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First Double Breasted Suit, Need Help

post #1 of 41
Thread Starter 
I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out.

1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things.

2) I wear a 50XL, a DB will still work for someone who is 6'8" and 265lbs, correct?

3) Should a DB fit closer to the body than a SB?

4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit?

5) Single or Double Vent?

6) Number of buttons?

All I know for sure is that I want peak lapels. Are there other important factors that I am not taking into account?

Thanks
post #2 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomDiggs View Post
I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out. 1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things. 2) I wear a 50XL, a DB will still work for someone who is 6'8" and 265lbs, correct? 3) Should a DB fit closer to the body than a SB? 4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit? 5) Single or Double Vent? 6) Number of buttons? All I know for sure is that I want peak lapels. Are there other important factors that I am not taking into account? Thanks
1. I wouldn't know enough about the law profession to answer this. 2. DB's work for everyone and every body type. Don't let anyone convince you otherwise. 3. Most definitely. DB's must fit much more perfectly than a SB, as any flaws in tailoring or fit will stand out a lot more with a DB. A DB coat is the time to be completely OCD about fit. 4. Gray flannel would be great for a first DB suit, IMO. 5. Either double vents or unvented. Single vents look absolutely awful on DB coats, IMO. 6. For your size, I'd go with a classic 6x2. As for peak lapels--well, double-breasted coats with notch lapels simply shouldn't exist. Peak is a must. One other thing, in addition to the number of buttons, is the position of the buttons. For your physique, I'd suggest buttons that are a bit farther apart horizontally to make sure the button positions are proportional to your body. On a large guy, if the buttons are too close together (horizontally), it will just look very off. Same for a small guy with buttons that are too widely spaced.
post #3 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomDiggs View Post
I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out.

1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things.

2) I wear a 50XL, a DB will still work for someone who is 6'8" and 265lbs, correct?

3) Should a DB fit closer to the body than a SB?

4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit?

5) Single or Double Vent?

6) Number of buttons?

All I know for sure is that I want peak lapels. Are there other important factors that I am not taking into account?

Thanks

1) don't know

2) don't know

3) no, it should fit, that's it

4) dark grey works, too

5) double

6) six
post #4 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomDiggs View Post
I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out.

1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things.

Yes.

Quote:
4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit?

5) Single or Double Vent?

6) Number of buttons?

Either navy windowpane or a grey flannel would look great.

I prefer the double vent on a DB suit.

6x2 is the best arrangement for buttons.
post #5 of 41
For your height, don't leap into a windowpane design. It might look like someone's stamp collection. Navy or dark grey solid would work (flannel is fine, worsted especially so if it's going to see some use), or try chalk stripes widely spaced if you're going to wear during the day only and if it suits your own style.
post #6 of 41
While I'd say DB's are appropriate for lawyers in general, if you're a young lawyer just starting out I'd advise against it, if only because nobody wears them and you might not want to stand out too much. Especially if you're working for a firm and all. Once you get settled in after a few years and have a little seniority, then I'd go for it.
post #7 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by needshoehelp View Post
While I'd say DB's are appropriate for lawyers in general, if you're a young lawyer just starting out I'd advise against it, if only because nobody wears them and you might not want to stand out too much. Especially if you're working for a firm and all. Once you get settled in after a few years and have a little seniority, then I'd go for it.

This is good advice. If you don't know your colleagues, I'd at least get the lay of the land before breaking out the DBs -- especially if you're a younger guy who went straight from undergrad to law school.
post #8 of 41
2. Bespoke double-breasted can work on virtually anyone, but he didn't say it would be bespoke. Nor has he provided pictures to see how easily the type might flatter him.
5. Vents also calls for pictures.

Fabric weight is another important consideration. All else being equal, double-breasted probably will feel warmer than single-breasted. In general, DB is not advisable for a new attorney, but at 6'8", unless it doesn't go well with his body type, probably few people would give it much attention.
post #9 of 41
[quote=BoomDiggs;2453528]I just passed the bar and I am looking to expand my suit collection fairly quickly. I don't have any double breasted suits, so I am thinking that one of my next two new suits will be a DB. However, I don't really know much about them so I was wondering if you could help me out.

1) DB is wholly appropriate for a lawyer, right? If it matters, I will be working on the transactional side of things.

2) I wear a 50XL, a DB will still work for someone who is 6'8" and 265lbs, correct?

3) Should a DB fit closer to the body than a SB?

4) I own a navy suit but not a gray flannel. Would one still suggest I go with the classic navy for the first suit?

5) Single or Double Vent?

6) Number of buttons?

1) Yes,
2) Yes,
3) same,
4) I would get navy and gray flannel,
5) double vent because you are tall,
6) 6x2 is the best
post #10 of 41
i think with your statue, a DB suit wouldn't stand out even if you're a new lawyer, however you might want some other lawyers input.

Agree with the general consensus, make sure if you get RTW to get a good tailor and make sure it fits perfectly, otherwise I would go bespoke or MTM, it's easy to ruin a DB.

it's not going to fit more closely persay but it'll have an overall different feel than SB, since your going to be keeping it buttoned, and it wraps around/overlaps.

I would go with double vents

6x2 is classic
I also am a fan of a 6x1 like http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/2/4...6516339_tp.jpg
but thats just me.
post #11 of 41
DB is usualy a boxier fit and not very figure flattering and is appropiate for a lawyer, if your a lawyer of the 80's or 90's. DB suit just arent in style these days, for your size it would work out but your better off with a two or three button SB.
post #12 of 41
Only other decisions you have to make are flat front or pleated trousers (I'd always go flat), two piece or three (3 piece feels like 80s banker to me) and whether you go with one lapel buttonhole or one on each side.

I think in contrast to what others have said that the DB suit can be very modern, if it's cut with a lot of waist suppression and short body. Not sure that either is appropriate for a young lawyer, but I have no knowledge of that profession. I just know that people at my work dress a certain way but I don't really care because I'd rather follow my own stylistic instincts anyways (as a young lawyer you may have a very different perspective on this, which is quite understandable).
post #13 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtielover View Post
DB is usualy a boxier fit and not very figure flattering and is appropiate for a lawyer, if your a lawyer of the 80's or 90's. DB suit just arent in style these days, for your size it would work out but your better off with a two or three button SB.

post #14 of 41
May have already been noted in posts, but check out this month's American or British version of GQ. Decent article focused on a more modern look. While pricey, Ford and Brioni have some pretty neat DB jackets and suits on the mkt these days.
post #15 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtielover View Post
DB is usualy a boxier fit and not very figure flattering and is appropiate for a lawyer, if your a lawyer of the 80's or 90's. DB suit just arent in style these days, for your size it would work out but your better off with a two or three button SB.
You, good sir, are insane. Either that, or you've only seen terrible double-breasteds.
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