Hi there, first post, non-native speaker (so if I sound rude or make mistakes, that's mostly unintended.)
With people considering themselves tall at 5'11" in this thread, recmommending wearing size M sweaters....I might be better of starting a new topic called " RULES for the 'Cast out from society'-type of tall and slim Nord" or "RULES for the 1%, mondo del freaks".
I'm 200cm tall (6'7") and weigh ~100 Kg (220 lbs). I always considered myself really tall, but to you guys I'm probably aready circus type material. Quit throwing peanuts at me.
The advice I can give other non vertically challenged people is to learn how to alter and tailor clothes yourself. It's easy once you've practiced enough. You just won't find clothes that are long and slim enough to fit our astral bodies.
Buy your t-shirts so that the neck, the shoulders and the sleeves fit and take the rest in via the pinch and pin method. Check youtube for a myriad of tutorials on this. Chinos can be tapered easily too. Once you've learned that the investment of a sewing machine amortizes within a few month. I paid for my chain stitch sewing machine 200€ and would have paid thrice that much at a local alterationist for all the jobs I can now do myself. In addition you need a seam ripper and threads.
T-Shirt (Click to show)
Chinos (Click to show)
Navy Gilet by BOGNER
Brown leather belt Pierre Cardin
Navy Chinos Hugo Boss
Blake boat shoes by G.K. Mayer
I might have to look in the "don't wear cotton" type of conspiracy I just learned about, seems to be a lot of truth to it.
Since I have yet to find affordable MTM sweaters I only ever wear shirts underneath pullovers. There's just nothing i can do with 29 inch sleeves (38,5 inch if you measure traditionally).
Pullover (Click to show)
Spruce green pullover by Hugo Boss (size XL)
Indigo jeans by Hugo Boss
Brown leather belt noname
shirt by tailorstore
That leads us to the next point: Shirts. Various possibilites through online platforms, cheap labour in china, sri lanka, vietnam and world wide shipping within a few weeks makes perfect fitting shirts possible. Online MTM tailor are a godsend. I've tried so many of them. (charles thyrwitt, itailor, youtailor, moderntailor, hemdenschneider, propercloth, joe button, tailorstore etc.) As of now I own more than 40 shirts and counting. Linen, oxford, herring bone, two ply, single ply, satin, flanel, chambray. Many of them crap, some of them decent and a lot of them really really good. All of them dead cheap compared to what you get.
Shirts (Click to show)
I can't recommend many of the afformentioned sites, often their fabrics are cheap, sometimes the stitching is mediocre, some buttonhole stitching done by machines waves goodbye after a few wears, many times the collar and cuff inlays bulge and wrinkle after a few washes, some shirts I receive aren't true to the measurements, some customer support employees are unfriendly, some don't answer at all, some orders took 8 weeks to deliver etc. pp. It's basically a giant crap shoot, you can get lucky but most of the times you won't. Before you order, make sure to read as much about the side and their offer as possible, reviews, information on the website etc. Not all measure the same way and you can't transfer your profile 1:1 to another side, some add more movement ease at waist, hip and chest than others etc.
The one site I stand by is Tailorstore.co.uk (or .com or .de etc...) their fabrics range from $54-$149 and their site is well built and the shirt creator is idiot proof. They offer polo shirts, underwear and chinos, too but I've never ordered anything besides shirts and pocket squares of them, so I can't offer any advice or recommendation on these items.
They deliver usually within less than 9-10 days. They are a svedish based company and manufacture in Sri Lanka (don't know about the working conditions) and they offer multilingual customer support. I've had frequent contact with a German speaking employee which was probably the friendliest and most helpful person I've encountered in my life.
The shirts are in perfect quality and exceeded my expectations from the beginning. i used to wear Ermenegildo Zegna and Boss shirts for twice the amount of money and they are easily in the same league. They almost every option for a shirt you can imagine.
these were the pros. the cons are simply, that even though that they have over 200 different garments, most of them are too colourful for my taste and many patterns wouldn't work on slim cut shirts. giant ass patterns in bright orange and blue might work on someone more on the obese side of the spectrum. Basically they offer 20 fabrics which look great and are worth ordering but after that I haven't found anything which I would crave for.
If you are new to the MTM procedure get started at moderntailor.com, they offer two different trial shirts, right now a light blue oxford and a black single ply. get the oxford and knock yourself out with the design options. (I'm not too fond of the quality at moderntailor, but it's okay and far better than most online tailors)
I recommend getting measured by your SO or a friend. When measuring and in doubt size up an inch, it's better too wide than to tight. The first MTM shirt will usually suck but when you get the jist of it the second or third shirt after meausrement refinements will fit awesome and you will never go back to off the rack.
Last topic shoes, thank god that I have "small" feet compared to my height, US12 / UK11 / EUR46, so basically everything from Loake (entry leveled goodyear welted shoes from brittain with an ever cheaper line made in India) to Heinrich Dinkelacker (high end German handcrafted footwear) fits. I really dodged a bullet there, considering there are people far smaller with size 13,5.
tl;dr: I recommend MTM shirt tailor (tailorstore.co.uk and moderntailer.com), scandinavian sized brands like J.Lindeberg and some of the stuff Hugo Boss (mostly Hugo and Hugo Boss Orange, some of the stuff Boss Black offers, too) offers, they are both cut slimmer and longer (at least on the european market). I have tiny feet and I'm thankful for that every day.
Edited by clapeyron - 3/16/12 at 5:27pm