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Visting Chan's Shanghai shop on 4/27 - Page 2

post #16 of 21
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by pkincy
The beauty of SF is that the weather is virtually the same year round. From a low high of 50's in Jan to a high of 70's most days in July, with only the occasional scorcher when the wind is out of the East.

So a 10 oz will work virtually year round. I used to wear my winter suits in the summer. It felt hot getting on (and worse getting off in the evening) the BART in Walnut Creek but by the time I detrained in SF it was again cool and comfortable.

Natural AC is wonderful.

The heavier fabric will give you the drape you look for. Go to Barcelino's (Tell Reggie, if you are on Montgomery, that the suit he sent me this week is wonderful!) and ask for him to show you suits and explain the fabric finish a bit as well as estimate the cloth weight. Do wear your Belvest and as a customer he will happily give you some of the info you need to pull a great fabric off a swatch. Which, by the way, I find the most intimidating thing about bespoke.

I would concentrate hard on the finish you want. That will make a huge difference in the final product. After fabric finish, concentrate on weight. That is the second most distinguishing characteristic of the final suit. Than 3rd look for fabric composition and color.

I second the use of a fairly standard 100-120's to begin with in a very stock fabric book. Armed with the finish, and weight from your visit to Reggie (or Steve if you are up at the Post Store), coupled with your fabric composition and color from the swatch, you will have a great first suit.

I think the beauty of bespoke is its wonderful fit which makes it wear so well for the whole day. So I would get a very mainstay suit color, finish and fabric. Say a navy or gray in a relatively hard finish for durability and standard 100% wool composition and 9-10 oz (300-320 gm) weight.


Work has been killin' me these past week. I wish I had time to go to barcelino this weekend. It had not occured to me to go back and ask them for help. Buying the Belvest was not the game plan. I was to go with my satorically savvy uncle to buy elsewhere. We stopped by for a look, because he enjoys Belvest so much, he wanted to show me their latest styles. We both knew Belvest was twice more than I was hoping to pay, but there's no hard in browsing. it didn't take a lot of convincing after looking in the mirror. We later went to get some more shirts + ties and a basic 3 button Canali that afternoon. Wow, after paying full retail, my creditcard took a beating...but there's no feeling like spending a paycheck in one afternoon of shopping.
post #17 of 21
Thread Starter 
Well I made my 11am appt. Taking the taxi from the Ritz, I can see a lot of Tailoring and suit shops on MaoMing Lu including US Polo.

Upon entering, I see another gentlemen picking out suit fabrics on bolts. Freddie and Peter were on hand to greet me in english. Both I found out were from HK, originally. If you look on their website and go to the custom suit page, Peter is the guy holding the clipboard and is smiling ear to ear. Could he be the same Peter who does the US tour? Freddie is a bit shorter, and has a british accent. Maybe it's from living in HK. I'll ask them later.

I wore my Belvest, without the vest. No pun intended. I had gained 15 lbs since I bought the suit, and it was tight. Oh well. I have to cut the beer from my diet.

Peter me about what kind of occasions I will wear this new suit, and the climate of my home. I was hoping for a suit for special occasions. I can wear my other suits to dinners or weddings, but that I don't need to wear one for work.

After feeling my lapel, he tels me the weight is all season and pulled out the swatches for Vitale Barberis "Revenge" which he claims are their standard materials at roughly 5760 RMB. Next he showed me the Zegna Trofeo and Torpical. I asked for swatches of their blue. He them in bolts: a dark/light and medium blues, all with fantastic sheen. He said these were bought in bulk; if used at their HK office, they would have to go through an agent; and charge 12000 RMB. Their Shanghai price = 7500 RMB. I forgot if 7500 was written on the swatch book, or if it was reduced.

At that point, I was sold. I should have looked at the Loro Piana and the Scabal on the shelf, but i started to like some of the Zegna grey w/ blue, orange pinstripes that I didn't want to any further. At that point, I went back to basic. Thanks (whopee & pkincy).

Next was shirt fabrics. I pulled three choices from their swatchs at 680 RMB, buy 2 get one free. They didn't volunteer this info during the 15 minutes I was looking. I had to ask. (Thanks Kent)

So next they confirmed I was only staying 3.5 days. They said that some tailoring was set aside for me, but they would be agressive to make it for a final fitting by the time I leave.

The measurements came next, and a lot of comments about their recommended house style compares to my suit. I went with a two button SB house style jacket with double vents. 4 working button holes per sleeve in a "waterfall overlap." (closer than kissing.)

The pants to match my Belvest, 2 pleats per side with besom pockets.

They critic'd the shirt i wore just as much as my suit. It is a doublecuff OTR Brioni that was take in on the sides. I strayed from their standard colar by 1/8 inch. Everything else will be similiar to my shirt.

They asked that I come back tonight for the first fitting at 5pm. I'm flexible, as I'm only going shopping today. I'll bring my pants and shirt for them as references.

I think the plan is for a second fitting tommorrow night, and a final by Sunday noon.

Something to mention. They wanted half in cash payment as a deposit. The rest can be paid upon completion, in cc if I wish.

More to follow in about 8 hours...
post #18 of 21
Sounds great. 7500 RMB is an excellent price for Zegna Trofeo. 5760 for VBC Revenge is also a commensurate step down the price range compared to their HK shop. I wonder what their Scabal and H&S cloths are going for there. Hope you are enjoying Shanghai. Every time I visit there are so many new things that have popped up. Quite a city.
post #19 of 21
Thread Starter 
Well i came back from the first fitting. They had the cloth already on the canvas. They also had one shirt made for fitting. The collar and cuffs were a mesh material. I am going with french cuffs, so the mesh material was added for a length measurement.

I really like the midnight blue, Trofeo. The sheen was dark and silky.

The tailor initally made the pants just like my Belvest. Which was roomy below the butt. They recommended that it be taken in, but it was my choice. They pinched it (the pants) and I'm happy to go with that.

I included three pics from tonight's fitting. The next one is tommorrow night.

On a side note, I went to the new Fabric market and brought one of my shoe dust covers as a sample. I thought it would be neat to get a few sets more made my family and I. I found a stall that had similar fabric to the cotton flannel but with different choices in colors. They had no problem sewing in the tie rope. I had them make 8 sets at 10 yuan a set including fabric and labor. I didn't really bargain, since I figured that not even 1.50 a set. That's just silly pricing to me.

I asked Freddy about Scabal and H&S. He didn't pull out the H&R book. but did bring out the Scabal S130s and Scabal Black Label. I'm almost certain it about 7560 or 7260. I have food coma at the moment.
post #20 of 21
Thanks. That's a killer price for that cloth and workmanship.
post #21 of 21
Awesome. Looking forward to final pics.
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