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The Official Temple of Jawnz Thread - Page 356  

post #5326 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by CanuckBassist View Post
Chesterfield and trench!

ditto!
post #5327 of 8365
Finally received two new TOJ BD shirts today. Took quite awhile, but I couldn't be happier with the end product, especially the chambray shirt. So nice, and despite the slightly smaller collar, it still rolls nice.

Good stuff TOJ.
post #5328 of 8365
Thread Starter 
nice, Johnny. flyguy, Bombers are pretty quick now that we're not really making much of anything. One guy's was in for order for the past couple weeks (but the first week was a holiday week for our leather people) and it's already done now, so less than 3 weeks on those currently. Also, we're whittling down to our very last lambskins in our current batch, and then when they re-order they said they're raising the price on us next time, so I guess it's good timing for Bombers right now. We have the Riris for black and brown ones. BRMC, dude, you can't let everyone else make your decisions for you man. That is all of the fun in purchasing things. The duffle is gonna be sick this year... well, it was already sick, but I only sold like 5 and the feedback was a bit quiet, but I guess people were just busy enjoying them. One guy in Australia got his, and sold it on because it was too heavy, apparently, while I think one of the guys in Scandinavia got it and will find it nice for winter. Duffles are blowing up lately and I can't get enough of a good duffle, so ours will be solid, just a minor update on that design. I'll keep the same pattern, because that one had the nice sleeves and this beautiful, very subtly nipped-in back shape and had real form. The pea will also stay on the same pattern and have the same detailing, because that was also very pleasing. The chesterfield will get its own detailing and fabric selection, and be what you'd expect a TOJ chesterfield to be... I think it will be rather slim, in its stock form, though. I want to keep that one slim because Chesterfields are very sensitive to proportion, in terms of keeping them stylish. As far as shirting goes, our samples are done soon, and I'll show those. This time, we are not going to offer so many fabrics and details will not be changeable. that was too much work, I took the shirt project on as an experiment and now I have to get more serious about them. I was pleased with the fit of them, I just want to expand the actual styles now and clean up the selection so that it's less of a headache for everyone. Leather jackets will be coming out soon. I have a women's jacket in the group of samples, and I hope they all come out good because I want to get more serious about making girlfriend jackets, and I want a fresh look for the DR and Moto in the meantime. I'll also do a minor change on the Bomber, to freshen things up. I have some other stuff I'll be working on, but I'll probably focus on stuff that matches the season, and as we get into the colder months I'll have stuff to address that as well. I have a good set of pattern blocks that I feel comfortable modulating now and it's great to worry less about how my samples are gonna be, teething is over and things run smoothly now. As far as customization and things go, some things like shirts as i mentioned will be standard sized, and then some things will be MTM still, but I will not be allowing design detail changes or waste time hunting down new materials or things, I will have set colors and designs for everything now, as I want to solidify the look and keep things on the same track. I learned a lot about making clothes in the past year, and what I've learned from customized clothing is that it's stressful to go in and do a one-shot hit everytime, this is probably why you don't see people doing it at the level we do it at. It's always possible to tailor the size to fit you, but pocket changes and things, they're not as simple as they look. Also, there is too much of people bringing ideas from other designs into mine and hoping the end result will resemble the original designer piece, which is rarely the case. I still don't make Julius, I don't make Dior, etc. On the other hand, my aesthetic vision remains fairly the same this time around as well, we are just adding on to the house. We had this small cabin going and now I want to add more and make it a big house. I still want to present items with pure classicism, so that they have an intrinsic value beyond just being a purchase; they need to stand alone and represent what each piece should be, and mix with all your other clothes. In other words, the TOJ peacoat should be what a peacoat should be, the leathers should be a leather jacket in the style it's supposed to be, etc. I'd rather things not scream 'Toj!' and rather, just be clothes that people can admire for being good clothes. My job still, as I see it at this juncture, is to take classical things and re-examine the material base, and then do subtle (and not so subtle) changes to the fit of things, the forms themselves. The duffle coat, for example, is not skin tight, it's not cropped, it's not hiding any high technology; it does have a very honed pattern though, something that must be seen and felt to be appreciated, it might even require trying my duffle and another duffle back to back, to really get how that back shape and sleeve works. Likewise for the leather jackets, I have a certain sleeve pattern thta I drew out long ago, at the very beginning (I guess it was this time last year) that I still feel is successful in its form. All of these small things make up my work, so needless to say, there is tons more to do. I'm up way early today actually, so I am gonna knock some more stuff out.
post #5329 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
There will be a deck jacket, a Chesterfield, a trench or two, the pea and a newly updated Duffle coat, 3-5 or 6 leather styles, some pants, and some new shirting, as well as a bag or two, at least for the beginning. Further into the colder months i may make some more stuff to contend with the weather and provide some protection, out of necessity.
You should make some nice heavy trousers for winter. I've been trying to find some slim wool military-inspired cargos.
post #5330 of 8365
Have you got any feedback on the collar for your shirts? I really like them, but had some slight issues getting them to work with a tie...
post #5331 of 8365
Particularly interested to see a TOJ chesterfield.
post #5332 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Jekyll, I forgot to mention, I will have some pants. I have the dress pants I never really put out but you all have seen, and then I wanted to do some military style trousers as well (no cargo, although I'm not averse to cargo pants as a casual pant... I had some different ideas for those...) and then my lady is bringing me some 14oz redline selvedge from Japan that I am gonna tinker with and see what I can make. which, btw, if anyone cared, my personal life is finally back to normal, the Mrs. is good and better than ever and is on holiday in Japan now and then will be back support Toj in spirit I guess, I have a good solid workweek ahead of me, and less to deal with. racknac, the collars on the casual shirt block were not prioritzed for tie-wearing, really, but I guess it'd be possible with some of them if you have tiny ties, whatnot. I envisioned people going with the dress shirts for tie-wearing and not really the casual shirt block.
post #5333 of 8365
Whenever I see a long post on a forum I usually skip it but I always look forward to Drew's long posts. Good stuff
post #5334 of 8365
Thread Starter 
stream of consciousness, broski. I have had my Diet Coke for breakfast now and am thinking about getting out to the fabric market and wandering around on my own for a bit to see what I can turn up for some of these projects.
post #5335 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
stream of consciousness, broski. I have had my Diet Coke for breakfast now and am thinking about getting out to the fabric market and wandering around on my own for a bit to see what I can turn up for some of these projects.

roll-out timeline for this stuff? Hopefully you can start taking orders by end of September so that people can start getting stuff by October when fall weather starts to pick up.
post #5336 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
Jekyll, I forgot to mention, I will have some pants. I have the dress pants I never really put out but you all have seen, and then I wanted to do some military style trousers as well (no cargo, although I'm not averse to cargo pants as a casual pant... I had some different ideas for those...) and then my lady is bringing me some 14oz redline selvedge from Japan that I am gonna tinker with and see what I can make.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SPK View Post
Whenever I see a long post on a forum I usually skip it but I always look forward to Drew's long posts. Good stuff

+1 They're always interesting.
post #5337 of 8365
dress shirts with hidden buttons?
post #5338 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
thinking about getting out to the fabric market and wandering around on my own for a bit to see what I can turn up for some of these projects.
And again very interested to see what you come up with for the chesterfield. Kind of hoping for some interesting patterns, I know you're not likely to do anything super loud (which is probably a good thing) but some sort of interesting tweed or plaid or at least overcheck would be cool.

EDIT: A la Shore's coat for example.

Or this MJ pattern.


Food for thought.
post #5339 of 8365
Stoked to see all the new jawnz...
post #5340 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattt View Post
Stoked to see all the new jawnz...

JD, I am on my way back from a quick trip to the market, started raining and I wasn't feelin it today so I called it quits early. I did grab some Japanese tweed though, in. 95/5 wool and silk blend that will be interesting for the chesterfield.I think I'll have that and some solids, initially.
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