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Weird fusing canvassing story...

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
the Target blazer thread over in Streetwear reminded me that I meant to post this.

A whole bunch of Matt-threads about to converge into this post....

I posted earlier about my friend who is leaving Vietnam going to one of the crappy tourist tailors, where they churned out 2 crappy suits for him. One three button that has all the hallmarks of a VN-made suit (too big allround, proves he is rich cos can afford more wool).

The other is a 5 button abomination. Solid black. Less said about that the better.

Anyhow, I had told him in advance to insist on getting them canvassed, explained to him in ultra basic terms what that means so that he can easily pass it on to the tailors. Which he did. Negotiated to pay an extra 100000 dong for it ($6.50)

Later he and I went to the cheapest tailor on Earth, who had a couple of works in progress hanging on mannequins, one fused, one canvassed, and so he saw what I was talking about.

He went back for his fitting at tourist land a few days later (without me, I was in Hanoi), and lo-and-behold, it was fully fused. Recognising this, he complained and they said that they sew in the canvas later, the glue work here is just for fitting.

He said 'ok' and figured 'Matt-dont-know-shit'.

Called me and told me, and I said to make them unpick the lining and show you the canvas when you collect it, since there is no way they can 'unfuse' it.

So I come back from Hanoi, he has his shiny new suits and I asked about them. They unpicked it for him as directed and they had sewn in a canvas ("make from head of horse" ) over top of the fusing.

I said 'huh'

He said 'yup'

Apparently the tailor says this will be very strong, good. "Best I ever do make"

His logic - and it may be sound I guess - is that since one of the main problems of fusing is that the glue dissolves with age and dry cleaning, the fact that the fusing as well as the canvas are sewed in place will mean that it is structurally sound. That is very Vietnamese logic, but it may well hold water.

Anyhow, strange, but he has his horrible suits and he is wearing them with pride, so I'll shut up. Thought I'd relay it here though.

PS - the jacket from the cheapest tailor on Earth came out great, very nice fit. Full canvas. I am gonna make a jacket there soon. He is currently making me some bespoke jeans
post #2 of 9
So there are two chestpieces inside now? The fused one and an additional? Sounds ... rather warm.
post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
yup exactly.
post #4 of 9
Yes, something similar has happened to me! At the fitting, no fusing only canvas, when delivered - canvas + fusing! It was never very clearly explained to me as to what transpired. But what I gather was that one of the tailors had NEVER seen an unfused garment. And proceeded to fuse it.

This is on a 20 oz tweed. Needless to say, it does keep me warm
post #5 of 9
The whole thing is hilarious. Obviously, there is a difference between the value systems in the two cultures in interpreting what is a good or desirable garment
post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarthewild
...
This is on a 20 oz tweed. Needless to say, it does keep me warm

And probably safe from small-arms fire and some shrapnel.
post #7 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarthewild
Yes, something similar has happened to me! At the fitting, no fusing only canvas, when delivered - canvas + fusing!
How does that work? So the canvas is underneath the fusing, meaning that it is basically shrinkwrapped under glued-on feltyfuseystuff?
post #8 of 9
Hmmm. I wonder if it can be explained by the warmer weather in Southeast Asia, and how tailors would rather fuse lighter fabrics to the canvas.
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by m@T
They unpicked it for him as directed and they had sewn in a canvas ("make from head of horse"
well, it is now obvious that the suit is italian-inspired, then. or is it german-irish?
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