or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › RULES for the tall and skinny man
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

RULES for the tall and skinny man - Page 14

post #196 of 316
very helpful thread, thank you.
post #197 of 316
I somehow missed this thread the first time around, but I'll post what works for me. For the record, my dimensions are:

6'3" 175 lbs. (due to lifting weights and eating 4 meals a day [or 3 meals plus protein shake]. I'm down from my max of 185 lbs. because I'm not working out enough, but still better than my high school physique, many years ago, when I was 6'3" and 135 lbs.).
15" neck
39" chest
36.5/36.75" sleeves
33" waist
36" inseam

Rather than writing about specific brands, I'll share my general guidelines:

(1) Fit is critical for people with a "custom" physique, so a good alterations tailor is most important. I'm making mine rich, since I now get almost everything I buy OTR tailored, including jeans. Shirts get taken in on the sides, armholes raised, and arms slimmed. Trousers usually get the waist and seat taken in and always get cuffed, unless there's not enough fabric (no cuffing on jeans though). I usually widen trousers below the knee. I don't want clothes clinging to my thin body and accentuating my slender build. 90% of my trousers are flat-front, but I will wear single pleats if they fit my waist and seat (it's really a good look and can add a little heft).

(2) Horizontal details are my friend. This means I wear plaids, checks, horizontal stripes, and extra pockets (ticket pockets on jackets and suits, two chest pockets on shirts), epaulets on shirts, and shirt sleeves rolled up near the elbow. Until very recently I wouldn't wear vertical stripes, but I get away with them on top, since I have very long legs and a striped shirt elongates my torso. Beware plaid or checked suits, though. Most are made with longer vertical than horizontal lines to make the average hefty Joe look taller and thinner...not something I need.

(3) Heavy and/or textured fabrics are good--flannels, linens, cavalry twill, tweeds, corduroy (wide-wale or waffle corduroy, no thin-wale cords) and denim.

(4) Layer whenever possible. Double-breasted jackets are great (I have a charcoal gray, double-breasted peacoat from Sterling that I love) and layering a sweater under a jacket adds visual weight. Cable-knit sweaters add bulk; crew necks minimize vertical lines and/or a long neck (I avoid most v-necks for this reason). I recently started wearing a knit vest and got multiple compliments. Vests are a great way for me to layer since they present no issues with sleeve length (and can add layers in summer, at least in some climates).

(5) Use color to break up vertical lines. I wear contrasting colors on top and bottom, a slightly wider belt than usual to break myself in half visually, and contrasting socks. The rule to match sock and trouser color is designed to elongate the leg line, not something I need, so I break the rule often.

If you can afford it, I recommend finding a good tailor and having a few basic pieces such as a navy blazer and a charcoal gray suit custom made. I have a custom blazer that fits like a dream and I wear it all the time.

My remaining challenges are finding a leather jacket and casual, button-up shirts. I now get my business shirts MTM, but can't find interesting fabrics for casual shirts. Nor can I find a tailor who will work with leather .

To summarize: Know your own body, know the rules of fit, color, and pattern, know when to follow the rules and know when to break them to get the look you want. There are certainly times when I want to celebrate my tall, slender physique and I know how to do that, too (For example, I really enjoy wearing my tuxedo in midnight navy with vertical shadow stripes [double-breasted, with peak lapels]).
post #198 of 316
Bumping this thread, because it is awesome. If only somebody could go through and edit out the posts with non-skinny people coming in here to tell us we need to "eat hamburgers" and "bulk-up" because being skinny is... bad? Or something? I don't know. I suspect jealously cause they can't fit into a Dior suit.

Anyway, for outerwear ToJ (Temple of Jawnz) is fairly awesome if nobody has mentioned them. They don't just make leather jackets.

For cheapo, one-season-throwaway cotton sweaters, check out H&M. Small fits me like a glove at 5'10" 140lb. Some are better made than others. At 25-30$, they are a steal. Avoid the really crap ones though. I'd rather have wool, but at 25$, who cares? Fit is key.

For pants, watch buy and sell forums for mabitex and incotex. I have bought their cotton dress pants. Hemmed to the right height (almost no break to no break) they work well. Plus the build quality is a steal for 65$ like people usually sell them.

Also for shoes, I disagree with some people. I think certain AEs work okay with slim leg openings if you have a narrow foot. *shrug*
post #199 of 316
not even the tiniest iota of useful information in the OP's post.
post #200 of 316
When talking to others don't refer to yourself as tall and skinny.
post #201 of 316
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aphextwin07 View Post
not even the tiniest iota of useful information in the OP's post.

tall skinny troll!
post #202 of 316
Is it too late to ?
post #203 of 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icarium View Post
If only somebody could go through and edit out the posts with non-skinny people coming in here to tell us we need to "eat hamburgers" and "bulk-up" because being skinny is... bad? Or something? I don't know. I suspect jealously cause they can't fit into a Dior suit.

Why can't the fatties go play somewhere else?
post #204 of 316
Thread Starter 
T by Alexander Wang seems to be another tall/skinny friendly brand. -- I'm currently selling a hoodie size medium that's 20.25'' P2P, 28.25'' sleeve, 28'' length (BoC). I've been happy with Lands End turtlenecks in size M, but I see they now carry Medium Talls. I will report back once they arrive.
post #205 of 316
Thread Starter 
Marks and Spencer now carries tons of suits in 38L, 36L and even 34L. They even carry sport jackets in 38L. Shipping to the US is now only 15£
post #206 of 316
Quote:
Originally Posted by HPress View Post
Why can't the fatties go play somewhere else?

lol and I am by no means a tall-skinny!
post #207 of 316
6 feet 4 and 177 lbs renders this thread a subscribe although it seems slightly all over the place at times. Still haven't read the whole thread but I like the list on page 5. Ought to be updated with Kris van Assche and Alexander McQueen though. A word of warning for the McQ pants though as they tend to be fairly short even when unfinished. KvA sweater are usually really nice with long bodies and sleeves.
post #208 of 316
Thank you for the great post! I have learned a lot and I guess I agree with you in Rule # 3. Now I understand why some of my friends look funny in chinos.
post #209 of 316
6'3"-6'4" 165 lbs Agree on the Nudie Slim Jims Fit me perfect but had to sell because they were too short (got 31x34) If I could find 31x36 SJDBT for less than the $205 on Nudie's website they'd be perfect
post #210 of 316
I have a grey pinstripe 3-button suit that I regret buying (because of the pinstripes).
This is all I have to wear to an upcoming event, and was wondering if there is any way to mitigate the lengthening/thinning effect.
I think throwing a pocket square in there would help (and only buttoning middle button), but do let me know what else.

Thanks!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › RULES for the tall and skinny man