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RULES for the tall and skinny man

post #1 of 317
Thread Starter 
I'm 6'1'', 140 lbs. I'm creating this niche thread as a sort of home base for the members of our forum who are around my height and weight. I see there are a good number of us from reading this thread. Some of this advice is spread around the forum, but it would be nice to have it all in one place, both for ourselves and future lanky freaks who join the forum in frustration. I have created threads for 38L and 36L suits (see my sig). But this thread is a place for more general style advice on clothing our emaciated bodies. Most of this applies to skinny dudes of any height, but these problems are more acute for the tall. Hopefully some of this helps-- please add any info you have for the good of your tall, skinny brothers Rule #1: get custom shirts. Little will fit you off the rack. I, for one, have been extremely happy with Vmclothiers.com, but there are many other options. Search SF. Rule #2: pants can be tapered below the knee for $30 Funny how I didn't learn this till the age of 27. The beanpole man can usually find pants that fit passably in the waist and thighs-- it's his tiny calves that create his dilemma. Well, dilemma no more: your tailor can easily taper pants below the knee. Experiment with different hem (i.e. pant leg opening widths). I go with 7.75'' or 8'', myself. To go full GQ, go even smaller. Rule #3: 100% wool pants. Cotton is your sworn enemy! By cotton, I mean khakis, chinos, etc. Not jeans, which is a different topic. Since our legs are basically long sticks, most cottons and wool blend pants will branch off from our bodies and create odd angles on our legs, especially under the knee. Ever wonder why khakis look like utter shit on you? This is why. Even slim-cut and/or tapered. Since cotton and blend fabrics form edges easily and our legs are not filling them out, fabric pops away from the knee, the hem gets caught in shoelaces easily and starts bending and folding. 100% wool, however, drapes softly-- straight down-- and provides the most flattering look for us, especially in the lower leg and where the pants meet the shoes. 98% 2% Lycra is preeettty good still, but not as good as 100% wool; the fabric is decent but a bit too stiff. One exception I know to this general rule is 75% Tencel 25% cotton found in some brands (Marc by Marc Jacobs is one), which hangs more like wool. Needless to say, get slim-cut 100% wool pants. Rule #4: 100% wool jackets. Cotton is, again, your enemy! The same basic rule applies to suit and sport jackets. Cotton clothes are meant to be filled in by the body, and when not filled out, angle away from the body. So a cotton jacket, even in your size, will tend to flare out from your waist. 100% wool will fall down, not stick out. Rule #5: double-vented jackets work best Single vented on the ultra thin man is playing with fire-- if the jacket's unbuttoned or just normally sized on you, there's a danger that the single vent will flare out on you, creating an extremely bad silhouette. A double-vent will fall down no matter how little your pathetic chest is filling in the jacket That said, if the jacket actually fits you properly, single vent is fine. What about Dior Homme, you ask? The reason single vent works on Dior is (I assume) because the jacket is sized/cut tighter in the chest and waist than most other brands and because the jacket is short (i.e. does not cover your entire rear), it has less tendency to flare. A ventless jacket has a similar problem to single vent-- the bottom of your jacket may bell out when unbuttoned if made from cotton. Nudie Slim Jims The best cut jeans for tall skinny man. Fits right in the upper thigh but isn't flamboyantly low-rise or tight in the crotch. Slim, but masculine. Fits right, but doesn't look like "skinny jeans." Sweaters: finally, some good news A medium sweater in almost every American brand is cut for what's considered the "average" male size: a 40R. The good news for us is that since sweater fabric is soft and drapes differently from a suit jacket, medium sweaters from most brands work well even for men who wear 38 and 36 chest suits. Some brands that work For pants: Theory, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marks & Spencer (the tall skinny guy's best friend), H&M, Kenneth Cole, Ted Baker... Know any others? Other stuff: most Swedish brands (Nudie, Acne, H&M, etc) are cut for us, since Swedes are tall and not fat. German brands: Adidas, Puma, Hugo Boss... again, because we resemble German build more than American (which is shorter and wider). That's a start-- chime in, fellow Ichabod Cranes.
post #2 of 317
Lots of great information in this post. Never realised why Khakis looked like crap on me! To add for shirts: In my quest for slim fitting shirts (I'm a 14.5 by 34/35) I have arrived to two solutions. One is the afformentioned MTM shirts. But since I am not patient enough to measure myself, recieve the shirt, and make alterations for the next shirt, etc., I pratically tried on every designer/brand shirt. Though I don't have measurements (should have!), I have noted that Gucci, Burberry (Made in Turkey shirts), Hickey, Versace, and Prada tend to have slimmer cuts and long sleeves. Not that fake 'slim fit' crap other brands pump out. Quality and fabric of the shirts, notwithstanding. With that said, in the end one can argue the MTM shirts would be cheaper with more options. For me, I liked the fact that I tried on the garment, and if I liked everything but needed a bit more slimming, I could take it to my trusted tailor. In the end, I averaged out $90~$100 per shirt after alterations and purchasing the shirts from Outlets/discount online. There is also a sticky in this forum on slim fit shirts, but its clogged with useless information, and rare golden bits hidden. The wiki page here may be of some assistance: http://styleforum.pbworks.com/Slim-fit+Shirts
post #3 of 317
Thread Starter 
^ Thanks-- I will definitely check out some of those higher-end shirt makers. Theory shirts also have longish arms (sometimes 25'' but often 26'') and are reasonably slim in Medium. What method do you have shirts taken in at the tailors? I have tried darting (I think my guy charged $15) but prefer when the entire sides are taken in (was like $30).
post #4 of 317
Wow, that khaki point is very interesting. I've always wondered why I've never found a pair that looked particularly good. My best advice is that plaid suits look better on tall, slim men than they do on anyone else. Striped suits, on the other hand, tend to exaggerate our proportions. I also happen to think that it's better to wear topcoats rather than overcoats, as there's something distinctly creepy about a tall thin person in a long coat. You should do a 34L thread for freaks like me.
post #5 of 317
Thread Starter 
^Interesting re: plaid. OVERCOATS-- you raise a very interesting point. I agree that overcoats and IMO trenches do not look good on us. Overcoats/car coats because they overwhelm our bodies. Trenches on us, IMO, can come dangerously close to looking feminine since the waist cinches in on us and the skirt flares out. I tend to wear coats that cover the butt and no further. Brand tip: Spiewak coats are excellent on us: slim with long arms.
post #6 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian_Flyte View Post
^ Thanks-- I will definitely check out some of those higher-end shirt makers. Theory shirts also have longish arms (sometimes 25'' but often 26'') and are reasonably slim in Medium.

What method do you have shirts taken in at the tailors? I have tried darting (I think my guy charged $15) but prefer when the entire sides are taken in (was like $30).

How is the quality on Theory shirts? I never actually tried one on, oddly enough. Only suits.

As for tailoring shirts, I get the sides tucked in which cost me $25. I haven't had any shirts darted as of yet...the first time I went in I asked for just darts, but my trusted tailor just recc'd a tuck. He slimmed the sides, and also carried it through to the sleeves, effectively slimming them as well. Haven't done anything else since! This allows me to pick and choose any brand/cut as long as the neck and sleeves are right. Hence I always add $25 to any shirt I look at
post #7 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscione View Post
Wow, that khaki point is very interesting. I've always wondered why I've never found a pair that looked particularly good.

My best advice is that plaid suits look better on tall, slim men than they do on anyone else. Striped suits, on the other hand, tend to exaggerate our proportions. I also happen to think that it's better to wear topcoats rather than overcoats, as there's something distinctly creepy about a tall thin person in a long coat.

You should do a 34L thread for freaks like me.

I feel peacoats look best. I have a double breasted peacoat from BR that looks great.

As for 34 sizes, I know Dior makes them. I don't think you'll have any luck finding 34L though...damn, I though I had it rough at 36R!
post #8 of 317
Thread Starter 
^Theory shirts are nice with some creative touches (like little metal buttons underneath the collar). Will they become family heirlooms? No But most shirts only last me a couple years anyway. Peacoats: agreed, ditto for any coat that length (covers the butt). Any coat reaching towards the knees has the danger of looking feminine, depending on the coat and cut. 34L: I've added what little info I have on this topic to my 36L thread.
post #9 of 317
Go designer Though I do mean this partially serious. Aren't a lot of designer brands like Dior Homme and Raf Simons basically made for tall, skinny people and made to make them look awesome? I'm talking mostly suits. I don't think the price range is too out there compared many MC brands that get lot's of love and if the fit is there, then it's there, and worth checking out. Example: Doctor Worm from SuFu in Raf Simons.
post #10 of 317
Thread Starter 
^Yeah, Dior Homme and Raf Simons are two I definitely want to explore further. The ultra-narrow shoulder on Dior works for some people. Not for me, unfortunately (I have wide shoulders).
post #11 of 317
If Nudie Slim Jims fit you lengthwise, you're not tall.
post #12 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sander View Post
If Nudie Slim Jims fit you lengthwise, you're not tall.

They do come in different lengths.

Its generally frowned upon by this forum, but I've been trying more fashion lines and brands and the fit is just so much better. I've had great luck with dior. For tailored wear I really like aquascutum, the 36 fits very slim and for the aquascutum ltd line it is even slimmer. For jeans nudie slim jims are pretty good, but I think nudie thin finns and dior 19cms fit better.
post #13 of 317
Shoes?

What is the average shoe width of all the tall and skinny folk?
As a narrow footer, I find narrow sleek shoes look better with the long sleek silhouette.

For those wearing anything narrower than an A (AA or AAA) the makers appear to be quite limited...
post #14 of 317
I have fairly narrow feet, in allen edmonds I could comfortably wear an A, but since I have started wearing english shoes from companies that don't make such narrow widths I have to buy shoes on more elongated slimmer lasts and they fit fine in medium.
post #15 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by fuji View Post
I have fairly narrow feet, in allen edmonds I could comfortably wear an A, but since I have started wearing english shoes from companies that don't make such narrow widths I have to buy shoes on more elongated slimmer lasts and they fit fine in medium.

Which companies and lasts?
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