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Oxxford, Brioni & Borrelli!!!!

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I would like to know the real difference between these names please. Can anyone help? Is there a real physical difference when it comes to suits, trousers, jackets etc? Or is this a real game amongst the social classes of who wears what??? Sorry if I am offending anyone here on SF but I am really trying to learn the difference here and I do apologise in advance if anyone finds this thread absurd. Mea Culpa per omnia saecula saeculorum!!!!
post #2 of 10
Oxxford is made in the United States. It has a lot of handwork, but has been criticized in the past for a "Boardroom" image and a relatively unexciting silhouette. That has changed recently with the addition of European details (such as double vents) and more European silhouettes.

Brioni makes a Roman jacket - meaning it has a clean chest and more structured shoulder than, say, clothing from Naples.

Borrelli, by contrast, does have the Naples cut (as do Isaia, Kiton) - a much softer shoulder, with less padding and structure to the silhouette.

They are all made extremely well. The differences largely have to do with style and the look you are trying to achieve and the silhouette that works best with your body-type.
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by zjpj83
Oxxford is made in the United States. It has a lot of handwork, but has been criticized in the past for a "Boardroom" image and a relatively unexciting silhouette. That has changed recently with the addition of European details (such as double vents) and more European silhouettes.

Brioni makes a Roman jacket - meaning it has a clean chest and more structured shoulder than, say, clothing from Naples.

Borrelli, by contrast, does have the Naples cut (as do Isaia, Kiton) - a much softer shoulder, with less padding and structure to the silhouette.

They are all made extremely well. The differences largely have to do with style and the look you are trying to achieve and the silhouette that works best with your body-type.

What are the price ranges for the three separate brands involved here please?

So if I have gotten this right - Brioni jackets are not canvassed and has full padded shoulders? Borrelli has the more natural shoulders but are they canvassed? Oxxford is a blend of the two now as business strategies grow and mature - right?
post #4 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcgreg
What are the price ranges for the three separate brands involved here please?

So if I have gotten this right - Brioni jackets are not canvassed and has full padded shoulders? Borrelli has the more natural shoulders but are they canvassed? Oxxford is a blend of the two now as business strategies grow and mature - right?
They are all canvased.

You might find manton's explanation of suit silhouettes helpful: http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...76&postcount=6

Oxxford is the best buy of the bunch. $2-$4K max, I think. Not 100% sure on their range, but they are "low priced" for what they are. Borrelli I think hovers around upper 3,000s to 4K. Kiton is crazy and is 5 or 6K even.

Isaia is 2K+ and is the "budget" Naples suit (also full canvased, by the way). Borrelli is a bit more, and Kiton and Attolini even more.
post #5 of 10
I haven't purchased any of these brands, but last I checked Brioni was near the top, with RTW starting between $3500 and $4500, Borrelli comes next with RTW staring between $2500 and $3500 (I think), and Oxxford is the cheapest of the three with RTW starting around $2200 (again, I think).

All three will be canvassed.
post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys!!! Fantastic!
post #7 of 10
Two weeks ago I responded to a similar thread on AAAC. Much of this response is cut and pasted from the AAAC thread. In that thread, the original poster inquired about Oxxford, Brioni, and Kiton rather than Borrelli. In my AAAC response I spoke to Kiton. Nevertheless, my few personal Borrelli remarks this morning from Minsk are remarkably similar to my Kiton remarks on AAAC. Ultimately, though, I went to American bespoke for a number of minor reasons. Bear in mind that these remarks cover more than thirty years of personal experience.

My first Oxxford was purchased OTR in 1971. I continued purchasing Oxxford until 2000 when I elected to take the leap to bespoke. Having purchased both OTR and MTM Oxxford garments (by my count around 17 suits, 23 odd jackets, and only 10 or 12 pair of trousers), I was never disappointed with the quality and continue to be amazed with the durability. The finish tailors were always problematic for me. Ironically, most of the OTR garments fit as well as or better than the MTM pieces. I have a terrible problem with the slope of my upper back that results in the ugly little roll requiring a "Lower the Collar" alteration. Even the Oxxford MTM coats had this dilemma every time. It didn't matter that some of the MTM coats were "measured" by the Oxxford representative at a trunk show!

In the mid-1990s, I decided to be slightly more fashion forward and, intermittently, purchased a few Brioni OTR suits (no odd jackets). All of them are the regular cloth. I've never worn one of the Escorial cloth pieces. Although I receive a fair number of compliments when I wear Oxxford garments, I cannot help but receive a compliment when I wear one of my few Brioni suits. The ugly little roll was still present in each Brioni before the tailors corrected it. Brioni is not as comfortable as Oxxford for me. But, I do really enjoy the silhouette in the mirror.

In 2000 I decided to see what all the talk was about concerning something called Kiton, Borrelli, and Barbera. Looking at them on the rack, Borrelli did not stand out in my eyes. The price was way too high for me to justify any experiment when I was already pleased with both Oxxford and Brioni. As with Kiton and Barbera, a friend suggested I make such an experiment with Borrelli via eBay. In a period of about fifteen months, I purchased two Borrelli suits and three odd jackets on eBay. All were new items. The price was very "right" on all the items. I paid about three hundred dollars per suit and as little as about seventy dollars for a new odd jacket. All of the Borrelli items have a slim cut relative to Oxxford and Brioni. Suddenly eBay was discovered and prices went through the roof. I don't believe you can touch a new Borrelli suit on eBay for less than four or five hundred dollars now. The cut and style of Borrelli when draped on my torso do not impress me as much a Brioni. The amount of handwork in Borrelli is little, if any, more than in Oxxford. However, much like Kiton handwork in Borrelli is more obvious than Oxxford and Brioni to most eyes. In general, the Borrelli garments are only slightly more comfortable on me.

In order to achieve the sturdy elegance of Oxxford, the slightly more pleasing silhouette of Brioni, and the minimal comfort advantage of Borrelli, I finally went bespoke. Bespoke is not a magic pill. It took one suit and two odd jackets before my tailor really had my pattern properly adjusted. Now, with three bespoke fittings being more of a formality rather than a necessity, I get exactly what I want - when I want it - at a price that is comparable to Oxxford MTM and less than Brioni and Borrelli.

At day’s end, Mr. Greg, your body shape and the mirror will tell a truth that is unique to you. Try all the garments when and if you are able. By the way, I still wear old number one from Oxxford. It's a gray herringbone tweed odd jacket. My tailor made it a “more comfortable fit” a few years ago. My body shape has changed very little since that coat was purchased. Even the old Oxxford trousers had enough to accommodate the extra inch and one-half that appeared on my waist over the years.
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post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
Wow - thanks Full Canvas for the explanation. I have now understood what this is all about. A little explanation is probably necessary on my part. I get my suits bespoke when I travel to Asia. My tailors are really good and when I was based in Switzerland I always had suits made to measure. I never really bought off the rack. I like what I like and so am a stickler as to what styles and design I must have and have never really followed fashion or 'vogue' in the true sense of the word. When I recently came over to the forum - which was introduced to me accidentally because I was purchasing a pair of shoes from Plal store and so was forwarded to the forum for advice, I started reading all this styles and started recognising all the brands that people go on about - so I really wanted to know what all the fuss was about. I guess - having had two sportcoats made for me by Tom James in the US using the Ventura cloth - I think I can understand where you stand with Oxxford. I am kinda partial to the American sense of dress style. Thanks for the info and explanation and am very grateful and appreciative of it.
post #9 of 10
kcgreg,

>I guess - having had two sportcoats made for me by Tom >James in the US using the Ventura cloth - I think I can >understand where you stand with Oxxford

I think Oxxford is way above Tom James , I know they have the same parent company but the 1 jacket I had them make are no wear even close to the Oxxford suits I have purchased.

If you can find a fit and model of Oxxford you like I would say that would be the best choice. I would also ask you check out Belvest which is my favorite and I personally put right after Oxxford on my list.
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rssmsvc
kcgreg,

>I guess - having had two sportcoats made for me by Tom >James in the US using the Ventura cloth - I think I can >understand where you stand with Oxxford

I think Oxxford is way above Tom James , I know they have the same parent company but the 1 jacket I had them make are no wear even close to the Oxxford suits I have purchased.

If you can find a fit and model of Oxxford you like I would say that would be the best choice. I would also ask you check out Belvest which is my favorite and I personally put right after Oxxford on my list.



I never realised that the Oxxford cuts were so good. These sportcoats I had made was a long time ago. Thanks for the info guys. Brilliant!
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