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post #91 of 191
4/12/12 at 4:28pm
I've been wondering where the Zegna dress shirts fall in line with the other notables. Are they somewhere between T&A and Canali? I found one at Nordstram's Rack last year and you could immediately tell the difference by the way the buttons were sewn on, but the measurements were crazy and the shirt was still priced at $95.

Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?
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post #92 of 191
4/12/12 at 4:29pm
For better RTW try Finamore. Excellent fabric, nice details, great shape to the body, obvious but subtle hand work. Their plain white Oxford Cloth Button Down, for example, is about $400 at DeCorato in San Francisco. By comparison there are numerous brand name shirts in SF stores for around $400. Neimans and other retailers have brands such as Prada and Brunello Cucinelli that don't have anywhere near the handwork, the quality of cloth, the buttons and especially the tailored fit that you will find with a Finamore.

If you want a regular go anywhere, do anything white OCBD get a slim cut all cotton one from Brooks Brothers for $75. But if you want one that is just a bit sharper, feels a tad better, has a overall neater, crisper look, go with the Finamore.
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post #93 of 191
4/12/12 at 4:38pm
Above Canali and standard British shirts, but below the top Italian makers. Doesn't look like any hand work is used, fabric is very mice, collar has a beautiful medium spread, but it may not be slim enough for some. I just grab them at semi annual sales and the dress shirt events at Rosen when I need some shirts. Usually I keep my suit jacket on almost all the time, in these situations, good dress shirt is important, but not a dealbreaker.

Can't walk around with a cheap slim dress shirt and cheap slim khakis like the juniors, that would be a compromise to my dignity.
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post #94 of 191
4/12/12 at 6:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

For better RTW try Finamore. Excellent fabric, nice details, great shape to the body, obvious but subtle hand work. Their plain white Oxford Cloth Button Down, for example, is about $400 at DeCorato in San Francisco. By comparison there are numerous brand name shirts in SF stores for around $400. Neimans and other retailers have brands such as Prada and Brunello Cucinelli that don't have anywhere near the handwork, the quality of cloth, the buttons and especially the tailored fit that you will find with a Finamore.
If you want a regular go anywhere, do anything white OCBD get a slim cut all cotton one from Brooks Brothers for $75. But if you want one that is just a bit sharper, feels a tad better, has a overall neater, crisper look, go with the Finamore.

I hope you're not encouraging anybody to purchase a RTW Finamore shirt for $400,
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post #95 of 191
4/12/12 at 7:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles_ View Post

I have heard the new Borrelli shirts have plastic buttons frown.gif

Yep. I know that the decline of Borrelli shirts has been discussed on more than one occasion. Any way, over the past few years I have acquired Borrelli shirts of numerous different "levels" - the good old stock - nicer stitching, fat MOP buttons, pretty long sleeves, high construction quality overall. Then there was a "newer" stock which had the thinner MOP buttons. I am no expert with stitching or construction, but these looked OK, but still the feel a bit cheaper or machine made that the older shirts. Then even more recently, I acquired a Borrelli shirt with...plastic buttons. The stitching def. seems all machine done. But I do like the fit. I don't know what retail is on these new ones, but they're not near the quality of the shirts 3-4 years ago.
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post #96 of 191
4/12/12 at 10:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cronicmole View Post

I hope you're not encouraging anybody to purchase a RTW Finamore shirt for $400,

It is the best $400 RTW shirt in downtown San Francisco. And, you can buy a BB for $75.
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post #97 of 191
4/13/12 at 1:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveoly View Post

Yep. I know that the decline of Borrelli shirts has been discussed on more than one occasion. Any way, over the past few years I have acquired Borrelli shirts of numerous different "levels" - the good old stock - nicer stitching, fat MOP buttons, pretty long sleeves, high construction quality overall. Then there was a "newer" stock which had the thinner MOP buttons. I am no expert with stitching or construction, but these looked OK, but still the feel a bit cheaper or machine made that the older shirts. Then even more recently, I acquired a Borrelli shirt with...plastic buttons. The stitching def. seems all machine done. But I do like the fit. I don't know what retail is on these new ones, but they're not near the quality of the shirts 3-4 years ago.

Funny. I bought three retail Borrellis last year and they were all good. MoP buttons, nice fabric and as much hand stitching as my older ones. I still have not come across a Borrelli with plastic buttons. To get the Borrellis with the magically thin and soft cloth you have to look for the Royal Collection and then they will almost cost as Kiton.

To give an opinion on the Zegna shirts as per the question above, I think the one I have fits in between Corneliani and Borrelli; nice buttons, O.K. cloth, all machine made.
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post #98 of 191
4/28/12 at 3:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Achilles_ View Post

I have heard the new Borrelli shirts have plastic buttons frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveoly View Post

Yep. I know that the decline of Borrelli shirts has been discussed on more than one occasion. Any way, over the past few years I have acquired Borrelli shirts of numerous different "levels" - the good old stock - nicer stitching, fat MOP buttons, pretty long sleeves, high construction quality overall. Then there was a "newer" stock which had the thinner MOP buttons. I am no expert with stitching or construction, but these looked OK, but still the feel a bit cheaper or machine made that the older shirts. Then even more recently, I acquired a Borrelli shirt with...plastic buttons. The stitching def. seems all machine done. But I do like the fit. I don't know what retail is on these new ones, but they're not near the quality of the shirts 3-4 years ago.

In all seriousness, I really doubt that they had plastic buttons.

All of the Borrelli shirts that I have seen over the past couple of years still have hand-stitched sleeveheads and the collar is still attached to the shirt by hand. The MoP buttons are thinner than in previous years but the buttons are still definitely, indubitably made of mother of pearl, no doubt at all.

Whilst I realise that a retailer can request that Borrelli make shirts of a particular level of finish, I don't think that Borrelli would make shirts with plastic buttons. As others have pointed out, at that level and with competition such as Finamore, Barba and so on, they just can't afford to have plastic buttons whilst the others have MoP.
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post #99 of 191
4/28/12 at 9:03am
I have Kiton, Borrelli, RLPL-Lorenzini, Charvet shirts... Kiton is the best. But i want to try Anna Matuozzo shirts..
I am thinking to visit Napoli soon. How much cost a Anna Matuozzo shirt ? You guys have any idea ? Do you think that it's better to get some Anna Matuozzo shirts or getting some kiton shirts on ebay or other stores in the price range of 180-230 ??
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post #100 of 191
4/28/12 at 10:17am
My best ones.

Bespoke: Turnbull & Asser!
Ready to Wear: Brooks Brothers.
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post #101 of 191
4/28/12 at 2:42pm
I'm having Mina of NSM make me some shirts for the first time. I'm eager to try them out.
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post #102 of 191
4/28/12 at 3:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

I'm having Mina of NSM make me some shirts for the first time. I'm eager to try them out.

+1.
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post #103 of 191
4/28/12 at 4:45pm
Remind me what NSM MTM shirts are running? 400?
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post #104 of 191
4/28/12 at 4:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

Remind me what NSM MTM shirts are running? 400?

They aren't MTM. They make a pattern shirt for you from a generic cloth,tweak the fit on you, then you place an order. I believe it is $250 euros = or $330 at todays exchange rate.
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post #105 of 191
4/28/12 at 4:58pm
What Gus said. I've got some quality MTM shirts from a good shop (not online, was measured in person). Based on the initial fitting with Mina, I anticipate these being markedly superior.
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