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Crate Denim - Page 19

post #271 of 360
The Crates are sized very inconsistently and strangely. I measured my two pairs of Crate Routes, both are non selvedge and raw. The Indigos are tagged 36", the dark blue/black ones are 38" (I know... wow). Here are the measurements: Indigo(W36) / dark blue/Black(W38) Waist: 35" / 35" Thigh: 12" / 11" Knee: 9" / 8" Hem: 8.5" / 7.75" As you can see, the W38s are way slimmer than the W36 ones. I usually wear a 32-33" tag size in jeans. Both pairs above sit a little loose but just on the waist ONLY. In fact, you can see on the jean that the waist band is built to accomodate a bigger belly but the rest of the jean is sized like much smaller jeans. So if you are a big person with lots of meat in the derriere and legs, no way these jeans would fit! It's like they made these big sizes for people with a small belly problem but slim/average legs. Which actually is not necessarily a bad thing because there's enough of us who have this problem. The Indigo (W36) ones fit great, like a slim fit jean. The Dark blue/blackish (W38) ones fit like a skinny jean. Makes no sense!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yet another example of why buying stuff online can be a pita if the QC is not good.
post #272 of 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlyngard View Post
I've had some mixed luck with Crate. I've owned four pair of the newer 'Squire' cut, and two pair of the 'Journal'. I've returned or sold four of the six for various quality reasons. The Journal has angled pockets which I didn't like, the Squire is cut more like a NS. Mid-rise, moderate tightness and taper.

Pros: The hardware is nice, with bronze fly buttons on all newer models that I've seen. The denim is dead-stock vintage blue-line selvage, pre-1975, originally destined for Levis, Jordache, etc. Denim color and texture will vary, since only 300 pair are made per batch. Denim is a lighter-weight (maybe 11oz?), and great for hot, humid weather, all sourced from American mills. Uniqueness factor is nice, due to New Old Stock denim and limited production runs - each pair is hand-numbered on the pocket lining. I can't speak to denim fade/wear qualities, since the denim used on each run seems to vary. Sevage line on coin pocket and on back right belt loop, instead of a leather patch, which is interesting. Stretch has been moderate with the denim my pairs were made from.

Cons: The stitching is very second rate, and seems to be sweat-shop quality. Chain stitching at waist and other areas was lazy, and the finishing stitches are loose and haphazard. The crotch stitching on both pair of Squires that I kept busted after one wear, and had to be repaired. One pair was missing the back belt loop when delivered (brand new) and now, stitching is coming loose on both pair at random places (not from abrasion). No leather patch, and no back pocket lining.

Other irregularities include the fact that the same model and size in the same production run of 300 may be made from variously sourced dead-stock denim. I had two pair from Barneys where the denim was incredibly slubby, and my hands were blue in minutes, the Squires I kept have a very smooth hand and tighter weave. The denim is not starched at all as far as I can tell.

I have a pair of APC NS, and also Rag & Bone RB15s, and both those jeans are of far better quality and construction and are definitely worth the approx. $150 price tag. Crates are a shot on the dark for the same retail price. Tread carefully.

I AM pleased with the two pair I kept, and they're breaking in nicely. Good lightweight summer denim. Size down at least 1.

I've had a similar experience with my crate routes. I won't judge until i've washed them though. Nevertheless, I was a bit disappointed with the stitching; a lot of it was loose and haphazardly sewn. The coin pocket fell off within a week. This was my first foray into so-called high-priced denim and I think I'll try other similarly priced brands like APC for my next pair. I must say they do feel great and I love the weight of them. They have stretched a bit and the fades (albeit there is some vertical fading) are starting to come in nicely. For the price I paid, I'd say they're fine but I'm not blown away.
post #273 of 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by insideman View Post
I've had a similar experience with my crate routes. I won't judge until i've washed them though. Nevertheless, I was a bit disappointed with the stitching; a lot of it was loose and haphazardly sewn. The coin pocket fell off within a week. This was my first foray into so-called high-priced denim and I think I'll try other similarly priced brands like APC for my next pair. I must say they do feel great and I love the weight of them. They have stretched a bit and the fades (albeit there is some vertical fading) are starting to come in nicely. For the price I paid, I'd say they're fine but I'm not blown away.

Get some KMWs or Rag & Bones. Problem solved.
:-)
post #274 of 360
Agreed with StyleSmurf. KMW are probably the most amazing denim I've owned (and I've had the 1950s and 1980s in a few sizes). Absolutely worth the extra dosh. R&B are also amazing, but cut slightly more trouser-like in the RB15 model. However, if you're looking for lightweight denim, the R&B is about the same weight. KMW is heavier denim, but not excessive, and exceptionally soft and tightly woven for the weight (i'm guessing 13-14oz?)
post #275 of 360
Insideman - I think you'll be amazed at the quality difference between crate and APC for about the same retail price. The denim is heavier, and the NS cut is a great balance of snug fit without the skinny jeans feel. Well worth $150.

Order from Context. Great bunch of guys.
post #276 of 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by stylesmurf View Post
Get some KMWs or Rag & Bones. Problem solved.
:-)

I'd be all over some KMWs if they didn't have back pockets big enough to carry your lunch.
post #277 of 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Y View Post
I'd be all over some KMWs if they didn't have back pockets big enough to carry your lunch.

There's where I carry my sammiches :-)
post #278 of 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_Y View Post
I'd be all over some KMWs if they didn't have back pockets big enough to carry your lunch.

Hey, I've made small compromises with just about every girl I've ever dated. I wouldn't expect that to be different with jeans...besides, if you found true 100% perfection, you'd be bored of that in a week too...
post #279 of 360
FWIW, I saw indigo and black non-selvedge Crate routes at Filene's basement last year. And all the black Routes were consistently and significantly skinnier than the indigos. Maybe the black models were all just cut slimmer?

Quote:
Originally Posted by stylesmurf View Post
The Crates are sized very inconsistently and strangely.
I measured my two pairs of Crate Routes, both are non selvedge and raw.

The Indigos are tagged 36", the dark blue/black ones are 38" (I know... wow). Here are the measurements:

Indigo(W36) / dark blue/Black(W38)
Waist: 35" / 35"
Thigh: 12" / 11"
Knee: 9" / 8"
Hem: 8.5" / 7.75"

As you can see, the W38s are way slimmer than the W36 ones.

I usually wear a 32-33" tag size in jeans. Both pairs above sit a little loose but just on the waist ONLY. In fact, you can see on the jean that the waist band is built to accomodate a bigger belly but the rest of the jean is sized like much smaller jeans. So if you are a big person with lots of meat in the derriere and legs, no way these jeans would fit! It's like they made these big sizes for people with a small belly problem but slim/average legs. Which actually is not necessarily a bad thing because there's enough of us who have this problem.

The Indigo (W36) ones fit great, like a slim fit jean. The Dark blue/blackish (W38) ones fit like a skinny jean. Makes no sense!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yet another example of why buying stuff online can be a pita if the QC is not good.
post #280 of 360
are these jeans in stock anywhere?
post #281 of 360
pretty sure farinelli's has some (www.shopfarinellis.com)
post #282 of 360
lots of crate-hate going on in this thread recently.
post #283 of 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by nonissue View Post
lots of crate-hate going on in this thread recently.

I don't regret buying my crates--the fit is great; I just think I might go elsewhere in my next purchase
post #284 of 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by mookiej View Post
FWIW, I saw indigo and black non-selvedge Crate routes at Filene's basement last year. And all the black Routes were consistently and significantly skinnier than the indigos. Maybe the black models were all just cut slimmer?

Could be.. but given that they're the exact same model, seems weird that they would do this.

FWIW, I do like the Crates.. just some sizing issues.
post #285 of 360
Quote:
Originally Posted by nonissue View Post
lots of crate-hate going on in this thread recently.

Nah, no Crate hate here, brother, just a realistic assessment of what I got from them for over $100 a pair, when a $37 pair of Levis 514s are equal if not better in construction and close in fit. (this does not take into account the denim quality though...only time will tell on that...)

I've worn mine frequently this summer, and the denim weight is ideal for hot weather. Love the great potential of the cuts, uniqueness of the deadstock denim and hardware etc, but saddened so many glaringly obvious quality-control flaws (loose stitching, crotch unravelleing and a missing belt loop on +$100 jeans? Sheesh!)

Dunno, if I had picked these up for $75 or less, I suppose I wouldn't be as lukewarm about them.
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