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post #7036 of 8365
11/12/10 at 7:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
One guy had a tailor straighten his DR sleeves out, getting the curve out of them
lol why would someone do this

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post #7037 of 8365
11/12/10 at 7:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by false View Post
I check this thread like 5 times a day checking for new Harrington fits but no dice. Harrington > * Gotta make some money.

Agreed, love the Harrington. Will probably be my first TOJ as I didn't think to get the Peacoat this winter
post #7038 of 8365
11/12/10 at 10:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2balls View Post
Judging from the pics in this album, the fit is either hit or miss. Some of those fit pics look horrible IMO. *crossing fingers*

Pretty sure everything is 'hit or miss', no? Unless you know of a piece of clothing that fits great on every single person that tries it on...
post #7039 of 8365
11/12/10 at 10:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
How slim do you guys expect a peacoat to be? Any slimmer on a lot of the fits so far and people would not be able to move and people with larger arms and backs would be ripping them apart. There are some who feel toj stuff still isn't slim enough and they go get their things tailored even slimmer, but frankly I think there is a lot missed that way. The point of the clothes is not to have a spray painted fit, that looks terrible. One guy had a tailor straighten his DR sleeves out, getting the curve out of them; the end result is the forearm is just really tight and the sleeve end does not have the graceful flare that you normally get from my pattern.

You should go Soup Nazi. No TOJ for you! Honestly though, this is just like how people don't understand Dior jeans.
post #7040 of 8365
11/12/10 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
One guy had a tailor straighten his DR sleeves out, getting the curve out of them; the end result is the forearm is just really tight and the sleeve end does not have the graceful flare that you normally get from my pattern.
http://toj.pixi.me/v/toj2_3/43621373...47b_o.jpg.html are you talking about shinchrono? i know i had mine done by you guys in a similar tapered sleeve.. i get the graceful flare when i unzip the sleeves and the super skinny look when i zip the sleeves which i'm quite happy with though i do realize it is not what the pattern was intended for.. but for the record that's still my favourite DR fit
post #7041 of 8365
11/12/10 at 10:52am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanayrb View Post
http://toj.pixi.me/v/toj2_3/43621373...47b_o.jpg.html

are you talking about shinchrono? i know i had mine done by you guys in a similar tapered sleeve.. i get the graceful flare when i unzip the sleeves and the super skinny look when i zip the sleeves which i'm quite happy with

though i do realize it is not what the pattern was intended for.. but for the record that's still my favourite DR fit

nah, shinchrono actually did a good job in getting his stuff tailored personally- because he knows exactly what he wants in a fit, and doubly good because he's a small guy and tailoring is very sensitive at that size, compared to bigger guys where an inch here and there doesn't even show up.

I was talking about hailxenu's DR that he bought from some other person off buy/sell; it looks alright (because it's one of mine? ) but if you look at the recent pics since he tapered the sleeves on his, and compare to like, yannick's DR with the really beautifully flared sleeve ends and natural curve line you see in the sleeves of his, you see what I am trying to do with these clothes.
post #7042 of 8365
11/12/10 at 10:52am
Sweet, thanks Willy.

So this is used for the Bomber, correct?


And the optional removable collar, is there an extra fee for that? Or just the the $640 as listed on the website for brown calf?


Thanks again.
post #7043 of 8365
11/12/10 at 10:58am
Thread Starter 
it's $650 in lamb, fur collar included as standard now; the unofficial site has been on hiatus and not updated in awhile. As for measurements, yes. If you want something longer, you can measure further down the fly of your jeans (and wear your jeans naturally, with a bit of slouch - if you wear your jeans way high over your butt, then give it another inch or so) - remember that the jackets with the ribbed bottoms will ride up a bit. As for Moto's and DR's, do not lengthen them intentionally - the opinions of people here saying that the DR should be lengthened, etc, that is not good advice IMO. It's not a pattern that lends itself to extra length, nor is it a style intended to look that way. It should be worn as the shortest layer in whatever layers you wear, ie: DR/Moto, cardigan, tee, tee long enough to cover jeans when you sit down, maybe a half inch between each layer or something. I dunno, it's not science, but put on your jeans and your tee shirt, and you can probably tell where you'll want the jacket to hit.
post #7044 of 8365
11/12/10 at 11:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
How slim do you guys expect a peacoat to be? Any slimmer on a lot of the fits so far and people would not be able to move and people with larger arms and backs would be ripping them apart. There are some who feel toj stuff still isn't slim enough and they go get their things tailored even slimmer, but frankly I think there is a lot missed that way. The point of the clothes is not to have a spray painted fit, that looks terrible. One guy had a tailor straighten his DR sleeves out, getting the curve out of them; the end result is the forearm is just really tight and the sleeve end does not have the graceful flare that you normally get from my pattern.
A peacoat is a coat. Slim is great, but you should be able to layer under it and move around.
post #7045 of 8365
11/12/10 at 1:08pm
The peacoat is amazing. I will post my fit pics this weekend if I can get my girlfriend to take some shots outside. Natural light is a necessity. With the sun going down at 4:30pm, I just haven't had time.
post #7046 of 8365
11/12/10 at 1:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wj4 View Post
Sweet, thanks Willy.

So this is used for the Bomber, correct?

Yeah, basically. However, ToJ shoulder measurement is not really based on the front. I find that the back shoulder measurement is the crucial one for suits, sport jackets, casual jackets, etc. The front can vary depending on the cut and still look fine. I dunno, either way just ask Charly.

Measuring the back shoulder is tricky - I think Jason from Thick as Thieves has a great video of how to do it properly on youtube.

Edit: Probably easier if you have a jacket you already think fits the way you want. Just lay flat and measure. Much easier than the body measurement.
post #7047 of 8365
11/12/10 at 2:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razele View Post
People don't know how to measure themselves ^

I believe people tend to add an extra inch or 2 when they measure themselves (and then post on the internet)
post #7048 of 8365
11/12/10 at 2:30pm
Yeah like 90% of the engineers I work with who wear dad jeans and have leather jackets 2 sizes too big for them. How can people not realize how terrible they look? BUY CLOTHES THAT FIT!

C'est la vie.
post #7049 of 8365
11/12/10 at 2:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hendrix View Post
don't taper the sleeves, looks nice and you want to be able to layer underneath it.

get different boots and jeans to go with it though. (i realise you just threw it on over whatever you're wearing, just nitpicking)

ditto, it's an overcoat, you wanna be able to put clothes under it and still be able to move. actually if anything i think the whole coat looks a little too small to put any layers underneath. maybe it's different in person tho.
post #7050 of 8365
11/12/10 at 3:02pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icarium View Post
Yeah, basically. However, ToJ shoulder measurement is not really based on the front. I find that the back shoulder measurement is the crucial one for suits, sport jackets, casual jackets, etc. The front can vary depending on the cut and still look fine. I dunno, either way just ask Charly.

Measuring the back shoulder is tricky - I think Jason from Thick as Thieves has a great video of how to do it properly on youtube.

Edit: Probably easier if you have a jacket you already think fits the way you want. Just lay flat and measure. Much easier than the body measurement.

I use the perpendicular point where the sleeve meets the shoulder in a 'T' on the garment - it should measure the same front and back; and I like a shoulder seam (not the sleeve meeting the body, the seam that is created from the front/back panels of the body here) that rides a little high down the shoulders, makes people look a little more upright and taller if you go up higher there.
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