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RULES for the tall and skinny man - Page 15

post #211 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by mispoke View Post
I have a grey pinstripe 3-button suit that I regret buying (because of the pinstripes).
This is all I have to wear to an upcoming event, and was wondering if there is any way to mitigate the lengthening/thinning effect.
I think throwing a pocket square in there would help (and only buttoning middle button), but do let me know what else.

Maybe wear a white shirt and a burgundy tie so there is a lot of contrast in the middle.
post #212 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd6060 View Post
Maybe wear a white shirt and a burgundy tie so there is a lot of contrast in the middle.
yeah, the rule is that i have to have some purple, so I'm thinking purple tie on white shirt. any idea about the tie though? patterned? checkered? plain?
post #213 of 317
hey guys,

any ideas about shorts for the summer? or swimming trunks?
post #214 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by mispoke View Post
hey guys,

any ideas about shorts for the summer? or swimming trunks?

Are you asking about what not to wear? I would give my right arm to be able to wear shorts, but my skinny legs just don't make it possible. It's not so much the calf muscle which is around 14.5 inches around, but it's the long skinny bit below the calf muscle going down to the ankle. If only it was fashionable to wear shorts with socks. Someone start a trend for me.
post #215 of 317
Hello everyone,

As a new member, I have been reading through pages of Styleforum. As a rather tall man, I appreciate this thread and all the specific recommendations regarding fit. Thanks for the helpful information.

As I am not terribly skinny (6'6" and 205 lbs.), I find that 42L suits off the rack fit my shoulders. The sleeve length OTR quite often ends perfectly on my wrist transition. My main concern is that a typical Long jacket tail stops perhaps an inch to an inch and a half higher than it should (as I am advised by someone more knowledgeable than myself.)

I have scrutinized many images on this site and other places and it seems that many jackets today are shorter than I would expect and do not appear to fully cover the wearer's seat. Am I misinterpreting what it means to cover one's seat? Does this mean that I should see a separation between my pants legs at the bottom hem of my jacket?
post #216 of 317
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. K. View Post
Does this mean that I should see a separation between my pants legs at the bottom hem of my jacket?

Basically yes, although it depends how tight your pants are on your bottom. The "cover your seat" rule basically means you're not seeing an outline of your ass cheeks or crack, because that's considered feminine/vulgar/wrong. If your pants aren't that tight, you can get away with a slightly (by which i mean, like, an inch) shorter jacket.
post #217 of 317
Sebastian,

Thanks for the advice. I will keep it in mind. Currently shopping for a suit and considering MTM in order to get the coat length just right.
post #218 of 317
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. K. View Post
Sebastian,

Thanks for the advice. I will keep it in mind. Currently shopping for a suit and considering MTM in order to get the coat length just right.

No prob, although honestly, for a 6'6'' guy the rules start to get tossed out the window If you're showing a bit of bottom on the 42L, don't sweat it I say. Jackets have been getting higher and higher over the past decade anyhow.
post #219 of 317
bumping:

I'm 6'5 with 165lbs, and just wanted to add a few brands here that I had good experiences with

Suits:
Alexander McQueen
Dolce & Gabbana Martini, as stated before
Gucci
Hugo Boss (although I never bought one)
tried on a Tom Ford jacket that fit perfectly as well, alas...$$

Sweaters:
Prada Sport
Costume National
John Smedley
Burberry Prorsum

No consistent "good fit" here though, changing seasons and changing cuts- What brands would you suggest? H&M's cut this season is not good enough, same with sports jackets, too short, too wide, crazy.

Chinos:
Acne Gin (women's line! I wear my jeans at 30, but Acne Gin is still a bit loose with 29- probably also because I'm not wearing the chino on my hips but higher up). I actually "cuff" the chinos in so far as that I flip & iron the fabric to create a trouser-like appearance. so I agree with some previous comments- as long as the fabric does not touch the shoes it will all fall nicely.

Jeans:
Dior --- APC is just not long enough

Sport Jackets:
Almost impossible. I have a really interesting Italian down jacket in XL with arms that are long enough, but short overall length-



Whatever sports jacket, French (Dior), Italian (Fay) or other designers, the shoulders are always too tight and the waist is always too wide and/or overall length is too short. Any suggestions here?
post #220 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post
There are no rules for the tall and skinny......

post #221 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by acconrad View Post
Rule #1:

Eat a goddamn burger, men should not be skinny.

How do you know if you fall into said category?

Take the number of inches taller you are than your girlfriend * 5 = someNumber

If your weight - someNumber < girlfriend's weight

You are effectively skinnier than your woman if she were your height. Please feed burger to mouth immediately.

Example:
Man, 6'4'' 160
Woman, 5'5'' 110

heightDifference = 6'4''-5'5'' = 11''

someNumber = 11*5 = 55

160-55 = 105 --> essentially what man would weigh if he were as tall as his woman

105 < 110

Man is skinnier than woman. Man needs to stop weighing like a woman and put on some weight.




That's what a girl sees when she spots a tall, skinny guy in a well tailored suit at a fancy restaurant chowing down on a New York steak, smothered in mushrooms........
post #222 of 317
i would say yummy. only that im that guy. well soon, with the expensive habits part Im about 6.5-6.6 and weigh around 165. isnt wearing alot in the attitude? ive seen alot of tall skinny guys wearing clothes against the rules with outmost good results, looking sharp. cant we break the rules somehow. because we can look a way that the "normal" built man cant do..
post #223 of 317
Hi Guys, I'm 6'6" and 165lbs too ... just got a "mtm" Filson wool jacket that fits really well. They sell for about 30% over the retail price and you can work with them on the measurements. Can't wait for fall/winter to roll around again! Haven't found any other way to get a coat that fits, though. Michael
post #224 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. K. View Post
Sebastian,

Thanks for the advice. I will keep it in mind. Currently shopping for a suit and considering MTM in order to get the coat length just right.

Just saw your post. You might try Samuelson. It's really well-made for the price, but the key for you is that they make XL coats in the standard sizes. Even if you go MTM, the pattern can be based on a 42XL for you.
post #225 of 317
Hi Sebastian,
thanks for this thread (as well as the 38L thread). Lots of useful information in here. I'm not quite as lanky as some of the members in this thread, but I'm still of the tall and skinny type.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian_Flyte View Post
Rule #2: pants can be tapered below the knee for $30

Funny how I didn't learn this till the age of 27. The beanpole man can usually find pants that fit passably in the waist and thighs-- it's his tiny calves that create his dilemma. Well, dilemma no more: your tailor can easily taper pants below the knee. Experiment with different hem (i.e. pant leg opening widths). I go with 7.75'' or 8'', myself. To go full GQ, go even smaller.

Rule #3: 100% wool pants. Cotton is your sworn enemy!

By cotton, I mean khakis, chinos, etc. Not jeans, which is a different topic.

Since our legs are basically long sticks, most cottons and wool blend pants will branch off from our bodies and create odd angles on our legs, especially under the knee. Ever wonder why khakis look like utter shit on you? This is why. Even slim-cut and/or tapered. Since cotton and blend fabrics form edges easily and our legs are not filling them out, fabric pops away from the knee, the hem gets caught in shoelaces easily and starts bending and folding. 100% wool, however, drapes softly-- straight down-- and provides the most flattering look for us, especially in the lower leg and where the pants meet the shoes. 98% 2% Lycra is preeettty good still, but not as good as 100% wool; the fabric is decent but a bit too stiff. One exception I know to this general rule is 75% Tencel 25% cotton found in some brands (Marc by Marc Jacobs is one), which hangs more like wool.

Needless to say, get slim-cut 100% wool pants.

This is something I have also noticed, and in fact my most recent chinos I bought with the intention of having them taken in below the knee - it's nice to see that someone else can confirm my idea.

Also great to get some concept of what hem width works, I'll try 8", and depending on how happy I am, maybe go to 7" from there.

Cotton pants do tend to stick out at random angles, especially below the knee. Corduroy is slightly better, but not perfect. Wool and linen are much better in this regard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by obiter dictum View Post
I remember reading somewhere that tall and thin people shouldn't wear vertical stripes/patterns, because it exaggerates the tallness/thinness. Horizontal stripes/patterns work well on us, for the same reason. Makes sense to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tck13 View Post
Horizontal stripes on the shirts/sweaters help widen the upper half...
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinman View Post
(2) Horizontal details are my friend. This means I wear plaids, checks, horizontal stripes, and extra pockets (ticket pockets on jackets and suits, two chest pockets on shirts), epaulets on shirts, and shirt sleeves rolled up near the elbow. Until very recently I wouldn't wear vertical stripes, but I get away with them on top, since I have very long legs and a striped shirt elongates my torso. Beware plaid or checked suits, though. Most are made with longer vertical than horizontal lines to make the average hefty Joe look taller and thinner...not something I need.

Seems to be a consensus on horizontal stripes here. However, I'm wondering, how can one integrate horizontal patterns into a formal outfit? Of all my shirts, I only have a single horizontally striped one (polo shirts excepted), and that one is very casual. I attempted to integrate it with a blazer, but I don't think it went so well. Does anyone have any good working examples of horizontal patterns with a suit / sports coat?
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