Slim Pleated Pants?

Knowledge is King · Sep 2, 2009

Anyone have suggestions for a reliable source of slim, pleated wool trousers? Single or double pleat works. Thanks.

Coburn · Sep 3, 2009

I'm bumping the thread because I'd like to hear some suggestions.

Originally Posted by Knowledge is King

Anyone have suggestions for a reliable source of slim, pleated wool trousers? Single or double pleat works. Thanks.

IBJanky · Sep 3, 2009

Slim and pleated?

That's like an oxymoron

myke

DandySF · Sep 3, 2009

One approach would be to find a pair that fits reasonably well and them have them tailored so that they fit perfectly, especially through the hips, seat, and thigh. I'm beginning to move away from well-fitting pleated pants to slimmer flat fronts. I find the pleated pants are just too voluminous.

FlaneurNYC · Sep 3, 2009

I have two pair, but they're vintage. Grey virgin wool flannels --one warm grey, one cool -- given to me by a friend from Italy. One is marked "Actualite" and other is "Nobleman for La Rinascente.

The drape is great and they're fairly slim straight down, no taper. Not like Dior Homme slim, but...

If you couldn't see the top part, you wouldn't know they were pleated.

Living in an exclusively flat front world can be a drag.

Gus · Sep 3, 2009

Slim pants with pleats are pulled open. They don't have the natural drape intended for pleats. They don't work because they don't look properly fitted.

Don Carlos · Sep 3, 2009

I could see a single reverse pleat possibly working, but you'd also need to cuff it. At that point you're basically defeating the purpose of slim fitting office pants.

FlaneurNYC · Sep 3, 2009

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy

Slim pants with pleats are pulled open. They don't have the natural drape intended for pleats. They don't work because they don't look properly fitted.

The ones I have are straight down and not tapered -- and not so slim that the pleats are pulled open. Also, the pleats aren't deeply set-in. They're on the small side.

I guess you have to get vintage Italian ones to get the proper cut.

rebel222 · Sep 3, 2009

The Isaia pants in my signature are single reverse pleat, and they are pretty slim. I would definitely call them slim fitting... not ball crunching Incotex slim, but very slim.

I am a slim guy, and they are some of the best fitting pants that I own.

FlaneurNYC · Sep 3, 2009

Originally Posted by Arrogant Bastard

I could see a single reverse pleat possibly working, but you'd also need to cuff it. At that point you're basically defeating the purpose of slim fitting office pants.

The ones I have are double pleated, but smaller pleats. and they both actually do have cuffs.

I no longer have an office thanks to the recession, so it's not a big deal for me right now.

Don Carlos · Sep 3, 2009

Originally Posted by FlaneurNYC

The ones I have are double pleated, but smaller pleats. and they both actually do have cuffs.

I no longer have an office thanks to the recession, so it's not a big deal for me right now.

When you're in office pants, my friend, the world is your office.

FlaneurNYC · Sep 3, 2009

Originally Posted by Arrogant Bastard

When you're in office pants, my friend, the world is your office.

Thanks for the laugh!

Knowledge is King · Sep 3, 2009

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy

Slim pants with pleats are pulled open. They don't have the natural drape intended for pleats. They don't work because they don't look properly fitted.
Just because pants are pleated doesn't mean they can't be slim through most of the leg. If the rise is appropriate and the pleat is deep enough, it can work easily. I'm basically looking for more crotch room and better drape across the lap area while keeping a relatively narrow leg. I think good examples of pleated pants that are still slim are those worn by Mafoofan and Incontro (amongst others). Both of those guys use custom tailors though which I'm not looking to do.

maomao1980 · Sep 3, 2009

On a pair of bespoke trousers, the tailor can adjust the amount of material that is folded over to create the pleating that can still give a slim leg. But if you are thinking of taking-in a pair of OTR trousers with pleats, then there is a limit to how much you can take in without pulling the pleats open.

comrade · Sep 3, 2009

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy

Slim pants with pleats are pulled open. They don't have the natural drape intended for pleats. They don't work because they don't look properly fitted.

Not true. I have several pairs of quite slim, double inward-facing pleated pants
with very low rise purchased in Paris in the '80s, or at the late-lamented Andre
Oliver in New York, imported from France. Later I purchased dress slacks, also
from Paris with a somewhat fuller leg, but double-pleated and low rise. These from
Arthur et Fox which has received excellent review in this forum. Finally,
a pair of flannels from the now-defunct San Francisco branch of Swaine Adney,
also short rise and double pleated and quite slim

Slim Pleated Pants?

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