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The Official Temple of Jawnz Thread - Page 188  

post #2806 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Here is why peacoats are taking awhile, and why some people wait longer than others; -We showed the sample, it took 2-3 weeks to get enough people together to make a first batch. We ran that, but we ran a few, didn't like the pattern, tweaked, re-ran the coats til we liked the pattern, and then got that first batch done. -That first batch went out, all except for a couple, in time for the Chinese New Year's holidays, and once the holiday was over the last couple went and the 2nd batch was put in... that was 2.5 weeks ago but after the holidays, most of these people are slow at coming back to work and getting back up to production speed, and that is a variable I can't control. -what happened here was people who held out on the first run and wanted in on the second placed their orders sometime in late January or early February while the first run was getting run up. The time from order placement to my order placement with the tailors is waiting time, sorry about that, but there has to be some wait time. Oft times we have follow up questions and people changing their mind often as well, and so some lead time keeps things balanced. I would say that 50% of the clothes we make are standard to our original idea and then the other 50% are custom and come about after people hem and haw and come back after paying to change their mind, etc. There has to be that dead lead time to accomodate that. We could have only one day for orders but people would just miss out and there's no point of doing that. We take orders continuously but feed the tailors orders at a pace they can make the clothes at. -The good news: We got some of the 2nd run peacoats out and sent, and now we're just waiting on the remainder of the 2nd run. We were told they are gonna be done tomorrow, and sent before the end of the week if all goes to plan. I have seen a few more today and so I know that the 2nd run is indeed coming to completion. I can say 'hey old people, make this faster' but that is not a good solution, they will just take that as a pass to cut corners on their work. Because they're made one by one and finished in batches (they take the coats over to a different place to get the buttonholes sewn by machine and they thread the machine to match the color coat, so that is done at the end, at once), there's not much else we can do. There were a lot of peacoat orders, especially the 2nd run, it was packed, and that was inevitable. The same goes for leather jackets sometimes, but less so because we aren't running as many at once. Leathers get held up sometimes because people ask for custom options that take time to prepare, like zippers that custom lengthed and get dyed to match, washed leather, leather that needs to be shaven to proper thickness, etc.
post #2807 of 8365
I heart you TOJ and all the work you do for us. Been thinking about my horsehide moto and I don't think I can rock it in brisbane enough. What about suede? I think you said ages ago that you can suede but no one took you up on out? Either suede or roughout, roughout would be cool.
post #2808 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Suede would be really easy to do, and we have tons of it in all kinds of colors.
post #2809 of 8365
i think it got lost in all the bickering, but, what other leather designs are in the pipeline, if any.
post #2810 of 8365
Thread Starter 
I will let that one out of the bag now; I am gonna make a banded collar DR, kind of like a Monza jacket... second style I don't really know, there may only be one new style as I am working on a duffle bag and stuff.
post #2811 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
I will let that one out of the bag now; I am gonna make a banded collar DR, kind of like a Monza jacket... second style I don't really know, there may only be one new style as I am working on a duffle bag and stuff.
Yessss!
post #2812 of 8365
thanks. i'd love to see a leather design similar to the varsities with the knit ribbed collar, but thats just me.
post #2813 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
I will let that one out of the bag now; I am gonna make a banded collar DR, kind of like a Monza jacket... second style I don't really know, there may only be one new style as I am working on a duffle bag and stuff.

can someone who knows what this means post a pic? I'm bad at visualizing. thanks!
post #2814 of 8365
my guess is picture the DR with the moto collar. like the blue ones? was hoping it would be a SR design even if it was a little too rick owens/julius esque.
post #2815 of 8365
Thread Starter 
What would you like to see in a single rider? Something a lot different than the Moto jacket? I am thinking about nixing the quilted shoulders and elbows on the band-collar DR, and adding a separate cuff and waist band detail (self leather and not fabric) along with side seam zips. Just trying something new.
post #2816 of 8365
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
What would you like to see in a single rider? Something a lot different than the Moto jacket? I am thinking about nixing the quilted shoulders and elbows on the band-collar DR, and adding a separate cuff and waist band detail (self leather and not fabric) along with side seam zips. Just trying something new.
I'd really like to see the current DR with a band collar, no belt, and stitched down epaulets. If I could find the last set of black zips on earth... Also, is there any possibility of a moto but with biswing shoulders like on the DR? Or, really, a moto but with the entire back of the current DR (biswing shoulders, lower kidney panel, etc)?
post #2817 of 8365
Thread Starter 
People wondering why certain things take awhile to make, and why certain things get to your door in like 3 days to a week; here is how our production is done at separate workshops and how they work: -(old, discontinued) Varsity jackets: their own workshop. They can work quickly but I had to scrutinize their work. -Bombers: their own workshop, bombers alone. This jacket, IMO, is one of the best things we make, because the guy who makes these is a fanatically awesome tailor, always consistently awesome. Measurements are always perfect, seaming is all done over saran wrap to keep the leather clean, he makes those fur collar attachments from scratch, he does an awesome job. He can be really fast at times, like 1-1.5 jackets a day, sometimes he can be really slow, as we've been waiting for almost 2 weeks now on 2 jackets. i think he was slow in coming back from his holiday. -DR's and Motos: their own workshop. These guys use the same materials we use in the Bomber, but I feel they've always done better with the Moto and DR styles. The guy who makes the Bomber actually wears an A2 of his own everytime I see him, and the guy who makes the Moto and DR wears something different, so that tells me something. These people are pretty fast, and artful. I feel like these two jackets, because they have the zipped pockets and cuffs, require a talented eye for proportion on the fly. They make a really beautiful sleeve that curves out from the elbow and inwards, and it visually bells at the cuff. I leave these two styles to them, but I think they have a pretty good production time if they have all the materials supplied to them and aren't interrupted. They've turned something like 10 jackets in a week for me if I get on them, but usually are half as fast. -Peacoat and Duffle - their own workshop, all of these workshops are just 2 people; a cutter and a sewer. They do a really good job on these but probably underestimated the time it'd take to complete this many. I plan to use them again though if they can get one more sewer because I haven't seen build quality like this except for in really nice clothes. I am disappointed that they are taking awhile but I wouldn't want to go with another person, seeing as how nice these peacoats turn out. -MA-1, separate workshop - guy is slow and weird but the sample he made me was really good. Kind of a trial experiment with this guy. -OCBDs - factory run. I like their pattern, I hate the way they work because they bullshit me all the time and I have to get mad at them to do anything I want to do with the shirts, like the single needle, the handsewn thick MOP buttons, etc. I am gonna switch to a different factory in the future. -Trousers (coming) - separate tailor. Going to also make suits with this guy once I get my trouser sample back, MTM or bespoke suiting. -Dress shirt (coming) - maybe the same tailor as above, piece by piece basis, MTM or bespoke. -Daypack, bags - small workshop that normally specializes in making high-grade fake Balenciaga bags. lol. He's fucking awesome though, and makes me insanely high quality bags, it's one of the strongest items IMO. This guy gets my materials and order specs on Monday and can be finished by Friday, but he needs to make 10 or more of the same thing at a time, so no custom bags at this point. -Wallets: separate workshop, guy works completely alone and makes each one by hand, I don't know how many he can complete in a day but he takes about a week to finish whatever small orders we have for wallets. Those kind of turn along quietly and consistently. What I am thinking for the future: I am gonna build my own factory. When you think factory you're probably thinking smokestacks and hundreds of people on the floor in grey polyester uniforms, but I am talking more like a white labratory staffed by 4 or 5 people, with separate tables and machine stations. I will find an expert suit tailor, I will find a pattern cutter who can cut for anything (if they can do suits then they can do anything), I am gonna get a sewer who does a lot of handwork for tailored stuff, and then a sewer who works better on a machine doing intricate machine work, the latter better for leather jackets and the former better for clothes. I have a good idea of how I need them to work together as well as the little tricks to keep everything clean, and I am going to computerize a lot of the workflow, and keep a little high-tech atelier going, with Charly as factory foreman on the floor. I think I can eliminate my need for all of these separate little workshops, as they tend to get backed up if I ask them to make more then 5 pieces at a time. Working on this factory project in the preliminary stages now and probably more seriously later.
post #2818 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arethusa View Post
I'd really like to see the current DR with a band collar, no belt, and stitched down epaulets. If I could find the last set of black zips on earth...

Also, is there any possibility of a moto but with biswing shoulders like on the DR? Or, really, a moto but with the entire back of the current DR (biswing shoulders, lower kidney panel, etc)?

The latter yes, you can have the DR back style on the Moto, and we can modify stuff like that easily. If you want short shallow gussets that wrap around the sleeve back, or if you want long gussets that reach all the way down to the kidney patch, you want gussets + 4 panel back + kidney panel, you can have all of that.

Black zippers, no. I have contact both Riri and Lampo about some Toj industrial strength custom orders but that is still up in the air and definitely not 100%, because they both go through Italy and Italians seem to be the chillest people on earth when it comes to work. I expect to get these catalogs and samples sometime next year.
post #2819 of 8365
Thread Starter 
Also, I should add to the list: -Toj denim products (and possibly more cotton stuff) - will be made in Kojima, Okayama in the belly of the denim beast, at a family run factory. I will make more than just jeans probably, because I've spent half of my life looking for a skinny black overdye Type 3-style jacket that fits my lanky frame, and a high quality version would be an accomplishment.
post #2820 of 8365
Hey Drew,

just want to check in and see if my grey moto is part of the weds batch? Charly hasn't sent me an email yet but probably cuz you guys are swamped and it may be hard to find my emails.
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