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The Official Temple of Jawnz Thread - Page 7  

post #91 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kill the DJ View Post
Do you personally cut the patterns? You got that fashunz school education? Seriously curious.

I do personally cut the patterns; I have a standard block I use (and want to continue to use for the rest of the existence of the TOJ) and I modify it to fit each person based on their instructions and the type of jacket I'm making. So far, I've been happy with the results, the fits are turning out pretty well (refer to superfuture thread to see more user fits) and I think the jackets on their own have a nice elegance that comes from the pattern. The leathers are made from modified patterns based on the varsity jacket (pictured above) so people who've bought those will be able to size themselves pretty easily for future items.

My personal education, I have a plain jane bachelor's degree in Business, and haven't really used much of my college education beyond the bitches and the booze since graduation. Pretty much only the bitches and the booze, so for this, I am most definitely self taught. I guess I'm better with a measuring tape, ruler, and swiss curve than the average person, I did have abackground in the arts prior to college. I can sew, but I delegate the sewing of these items to people who have about 40 years more experience in sewing than me and can put out my product in reasonable time at a much more expert level. I've also owned a whole bunch of nice clothes and know what I want from clothes I'd make myself, so that factors in as well.

I do find this is one of the better things I've done in my life so far though, I'm proud of what I am making here. I like clothes and I think people are going to be immensely happy with the things they get from me, I am pouring a lot of time and work into them. I think it will show once you open the package...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscotti View Post
Is there a slight possibility that you could make a jacket out of horsehide? I understand that it will cost significantly more if possible.

In my country, there's not too many horses, unfortunately, so horsehide isn't available as far as I've seen, and I buy all of my stuff at industry wholesale pointsso i'd say that's absolute. My cowhide is competitive with steerhide, I'd say though, it's very tough and extremely weighty, about double that of my lamb. If you want something that looks classic and will take 2 years to break in, opt for the cowhide and I think you'd be very happy.
Also, I'm no vegetarian nor am I opposed to wearing animals, and I know that horsehides in America are taken under fairly careful watch, but I feel better about using lamb and cowhide as offcasts of the meat industry rather than horses, as they're a bit different in circumstance and I find cowhide and horsehide to not look or feel as different, compared to lamb and cow, a situation of diminishing returns and hype value there. I know we're here on the internet talking about clothes that age well, but I want you to get the most for your money now and for the new few years, but honestly don't expect or really want you to wear the Temple of Jawnz when you're 75 and I'm already dead, you would look like sonicvoodoo from superfuture
post #92 of 8365
Can't wait to see the perfecto. Fit pics, too.
post #93 of 8365
Well once you have some pics of the Perfecto style jacket, I'll let you know.
post #94 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscotti View Post
Well once you have some pics of the Perfecto style jacket, I'll let you know.

Pretty much likewise. Trying to decide between moto or perfecto style.
post #95 of 8365
Re: varsity jacket, is it possible to get the standard stripe ribbing cuff and hem instead of the solid color you currently have?
post #96 of 8365
Thread Starter 
yes, depending on the color you want; the striped trim is striped on one side and solid on the other, so it works when flipped to the MA-1 as well. It's rare and hard to match though, and oft times it is the quality made for real sportswear and not nicer clothing, so solid trim has been made the standard. If you understand this and are set on the stripe trim, I can do it. For some guys, the striped trim is the deal breaker.
post #97 of 8365
Thread Starter 
I'm getting pretty anxious here, the perfecto and brown A2 samples should be out very soon, and I'll have the whole leather lineup better sorted out by then. I'll describe the house fit of the jackets: TOJ moto - slim, not tight; falling to right above the waistband, perhaps a bit on the short side. The sleeves and body are straight cut on this so measuring ideal lengths should be easier (or harder). The keystone measurement for getting a good fit IMO would be the shoulder width. Give me a shoulder to shoulder measurement in a half-inch increment, and then let me know whether you have a broad chest or not; most people will fit into the house torso body pattern, some guys with particularly large upper bodies will want to get a combination of accordian sleeve backs and a slight bump out of the p2p to give it some chest. I also need to know your bicep circumference, flexed and unflexed, to decide on a sleeve size. The house cut (body+sleeves) pattern is for skinny guys with pretty much no muscle. A2- same as above, but less tapered in on the sides as it has the ribbed waistband, so the back has a relaxed fit. The front upper body when zipped comes in close to the body, the rest is slightly relaxed as a bomber does. Again -> shoulder to shoulder, pit to pit, and then body and sleeve length and bicep circumference. I think this jacket looks better sitting on the waistband as well, as it's still a very slim cut jacket. It's probably the most deceiving of the jackets as it doesn't seem that way on the hanger, but put on, my first thought was 'old Dior Homme'.... so yeah it too is a slim jacket that will look best right on the waistline... perfecto - still sizing and waiting on sample, but again, I'll sizing directions as with the other two jackets; s2s, p2p, lengths, arm circumference, yada yada. my definition of shoulder to shoulder is where the shoulder seams hit the very corners of the shoulders, where any more would look like the jacket is hanging off the shoulder, and where the seams don't ride up on shoulder. From there too, you should measure down to right past the wristbone with the arm extended, for sleeve length. I am more concerned with a one-side pit to pit measurement rather than a chest measurement, but you can give me both, as some people have deceving measurements. Also, height and weight and general build, and a general fit pic do help me and give me an idea of the general size I need to be cutting for. If you're unsure, break out a light to midweight jacket taht fits you well with non-raglan sleeves and do the shoulder to shoulder, pit to pit, and make some adjustments for how you'd like your leather to fall on you, shorter, longer, etc.
post #98 of 8365
This stuff looks great. Definitely gonna pick some stuff up when I get off business travel. Thank you for saving me from a Margiela leather purchase :P
post #99 of 8365
so if we do some meet up, no problems on measuring me up so I have something that fits? I'm not kunk but I've got a decent drop
post #100 of 8365
Thread Starter 
yeah, that would be no problem at all. I am supposed to meet up with another styleforummer here when I get some time as well, we could make it mini meetup if you're down.
post #101 of 8365
as long as it's on the weekend I'm good to go, otherwise I'd need to plan ahead
post #102 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Alright, perhaps this upcoming Saturday we can do a Saturday late-afternoon/evening beer or a Sunday. I'll ask the other guy and see if he is free for a little while. I am in the process of moving houses and stuff so this middle of the month is getting a little busy for me but I'll carve out a couple hours. I live in Shinchon btw, I thought I saw some familiar backgrounds in your WAYWTs, am I wrong?
post #103 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Here are some more detailed shots of the first two leathers in order if you guys haven't seem them already on sufu:
post #104 of 8365
haha Sinchon is no problem almost any time (as long as it's night but can't do much drinking on the weekdays) since my gf is a Hongik student and lives in that area, so I can just stay at her place for the night if I have to. I'm up there almost all the time on the weekend.
post #105 of 8365
Would you be able to do the leather jacket like the Lithium Homme item in the link below. This is the style I like, less zips and the zips are done in a recessed position making it look more elegant. Let me know;

http://zozo.jp/shop/glaice/goods.htm...pno=1&rid=1011
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