4 Margaret Howell
9 Engineered Garments
10 Frank Leder
Stuff actually in my closet right now:
2. A Kind Of Guise
Stuff I'd like to add: Dana Lee (top 5), Margiela (top 8).
Outside of that: Barena (their knits fit damn well), Uniqlo (+J/UU), Nike (flyknits, gyakosou, sweats), Visvim (virgils basically), Peir Wu/Ute Ploier (pants, maybe outerwear), Undercover (older stuff), Junya (older stuff), Helmut Lang, NDG
"resurrecting" this (great) thread !
So my top 10 currently (in no particular order) :
- Kris Van Assche - I still think he's underrated. Great suits and of course the footwear (sneakers, boots and sandals). Very ggod quality stuff, the cotton is thick and soft at the same time. And the shirts... . > The majority if my "designer" pieces is KVA (suit, t shirt, sneakers, shirts, trousers...).
- Maison Martin Margiela - Well, no need to say much. Very good accessories, shoes and bags. The sizing and the cut is sometimes confusing (tends to change from one season to another)... and still don't understand WHY they don't bother glue AND sew the soles of their sneakers soles... > own trousers, sneakers and shoes
- Ann Demeulemeester - Described by many as "goth", i'll rather describe it as 'dark accursed poet' stuff. Whenever l see (black) Ann D clothing it somehow brings Baudelaire to my mind. Something really romantic (in the XIXth century 'romantic' sense) yet dark, melancolic. Love the trousers (whether they're cropped or horseriders trousers-like), the jacket with 'unusual' buttoning. The boots... Dayum! > own some trousers.
- Dries Van Noten - Love the 'philosophy' behind the brand, besides the esthaetics. His independence, the great work on patterns (especially the 'ethnic' inspired stuff - growing up in Africa made me familiar with these very colorful patterns). Not sure about the shoes though, looks fragile > own shirts.
- Dior Homme - Was fan of the Hedi era... as for the KVA, read above (though I think he actually does better work with his own line)... My go-to brand for designer jeans. and i want one those gorgeous blzaers / jackets > own jeans and shirts
- H&M - Well, my best choice for basics (white t shirts, underwear socks), very affordable, and their accessories (belts, bracelets, scarves, gloves) are decent quality-wise. I was really surprised of the leather quality on belts and bracelets, given the price! Never ever ever ever buy their 'dress shirts' though (flannel and chambray/denim shirts are ok) > own many t shirts, boxers, socks, chinos, jacket... Many everything!
- All Saints (ex aequo) - They get bad rap, but I think it's decent stuff. the brand is seen as a mix of Ann D, Yohji and other 'avant garde' brands knockoff, but the quality is quite good. Own many shirts and drop crotch trousers, nice stuff. They have some signature leather jackets as well and sneakers (the "Brandon" sneakers looks like RO sneakers but still have their own identity). I've been fairly satisfied with the pieces I own > own trousers, shoes, sneakers, shirts, knits...
-Yohji Yamamoto - I understand Ivwri's fandom : "Once you go Yohji, you'll never go back skinny!". I love slim-fitting clothing, but Yohji made me love oversize, large clothing. The work on wool material is amazing and great jackets with astounding details > own trousers.
Damir Doma - Same as Yohji, in a more 'youthful' way. The runway shows make me want to buy EVERYTHING. the clothes looks very comfy, drape nicely > only own SILENT pants for now
- Thamanyah - Hmm, rather 'niche' brand, but this is the best 'man skirt/dress' brand. Again, must be my african roots, his 'kanduras'-inspired men clothes (mainly dresses) are beautiful, love how they drape. Maybe, when l have enough money, it will my brand of choice for a more 'advanced' / avant garde look > don't own shit (Bitch, I'm broke!)
- Lanvin - Just like KVA, i love their mix of 'streetwear' and 'classic'-inspired clothes. Both brands looks like the perfect choices for the 'boy to man' transition look. The sneakers, the suits, teh casual jacket/bombers/trenches. Though i prefer wool trousers over everything i think they make the best clothes made of cotton. > own sneakers, trousers, shirts
Honorable mentions : Rick (jacket leathers mainly and some drop crotch pants), Balenciaga (best 'minimalist' brand IMHO), Gareth Pugh (wouldn't wear it myself, but i admire the creative work), Old Raf (pre-2004 ... Ok not really 'right now' but i've been in a hunt for old pieces lately), Helmut Lang (same as old Raf).