Originally Posted by Martin Syb
Jussi, you can correct me but i think that people must notice that these interesting measurement tips are for a Slim Fit shirt, that is to say the tailor must not add too much room and must apply them to the final shirt exactly as specified.
This is important with WebTailors because - generally - as they have not measured you in real world they can consider that measurement you provide is to be adjusted to prevent the shirt to be too slim (they add some extra room - less risky). And the result can be different from expected.
Definitely. The guide was made for putting in the exact
, final measurements for "copy my shirt measurements" -type of service. Usually, different "measure your body and we'll add some room" -services give very varied results - and are mostly erred towards the large side.
I've noticed (and this is my personal view) that when one's sitting down, the stomach is pretty much as relaxed as possible (thus, has the largest circumference). There's some give in buttonholes & closure for that (and human body isn't actually rigid on that area), so the "skin tight" measurement actually does. For me, it's about standing measurement + 4cm (I have a flat stomach - well, now some ~5kg's of extra winterweight but I shall shed it soon). Waist measurement is definitely up to one's tastes. However, if one wants to avoid bunching and sloppy trousers-to-shirt -transition, this measurement has to be relatively tight.
As said earlier, the guide gives you a rather slim fitting shirt. When adjusting different fits, it's necessary to understand the basics of how the shirt works. For example, I would never take the shoulder seam further than 1,5cm out from the end of the collarbone - having it sit right at the end of the bone is best (when considering the ability to move). Armhole is a similar thing - I don't want excess room there, thus just 1cm for fabric to drape well and avoid any uncomfortability (is that a word?). It's all about movement - if one wishes to avoid his shirt pulling out from his trousers (this, actually, doesn't have anything to do with the length of the shirt tail. As long as it's 4" in your pants, a properly measured shirt won't pull) and have a free movement for his arms, he wants the shoulder and armhole fit to be exact. Same thing as with suits and high armholes (and even the best high armhole won't help, if suits shoulders are too wide - and it looks ridiculous as well).
Room for shoulder movement (front to back, up and down) is made with armpit-to-armpit -allowance. Back pleats give some extra here, but, according to fashion nowadays (yes, fashion), doesn't look good. Thus, I recommend those to be used only if one's sure that he stays jacketed all the time. Other "jacket only" things (although very dapper when unjacketed) are slightly roomier sleeves, 2-4cm of extra length to sleeves, tight-ish cuffs and sleeve bands (I hope this is a correct term in English - however, I'm meaning the bands around upper bicep area to rise the sleeve a bit).
The "problem" with shirts (and suits, for that matter, although wool can be stretched and suppressed a bit to create shapes) is that they're generally done from two dimensional material that is turned into a three dimensional object. Thus, different things - seams, darts, pleats - are used to create an approximation of the body. Some room has to be left in critical places, since cotton doesn't stretch and live like human skin does.
One thing that I always, always heavily despise is the claim that extra room means extra mobility. This simply isn't true. Make the armholes too big and drop the shoulder seams and a result is a sack that you can't lift your arms without dragging the shirt out of your trousers and ripping the armpit seam. So, even with more relaxed fit, these things have to be kept in mind.
(Sorry about the length of this post. I might have babbled a bit...)