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Hong Kong -- Where to Go for Custom Clothing? - Page 2

post #16 of 25
If you do go with three buttons, stay away from the peak. They almost always end up looking abbreviated, disallowed from flourishing in dramatic glory (think a nice morning coat).

Straight pockets is a good idea for you first suit.

Do you have a fabric design and weight in mind>?
post #17 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoopee
If you do go with three buttons, stay away from the peak. They almost always end up looking abbreviated, disallowed from flourishing in dramatic glory (think a nice morning coat).

Straight pockets is a good idea for you first suit.

Do you have a fabric design and weight in mind>?

Good points. In suiting tend to favor midweight fabrics -- mostly for trouser wear (I generally feel more comfortable in a slightly more substantial fabric). However, I could go for something lighter on this one. I have two Kiton jackets (one in cashmere and linen and one in cashmere and silk) that I love. I also have a Zegna 15milmil15 that I love.

Color and style are issues. I have several suits ... There are more than what's listed here but this is what comes to mind at present (still at the office):

Solid suits
1 med/charcoal gray / flannel* / 3 button [Neiman Marcus]
1 med/lighter gray / flannel / 2 button [Canali]
1 dark charcoal / tropical / 3 button [BB]
1 light gray / super 120s / DB [Purple Label - England]
1 navy / super 140s(?) / 3 cutton [Abboud collection]
1 khaki cotton 3 button summer suit
1 tan linen 3 button summer suit
1 black / tropical / 3 button [BB]

Striped / pattern suits
1 dark charcoal dot-stripe suit [Purple Label - England]
1 lighter gray glen plaid / flannel / 3 piece [Hickey Freeman]1 taupe/gray chalks tripe / flannel / 3 piece [Hickey Freeman]
1 chocolate brown chalk stripe / flannel / DB [Isaia]
1 navy chalk stripe / flannel / DB [HF]
1 navy thin stripe / tropical / 3 button [Valentio]
1 medium brown windowpane / midweight / 3 button [Vestimenta]
1 medium gray (with subtle windowpane) / heavy / 3 button [Oxxford]

* I use "flannel" to refer to heavier weight fabrics, not all are actual flannel

I wouldn't mind a medium gray (not charcoal) lighter suit but I don't want my decision to depend on what I already have. As I mentioned before, I may sell off some of my RTW items (I'm heavy in the grays) and want this to be my "go to" suit. A navy suit could be great, but I wonder why I haven't been more attracted to these to date.
post #18 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoopee
Oh, a couple other things.

Lining (and if you like a different sleeve lining)
Normal waist, side tabs, brace back
Rise (low, medium, high)

Lining (and if you like a different sleeve lining) - something personal but with style and taste - not sure yet
Normal waist, side tabs, brace back - normal for the more modern suit I'm considering, though I like side tabs.
Rise (low, medium, high) - in a more traditional suit I'd say high, but here normal. Not low.
post #19 of 25
Thread Starter 
Here are some inspirational pictures ... this isn't in line with what I'm thinking of for this suit, but it's some very nice custom work on trousers.
LL
LL
LL
post #20 of 25
Side tabs are a good choice for a more modern suit. Sleeker and saves one the time of having to find matching belts.

Navy suits can a bit dull. Two ways to deal with this are to do a dramatic cut or to choose an interesting fabric. It doesn't sound like you're looking for the former on this first suit, which is probably a good idea.

Chan carry a couple nice midweight Scabal and Holland & Sherry books. You could try a subtle navy windowpane, or a herringbone so that the suit will have some depth and interest up close. Some of the self-stripe/herringbone "solids" by Zegna (and Loro Piana) are very striking and modern, though of course not the heaviest nor most durable.
post #21 of 25
May I ask who made those trousers? Flusser?

Which reminds me, also consider if you would like the trousers lined.
post #22 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoopee
May I ask who made those trousers? Flusser?

Which reminds me, also consider if you would like the trousers lined.
Spano.

Yes, I'd like them lined, but not sure how far down.
post #23 of 25
I would suggest visiting a few tailors your first day in Hong Kong. Tailors have house styles because that is what they are comfortable doing and know how to do best. Trying to deviate too much may not get you the best results.

I was in Hong Kong a few months ago and before I went I did a little research and planned on going to Chan, A Man and Jantzen. I wear a 44L OTR with almost no alterations but wanted higher rise trousers and a properly fitted vest with a suit.

At Jantzen I first ordered a couple of shirts to check measurements and then ordered 8 more. I also got a pair of trousers and odd vest. Price made me try the vest and trousers. For the little I paid, I was pleased and will have them make a few more pairs of trousers next time I am there. Not the best trousers but very good value for everyday wear. Next time I will also supply my own fabric.

I went to A Man since I was looking for a British cut suit. I was happy with examples I saw. While there a couple of patrons were being fitted for suits and I had a chance to speak with them about A Man and other tailors they had used. I decided to order the suit and am pleased I did. While the vest from Jantzen fit well, the vest from A Man was in another league. The price was commiserate with the fit.

I never made it over to Chan's since I had already found everthing I needed.
post #24 of 25
Thread Starter 
How do A-Man's prices compare with Chan's? If the price was right I'd do a vest at Jantzen, but I'm saving my suiting for that "other" league.
post #25 of 25
Thread Starter 
Any collective comments on the style notations thus far?
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