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RULES for the tall and skinny man - Page 17

post #241 of 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmanouk View Post

Would like to make a few contributions to the thread. Firstly, I'm 6'4" weighing around 170lbs (used to be 180...slacked at the gym over the last few years!). Presently a 33 waist and 39 chest, 36 inseam.
For shirts, the no-brainer I've experienced is MTM. Used ModernTailor thus far with good, cheap results.
Was looking around for a while for undershirts. Finally purchased some MT (medium-tall, not modertailor haha) white v-neck ones from LandsEnd. Not a bad deal with the 40% off they had a while ago, and they fit pretty well. You can actually call and get any measurement you want if you're unsure of a purchase.
Tried the MT v-neck sweaters, but I find those a big baggy...little disappointed as i was happy with the price point. If anyone else can recommend a fairly cheap MT sweater I'd be thrilled.
Was wondering if anyone could comment on the LandsEnd Medium Tall sport shirts. I'm looking for some to wear casually (untucked, I'm a student so I'm not tucking my shirt in regularly), and don't mind getting the torso slimmed if needed. If there are any other recommendations that would be great.
Finally, in regards to sweaters, I have this one from Le Chateau that a friend gifted me. It's a size L, and fits almost exactly like the Lands'End one, except it is trimmer at the waist! Something to think about.

Land End (and LLBean) Medium Tall sizing works well for me, after I take the shirts to a tailor to have the body (chest) trimmed up.

My first MTM jacket was a Samuelsohn. I really like the brand, since it hits a sweet spot in quality for price (i.e. Sammy makes probably the least expensive canvassed jacket available) and, more importantly for this thread, they have XL (extra-long) sizes available. My MTM jacket was actually made on a 40XL frame.

I find that most sweaters are made with longer sleeves than shirts, so depending on the maker I can wear either a Small or Medium size to fit my body well and the sleeves are still long enough for my 36.5" arms. Before I discovered this, my winter wardrobe consisted of only dress shirts (Lands End MT), flannel shirts (in Tall sizes), and rugby shirts.
post #242 of 316

I disagree with the "rule" of not wearing cotton (chino) pants.  J. Crew makes really good urban slim chinos that are flawless.  I have two pairs of the urban slim fit essential chino and they fit great.  

post #243 of 316
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TauKappaEpsilon View Post

I disagree with the "rule" of not wearing cotton (chino) pants.  J. Crew makes really good urban slim chinos that are flawless.  I have two pairs of the urban slim fit essential chino and they fit great.  

The thing with cotton is it needs to be filled out (by your body) to look good. A less than perfect cut on a skinny (i.e. bony) body can look fine in wool but shit in cotton. Applies to jackets and pants).

If you find a perfect cut cotton piece, like you seem to, then it can work.

But that's why it's a "rule". More of a guideline, I guess.
post #244 of 316
Thread Starter 
a couple brands to add:


Dunderdon - unsurprising, as it's Swedish. Good length in body, arms, and P2P.

All Saints - it's been mentioned before, but their long construction on almost everything gives us some good options for sweater, tees, and even jackets.
post #245 of 316

Appreciate the post....even if it was in 2009.

post #246 of 316

Hi there, first post, non-native speaker (so if I sound rude or make mistakes, that's mostly unintended.)

 

With people considering themselves tall at 5'11" in this thread, recmommending wearing size M sweaters....I might be better of starting a new topic called " RULES for the 'Cast out from society'-type of tall and slim Nord" or "RULES for the 1%, mondo del freaks".

 

I'm 200cm tall (6'7") and weigh ~100 Kg (220 lbs). I always considered myself really tall, but to you guys I'm probably aready circus type material. Quit throwing peanuts at me.

 

The advice I can give other non vertically challenged people is to learn how to alter and tailor clothes yourself. It's easy once you've practiced enough. You just won't find clothes that are long and slim enough to fit our astral bodies.

Buy your t-shirts so that the neck, the shoulders and the sleeves fit and take the rest in via the pinch and pin method. Check youtube for a myriad of tutorials on this. Chinos can be tapered easily too. Once you've learned that the investment of a sewing machine amortizes within a few month. I paid for my chain stitch sewing machine 200€ and would have paid thrice that much at a local alterationist for all the jobs I can now do myself. In addition you need a seam ripper and threads.

T-Shirt (Click to show)

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Chinos (Click to show)

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Navy Gilet by BOGNER

H&M Sweater

tailorstore shirt

Brown leather belt Pierre Cardin

Navy Chinos Hugo Boss

Blake boat shoes by G.K. Mayer

 

I might have to look in the "don't wear cotton" type of conspiracy I just learned about, seems to be a lot of truth to it.

 

 

Since I have yet to find affordable MTM sweaters I only ever wear shirts underneath pullovers. There's just nothing i can do with 29 inch sleeves (38,5 inch if you measure traditionally).

 

Pullover (Click to show)

 

 

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Spruce green pullover by Hugo Boss (size XL)

Indigo jeans by Hugo Boss

Brown leather belt noname

shirt by tailorstore

 

 

That leads us to the next point: Shirts. Various possibilites through online platforms, cheap labour in china, sri lanka, vietnam and world wide shipping within a few weeks makes perfect fitting shirts possible. Online MTM tailor are a godsend. I've tried so many of them. (charles thyrwitt, itailor, youtailor, moderntailor, hemdenschneider, propercloth, joe button, tailorstore etc.) As of now I own more than 40 shirts and counting. Linen, oxford, herring bone, two ply, single ply, satin, flanel, chambray. Many of them crap, some of them decent and a lot of them really really good. All of them dead cheap compared to what you get.

 

Shirts (Click to show)

 

 

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SDC12039.jpgSDC12044.jpgSDC12043.jpg

 

 

 

I can't recommend many of the afformentioned sites, often their fabrics are cheap, sometimes the stitching is mediocre, some buttonhole stitching done by machines waves goodbye after a few wears, many times the collar and cuff inlays bulge and wrinkle after a few washes, some shirts I receive aren't true to the measurements, some customer support employees are unfriendly, some don't answer at all, some orders took 8 weeks to deliver etc. pp. It's basically a giant crap shoot, you can get lucky but most of the times you won't. Before you order, make sure to read as much about the side and their offer as possible, reviews, information on the website etc. Not all measure the same way and you can't transfer your profile 1:1 to another side, some add more movement ease at waist, hip and chest than others etc.

 

The one site I stand by is Tailorstore.co.uk (or .com or .de etc...) their fabrics range from $54-$149 and their site is well built and the shirt creator is idiot proof. They offer polo shirts, underwear and chinos, too but I've never ordered anything besides shirts and pocket squares of them, so I can't offer any advice or recommendation on these items.

 

They deliver usually within less than 9-10 days. They are a svedish based company and manufacture in Sri Lanka (don't know about the working conditions) and they offer multilingual customer support. I've had frequent contact with a German speaking employee which was probably the friendliest and most helpful person I've encountered in my life.

The shirts are in perfect quality and exceeded my expectations from the beginning. i used to wear Ermenegildo Zegna and Boss shirts for twice the amount of money and they are easily in the same league. They almost every option for a shirt you can imagine.

 

these were the pros. the cons are simply, that even though that they have over 200 different garments, most of them are too colourful for my taste and many patterns wouldn't work on slim cut shirts. giant ass patterns in bright orange and blue might work on someone more on the obese side of the spectrum. Basically they offer 20 fabrics which look great and are worth ordering but after that I haven't found anything which I would crave for.

 

If you are new to the MTM procedure get started at moderntailor.com, they offer two different trial shirts, right now a light blue oxford and a black single ply. get the oxford and knock yourself out with the design options. (I'm not too fond of the quality at moderntailor, but it's okay and far better than most online tailors)

 

I recommend getting measured by your SO or a friend. When measuring and in doubt size up an inch, it's better too wide than to tight. The first MTM shirt will usually suck but when you get the jist of it the second or third shirt after meausrement refinements will fit awesome and you will never go back to off the rack.

 

Last topic shoes, thank god that I have "small" feet compared to my height, US12 / UK11 / EUR46, so basically everything from Loake (entry leveled goodyear welted shoes from brittain with an ever cheaper line made in India) to Heinrich Dinkelacker (high end German handcrafted footwear) fits. I really dodged a bullet there, considering there are people far smaller with size 13,5.

 

 

tl;dr: I recommend MTM shirt tailor (tailorstore.co.uk and moderntailer.com), scandinavian sized brands like J.Lindeberg and some of the stuff Hugo Boss (mostly Hugo and Hugo Boss Orange, some of the stuff Boss Black offers, too) offers, they are both cut slimmer and longer (at least on the european market). I have tiny feet and I'm thankful for that every day.


Edited by clapeyron - 3/16/12 at 5:27pm
post #247 of 316

6'0"/150,

 

Awesome thread.

 

I wear Charles Tyrwhitt slim fit 15/35 (didn't see them named yet). Be warned that while the sleeve measurement is pretty standard, they will shrink 1 to 1 1/2 inches after a few washings (I wear a 33/34 inch sleeve). On the flip side, I have never had to get any of my shirts tailored.

post #248 of 316

In case you are looking for tall, SLIM and long undershirts for very cheap, check out this site.

post #249 of 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian_Flyte View Post

The thing with cotton is it needs to be filled out (by your body) to look good. A less than perfect cut on a skinny (i.e. bony) body can look fine in wool but shit in cotton. Applies to jackets and pants).

If you find a perfect cut cotton piece, like you seem to, then it can work.

But that's why it's a "rule". More of a guideline, I guess.

I can't imagine a man having legs so skinny and a lack of ass to the point that JC's Urban Slim fit pants wouldn't work if sized properly. There are plenty of slender cotton chino options out there that would work.

EDIT: Got my JC pants fits mixed up. 484 Slim is actually the brands "skinny" fit and the one I meant to refer to.
post #250 of 316

How have I only just noticed this thread? I'm 6" 3 and weigh in at 140lb so I'm pretty damn thin.

 

Since you had a go at cotton pants in the starter post I would like to post my solution to this - I take them to a tailor and get them tapered to as-slim-as-possible-but-not-skinny but also have them add a cuff, even though chinos are informal (Usually go for 2" - 2.5" cuff) . I find the cuff makes them drape more flatteringly but I've become obsessed with making sure my trousers break perfectly as this really is the defining factor for thin people on whether trousers look good.

 

Also, for shirts - TM Lewin slim and tailored fit shirts come in long armed sizes too and fit pretty well in the body too.

post #251 of 316

This might be the wrong thread as I'm hardly even 5'11" but have long legs.  Any makers of decent pants available in 34" inseam?  I don't have much to spend generally so it's dockers and levis for me but they rarely if ever offer 34".  I can wear 32" pants but if they shrink even a little they look like high waters on me, and I'm not into the euro no break look.

 

The above post got me thinking about the cuffs, I would need to buy unhemmed or 36" pants to have them cuffed at the tailor...


Edited by wesmamyke - 4/9/12 at 9:02pm
post #252 of 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by wesmamyke View Post

This might be the wrong thread as I'm hardly even 5'11" but have long legs.  Any makes of decent pants available in 34" inseam?  I don't have much to spend generally so it's dockers and levis for me but they rarely if ever offer 34".  I can wear 32" pants but if they shrink even a little they look like high waters on me, and I'm not into the euro no break look.

The above post got me thinking about the cuffs, I would need to buy unhemmed or 36" pants to have them cuffed at the tailor...

Levi's makes up to a 36" inseam. Wool, corduroy, moleskin, and linen trousers come unfinished and ready for cuffing, I have them cuffed or hemmed to 36", so you should have no problem IF you can find them in your price range. I relentlessly shop the outlet stores and www.sierratradingpost.com
post #253 of 316

Question for you really thin guys, (e.g. 6" 3 and 140 lbs):

 

When getting custom shirts, what type of fit do you go for? I am 6" 0 and 133 lbs, but I find that fitted shirts would make me look like a stick, but then baggier shirts would look baggier... how do you find a balance? is it even possible?

post #254 of 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtfin View Post

Question for you really thin guys, (e.g. 6" 3 and 140 lbs):

 

When getting custom shirts, what type of fit do you go for? I am 6" 0 and 133 lbs, but I find that fitted shirts would make me look like a stick, but then baggier shirts would look baggier... how do you find a balance? is it even possible?

 

I think your question is both asked and answered, but here goes: avoid the extremes on either end. Go for a close fit, but not a tight fit. Nothing you wear is going to hide the fact that your physique resembles that of a reanimated skeleton -- but a too-tight fit will draw attention to it, and a too-baggy fit will make you look clownish and ridiculous. This is going to be one of those Goldilocks types of things: you'll probably need to try out a couple varieties of fit until you settle on one that flatters you as best it can.

 

I'm not going to tell you to "go eat a sandwich," as seems to be the typical response to questions like these. But if a dude is anywhere in the vicinity of 6'3 and 140lbs, he needs to realize that he's frighteningly skinny, and that no shirt fit is going to disguise it. There are certain body types that simply resist being flattered by clothing, and too-skinny is one of the trickier physiques in this regard.

post #255 of 316

Nice to see that you used 6 ft 3 and 140lbs as your example for horrifyingly skinny... *sob*

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