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Maltese Falcon-wear

post #1 of 40
Thread Starter 
So FNB wrote an interesting little piece over on his site about Maltese Falcon-wear. Did a then n now type thing, and opted to replace this:

...with an SB.

What do you guys think? While I know the DB is not generally regarded as a younger guys suit, personally I think the really high shape of this 6 button remains very very stylish even 60 odd years on..hell Im 29 and Id wear it (and at the cost I make suits at, I may well accidentally end up with one)

post #2 of 40
I think it's really stylish, too. SB is more open and "fun", though, so I understand where FNB is coming from. Bogie's suit just needs some updating.
post #3 of 40
Thread Starter 
but does updating automatically mean..uh...losing a breast?
post #4 of 40
No, I think: less padding, a more modern fabric, a little more shape, slightly lower pockets and buttons, and sliimer trousers. Pilati has been turning out some cool DBs for YSL lately, although with a more squarish, French shoulder.
post #5 of 40
Originally Posted by m@T
but does updating automatically mean..uh...losing a breast?
I'd say lose half a breast make it a slim cross-over. Keep the high six buttons and push the top button out just an inch or so from the lower two.

Personally I'm too wide for much double breastedness.
post #6 of 40
I think DBs look pretty awesome (when done well which is very rarely nowadays) but I couldn't wear one for most of my suit-wearing occasions (work).

I do plan to get one some day but it's not exactly priority number one for me right now.

I would guess that FNB was dispensing general advice since I believe I've sen pictures of him in multiple Corvato DBs.
post #7 of 40
I have a half dozen suits based on that cut - most of them striped. I literally took a picture of Bogart in the high stanced suit to my tailor to discribe it, because I didn't want to have a low stanced DB.

the downside is, like Tom said, I am too wide for this type of suit to look great, but it does hide a mutlitude of sins.
post #8 of 40
I think the stouter man can look good in DBs precisely because it hides.
post #9 of 40
Originally Posted by tiger02
I'd say lose half a breast make it a slim cross-over. Keep the high six buttons and push the top button out just an inch or so from the lower two.

Personally I'm too wide for much double breastedness.

I'm with you, tiger. I tend to think the DB has suffered its unfortunate fate mostly because of efforts to modernize it. My favorite, by far, is the classic, high-buttoning 6 on 2. As Whoopee suggests, thin down the shoulder, trim up the pants and there you go.
post #10 of 40
I like the DB myself. If it's well cut any silhouette and jacket style can look good on a man (maybe some extreme exceptions but in those cases maybe nothing looks good on that type of man).

In any case, the article was departure from my personal tastes. And though the DB is still very stylish in my book, it isnt practical for the purposes of what I was trying to portray which wasnt just what the same clothes from 1941 would look like 60 years later (which is a good idea, and one I considered and havent ruled out going forward btw) but also what the same characters in the movie might wear today.
post #11 of 40
I think this is a self-reinforcing trend. At Barney's Beverly Hills yesterday (not a great suit place/not a great demand for suits admittedly), the salesman stalking the Kitons said they didn't carry any. He was adamant that they don't sell. The only way to get a DB out of their store was MTM.

If there aren't any on the shelves, people aren't going to buy them. It takes a denizen of these boards to either go MTM or bespoke to get a DB these days.
post #12 of 40
Interesting piece.

For those who don't already know, Turner Classic Movies (my favorite cable channel) is a wonderful source of old films and great fashion - Just saw some amazingly good - and bad - DBs in Hithcock's Spellbound.

Gregory Peck - young, tall and rail thin - looked fantastic in his DB (though all his suits were way over padded in the shoulders), but so did Leo G. Carroll, an older, much smaller framed man. There were a few bit players who wore DBs and were too portly to lok very good in them.

Incidentally, I work with archival photos and it is intersting to note that not only did DBs seem to reach their peak in the 30s and 40s, but by the late 40s was when I am seeing most of the abominations beginning - the 4 button models, fastening only the lowest button a la Duke of Windsor, etc etc....

I myself have three DBs from the 90s - one classic which I love and two monstrosities with NFL shoulder pads left over from the 80s and teensy waists with only one button (bottom) to fasten....ugh. What was I thinking?
post #13 of 40
awesome. here's another great look or two.....and a modern version i hope to emulate in a few months from Oxxford....

post #14 of 40
post #15 of 40
Damn,I just wish I looked like Bogey in anything! Hey, with the young Lauren Bacall hanging off your arm, no ones gonna notice if you're wearin' single or double breasted.
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