Two weeks ago I responded to a similar thread on AAAC. Much of this response is cut and pasted from the AAAC thread. In that thread, the original poster inquired about Oxxford, Brioni, and Kiton rather than Borrelli. In my AAAC response I spoke to Kiton. Nevertheless, my few personal Borrelli remarks this morning from Minsk are remarkably similar to my Kiton remarks on AAAC. Ultimately, though, I went to American bespoke for a number of minor reasons. Bear in mind that these remarks cover more than thirty years of personal experience.
My first Oxxford was purchased OTR in 1971. I continued purchasing Oxxford until 2000 when I elected to take the leap to bespoke. Having purchased both OTR and MTM Oxxford garments (by my count around 17 suits, 23 odd jackets, and only 10 or 12 pair of trousers), I was never disappointed with the quality and continue to be amazed with the durability. The finish tailors were always problematic for me. Ironically, most of the OTR garments fit as well as or better than the MTM pieces. I have a terrible problem with the slope of my upper back that results in the ugly little roll requiring a "Lower the Collar" alteration. Even the Oxxford MTM coats had this dilemma every time
. It didn't matter that some of the MTM coats were "measured" by the Oxxford representative at a trunk show!
In the mid-1990s, I decided to be slightly more fashion forward and, intermittently, purchased a few Brioni OTR suits (no odd jackets). All of them are the regular cloth. I've never worn one of the Escorial cloth pieces. Although I receive a fair number of compliments when I wear Oxxford garments, I cannot help but receive a compliment when I wear one of my few Brioni suits. The ugly little roll was still present in each Brioni before the tailors corrected it. Brioni is not as comfortable as Oxxford for me. But, I do really enjoy the silhouette in the mirror.
In 2000 I decided to see what all the talk was about concerning something called Kiton, Borrelli, and Barbera. Looking at them on the rack, Borrelli did not stand out in my eyes. The price was way too high for me to justify any experiment when I was already pleased with both Oxxford and Brioni. As with Kiton and Barbera, a friend suggested I make such an experiment with Borrelli via eBay. In a period of about fifteen months, I purchased two Borrelli suits and three odd jackets on eBay. All were new items. The price was very "right" on all the items. I paid about three hundred dollars per suit and as little as about seventy dollars for a new odd jacket. All of the Borrelli items have a slim cut relative to Oxxford and Brioni. Suddenly eBay was discovered and prices went through the roof. I don't believe you can touch a new Borrelli suit on eBay for less than four or five hundred dollars now. The cut and style of Borrelli when draped on my torso do not impress me as much a Brioni. The amount of handwork in Borrelli is little, if any, more than in Oxxford. However, much like Kiton handwork in Borrelli is more obvious than Oxxford and Brioni to most eyes. In general, the Borrelli garments are only slightly more comfortable on me.
In order to achieve the sturdy elegance of Oxxford, the slightly more pleasing silhouette of Brioni, and the minimal comfort advantage of Borrelli, I finally went bespoke. Bespoke is not a magic pill. It took one suit and two odd jackets before my tailor really had my pattern properly adjusted. Now, with three bespoke fittings being more of a formality rather than a necessity, I get exactly what I want - when I want it - at a price that is comparable to Oxxford MTM and less than Brioni and Borrelli.
At day’s end, Mr. Greg, your body shape and the mirror will tell a truth that is unique to you. Try all the garments when and if you are able. By the way, I still wear old number one from Oxxford. It's a gray herringbone tweed odd jacket. My tailor made it a “more comfortable fit”
a few years ago. My body shape has changed very little since that coat was purchased. Even the old Oxxford trousers had enough to accommodate the extra inch and one-half that appeared on my waist over the years.