suits in the "good" category that will be noticeably more affordable than the others? Trying to find the best bang for the buck from those who have experience.

 

This: Paul Smith mainline (fully canvassed)

 

But you have to login into regional ebay sites to see the deals. They won't show up in US sites. I was able to get some full suit for $350-400 which is the usual price for lower line London models. Even if they show up for much more you can always haggle and get up to 40% less.

post #1009 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post
It's hard to say that you should pay X for good quality and Y for great when there are so many different factors (style, cloth, brand name) that affect the price. Quality is a little easier to isolate and you can make your purchasing decisions off of that.

 

Based on my experience nobody (from low level employees to conglomerates) gives a damn about what brand you wear or even the fabric as long as it looks damn good on you which means the cut is the single most important factor followed by comfort. I've been using Isaia coral pin on anything even on a cheap Zara and I've been getting nothing but compliments. But you probably need to own a reputable business to back up the image. Image is the reason we all wear suits anyway, in business or picking up chicks.

 

Any cheap 100% wool MTM that fits your body will do the job well if the well fitting branded suits are more expensive. That's how you should base your decisions. Now unless your name is renowned you want to pair that cheap suit with a really good dress watch that's not Rolex.

post #1010 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by XFactor View Post
 

 

Interesting points - Maybe the hierarchy should also point out in each category which ones can be FOUND if searched for a Relative Bargain. 

At what price point could one get a Boggi (assuming a sale/ someone looked around) - where / how? 

 

Believe me it's hard to find Boggi on sale for the ones that actually look good. The only real sale I found was 6 months ago somewhere in A Boggi store in Austria. But I was so busy browsing through sale Cornelianis to pay attention.

post #1011 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post
 

 

I think you'd be incorrect. Asking a random sampling on the street who makes the best audio equipment I'd bet you'd hear Beats by Dre and Bose, just like the best suits would probably be Armani and the best watch is Rolex or Omega.

 

And audiophiles think $300k Wilsons are the best speakers ever made while they playback music just as inaccurately as a Bose. Amazing what they can achieve with Wow Factor. The same can be said with suits.

post #1012 of 1302
If anyone is interested, I recently reached a conclusion regarding Massimo Dutti's Personal Tailoring line. In case you don't know, their suits are half canvassed, made in Portugal from cheap Italian cloth. The construction of the jacket is very satisfying, with surgeon's cuffs, MOP buttons, barely visible machine padstitching in the lapel and pick stitching all around. The pants are the suit's Achilles heel, since they were worn out by the third time I put the suit on. Returned it for a refund icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif . I would place it somewhere between Acceptable and Mediocre, but still better than their basic line(fused, no synthetic fibers) or Zara.
post #1013 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by Riva View Post
 

 

Based on my experience nobody (from low level employees to conglomerates) gives a damn about what brand you wear or even the fabric as long as it looks damn good on you which means the cut is the single most important factor followed by comfort. I've been using Isaia coral pin on anything even on a cheap Zara and I've been getting nothing but compliments. But you probably need to own a reputable business to back up the image. Image is the reason we all wear suits anyway, in business or picking up chicks.

 

Any cheap 100% wool MTM that fits your body will do the job well if the well fitting branded suits are more expensive. That's how you should base your decisions. Now unless your name is renowned you want to pair that cheap suit with a really good dress watch that's not Rolex.


While your experience seems vast Riva, allow me to expand. In corporate America 99% of people will not actively care about the brand or fabric of the suit you wear and most will gauge it by the fit. While that may be important for superficial individuals who dress solely for the purpose of impressing others, that doesn't really matter around here. Additionally, most people can notice the quality of a higher end suit. While they may be unable to express why it looks nicer, many people can see the movement and fabric in a high quality canvassed garment wears superior to a Zara suit. It looks organic and lively, moves with the wearer like his suit whereas a Zara fused suit looks flat, something high school kids wear too short to clubs with loud house music.

 

Cut is essential, you're spot on there. That is why we listing these by quality, because cut is subjective and also differ greatly across brands. A 20 something like me likes a slimmer fit while an middle aged gentleman may prefer a more classic fit. We can both get the same quality in a silhouette that flatters our bodies and preferences. The idea of listing these by a less subjective matter allows any man to pick out the right suit (from the quality they can afford in the cut they prefer). Obviously, Oxxford fits very different than an Attolini but they will meet the needs of different people. Bringing cut into this discussion is a moot point.

 

Image is the reason we all wear a specific style, yes, however I do it because I want to match the image I have for myself, not necessarily because it projects outward for others (example: I work in marketing and most people take business casual way too far. I dress up and often get derided by coworkers for being a "suit" which is negative. I also live in Minnesota, where rugged work wear is strong and a man wearing a suit to the bar gets quizzical looks at best. I am doing it for me because I like it, not because my immediate connections also approve).

 

Comfort is definitely a factor, however for myself (and I think nearly every human being) you'd find that a canvased garment is infinitely more comfortable than a fused one. Fusing doesn't breathe, making you overheat more and it doesn't move, resulting in a stiff look and feel. I own a fused Hugo Boss suit and a Luciano Barbera by Attolini suit. They're both navy, cut very similar and get about the same amount of comments (the Attolini gets more even though people don't ever know LB). The Attolini is significantly more comfortable and moves a million times better. I never wear the Boss anymore. A cheap MTM suit will never have that and will never make the wearer feel as good, regardless of how many compliments it garners.

 

Also, wearing an Isaia coral pin on a Zara suit is the same as wearing a fake Rolex. You do it for only the most superficial reasons and not because you have any real appreciation of what makes the authentic product valuable. That's fine if you do that but for me it would be unacceptable.


Edited by MZhammer - 10/18/13 at 8:36am
post #1014 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
While your experience seems vast Riva, allow me to expand. In corporate America 99% of people will not actively care about the brand or fabric of the suit you wear and most will gauge it by the fit. While that may be important for superficial individuals who dress solely for the purpose of impressing others, that doesn't really matter around here. Additionally, most people can notice the quality of a higher end suit. While they may be unable to express why it looks nicer, many people can see the movement and fabric in a high quality canvassed garment wears superior to a Zara suit. It looks organic and lively, moves with the wearer like his suit whereas a Zara fused suit looks flat, something high school kids wear too short to clubs with loud house music. Image is the reason we all wear a specific style however I do it because I want to match the image I have for myself, not necessarily because it projects outward for others (example: I work in marketing and most people take business casual way too far. I dress up and often get derided by coworkers for being a "suit" which is negative. I also live in Minnesota, where rugged work wear is strong and a man wearing a suit to the bar gets quizzical looks at best. I am doing it for me because I like it, not because my immediate connections also approve).

Comfort is definitely a factor, however for myself (and I think nearly every human being) you'd find that a canvased garment is infinitely more comfortable than a fused one. Fusing doesn't breathe, making you overheat more and it doesn't move, resulting in a stiff look and feel. I own a fused Hugo Boss suit and a Luciano Barbera by Attolini suit. They're both navy, cut very similar and get about the same amount of comments (the Attolini gets more even though people don't ever know LB). The Attolini is significantly more comfortable and moves a million times better. I never wear the Boss anymore. A cheap MTM suit will never have that and will never make the wearer feel as good, regardless of how many compliments it garners.

Also, wearing an Isaia coral pin on a Zara suit is the same as wearing a fake Rolex. You do it for only the most superficial reasons and not because you have any real appreciation of what makes the authentic product valuable. That's fine if you do that but for me it would be unacceptable.

+1 all around.
post #1015 of 1302
Fit, cut, construction and the rest in thst order.
post #1016 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

Fit, cut, construction and the rest in thst order.

Fabric doesn't rate? 

post #1017 of 1302
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerP View Post

Fabric doesn't rate? 
Oops

Fit, fabric, cut, construction and the rest.
post #1018 of 1302

hmm...

I think there's a few makers I can add... 

 

how about Abla **** - *****

post #1019 of 1302

where do you guys find the best places to buy these suits for cheap?  i've tried ebay but 44L is quite a difficult size to track down.  i bought a hickey freeman the other day from bluefly as i always thought they were top notch, did some research only to find the "milburn" model i got for $450 isn't the best deal out there, so i returned with no problems fortunately.  thanks for any help.

post #1020 of 1302

Hi, I'm looking to make a suit purchase in the next few weeks or months and was wondering what everyone thought was the best bet under $1000. I've been looking at Benjamin Sartorial, Howard Yount and Kent Wang. I really would like to find one with the most natural shoulder possible. Any thoughts?

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