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Borrelli shirts - really that good? Who really makes best shirts in world? - Page 3

post #31 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevpotts View Post

Why would someone buy an expensive RTW shirt when in many cases you could have a bespoke made at the same price?  I'm asking honestly, I have never understood the practice of buying extremely high end RTW shirts.


I can think of two reasons: (1) you need a shirt right away and are strapped for time; or (2) you are considerably overweight, and thus the fit model for these OTR shirts. In other circumstances, going bespoke gives you the best bang for the buck. It doesn't have to be expensive -- just ask the numerous satisfied Jantzen and Chan customers.
post #32 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post


bespoke with the quality of a high end shirt would still cost more than the RTW shirt. true, fit would be better, but construction/fabric/handwork would be less.

I could be way off on this though. Just curious how much a bespoke shirt would cost with similar fabric and handwork that is on a borrelli or kiton?

my brother just got some "bespoke" shirts from some visiting tailor he was told about (NOT BY ME). when he told me the price i did a mental eyeroll and smiled at him. 8 weeks later he gets the shirts. even he as a much less picky/SF gheylord only kinda likes em. the fit is meh, the cotton is shit and the buttons are a joke.

basically there are a million tailors out there offering "bespoke" or "custom" and lots of it is total crapolla. its not so easy to find a great tailor with skill and top quality fabrics. and when you do its not gonna be on the cheap.

you have to pay for quality, whether its bespoke or RTW. some people like the convinience of RTW, others prefer the customization/attention of bespoke and some do both. either way, top shelf goods will always cost top shelf money in my experience. yes you can find deals here and there. and some people happen to have connections. but on the whole, you want to be a baller, you gatta pay baller dollar for it.

i dont know the answer to your question, or how AC fabric compares with borelli or kiton, but their custom shirtings start at about $200 a shirt, with a 4 shirt minimum.
post #33 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post


didnt truzzi make some shirts for mastai ferretti? I have one that seems to be pretty good. still not to par with kiton though

Yes - they have made some shirts for mastai ferretti. I don't believe those are as hand detailed as the mainline Truzzi's though.

I've never purchased a Kiton - so I have nothing to say about a comparison between the two.

So basically my response is useless! biggrin.gif
post #34 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


my brother just got some "bespoke" shirts from some visiting tailor he was told about (NOT BY ME). when he told me the price i did a mental eyeroll and smiled at him. 8 weeks later he gets the shirts. even he as a much less picky/SF gheylord only kinda likes em. the fit is meh, the cotton is shit and the buttons are a joke.

basically there are a million tailors out there offering "bespoke" or "custom" and lots of it is total crapolla. its not so easy to find a great tailor with skill and top quality fabrics. and when you do its not gonna be on the cheap.

you have to pay for quality, whether its bespoke or RTW. some people like the convinience of RTW, others prefer the customization/attention of bespoke and some do both. either way, top shelf goods will always cost top shelf money in my experience. yes you can find deals here and there. and some people happen to have connections. but on the whole, you want to be a baller, you gatta pay baller dollar for it.

i dont know the answer to your question, or how AC fabric compares with borelli or kiton, but their custom shirtings start at about $200 a shirt, with a 4 shirt minimum.

I think getting a bespoke shirt with the quality and handwork of a kiton or borrelli is gonna cost a dickload more than a RTW kiton/borrelli. Cant compare a jantzen to a RTW kiton. wink.gif

its a moot point, cause D aint a baller. hahaha
post #35 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post


Yes - they have made some shirts for mastai ferretti. I don't believe those are as hand detailed as the mainline Truzzi's though.

I've never purchased a Kiton - so I have nothing to say about a comparison between the two.

So basically my response is useless! biggrin.gif

ah. Id be interested in handling some truzzi mainline. the MF i have is pretty nice.


and go buy a kiton. ebay, B&S here, etc. iz worth it.
post #36 of 194
Thoughts on Anna Matuozzo and Finamore and Tom Ford as compared to Kiton?

I've got every other brand mentioned in this thread except Matuozzo and Finamore. They're all nice shirts - but the pre-2010 Borrellis are very, very nice, to answer OP's question. Kiton is definitely nicer than almost any Borrelli except perhaps the Super Sakellardis and Royal Collection lines, and at that point you're REALLY grasping at straws to differentiate.

Truzzi is nice but I don't find myself wearing it as much - the fit is a bit odd for me and I admit the hand detailing on other shirts does appeal to me. But for everyday beating, Truzzi/Fray/Charvet/T&A make amazing shirts to wear. Step it up a notch to an older Borrelli and you've more or less got a wardrobe, though of course you'll have room on the top end for the truly amazing stuff. Of course, there are also other lines of shirts that are great but not necessarily mainstream SF - Marol might be a good example. Point being, do your research and make sure you're paying for the level of quality found in the shirt, not the level of quality found in the marketing materials.
post #37 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWGP View Post

Thoughts on Anna Matuozzo and Finamore and Tom Ford as compared to Kiton?

Kiton are the best made RTW shirts out of this group. Only Charvet comparable in quality IMO.

Tom Ford are my favourite dress shirts though - I am a stickler for some designer labels despite being largely an anti-brand whore. Finamore are right behind - Im a big fan. As for Kiton, Im not such a fan of their designs, and see no need to go further than sporadic investments in regards to their shirts.

Kiton > Finamore > Tom Ford > Anna Matuozzo (her Bespoke is much much better than RTW).
Edited by Klobber - 8/31/11 at 11:11am
post #38 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klobber View Post


Kiton are the best made RTW shirts out of this group. Only Charvet comparable in quality IMO.

Tom Ford are my favourite dress shirts though - I am a stickler for some designer labels despite being largely an anti-brand whore. Finamore are right behind - Im a big fan. As for Kiton, Im not such a fan of their designs, and see no need to go further than sporadic investments in regards to their shirts.

Kiton > Finamore > Tom Ford > Anna Matuozzo (her Bespoke is much much better than RTW).

I tried out a couple TF shirts at niemans recently. From what i saw, no handstitching....is this correct or was i just not paying attention?

and i agree, im not much of a brand whore, but TF is a different story wink.gif
post #39 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post


I tried out a couple TF shirts at niemans recently. From what i saw, no handstitching....is this correct or was i just not paying attention?

and i agree, im not much of a brand whore, but TF is a different story wink.gif

TF shirts, out of the designer label stuff, are consistent with the best of Gucci, Prada, Giorgio Armani etc ... means a largely machine made shirt, nice fabrics, and good buttons. Not really Value for money, but TF excel at designing interesting and elegant shirts. I think it is a crime to compare them aesthetically to Gucci etc, but that is where their market largely lurks.
BTW, this comparison is not with the Gucci or Prada crap one picks up at outlets or on a bargain rack in a department store. Im referring to their lines of shirts costing well in excess of $400, not the sub $300 that one picks up occasionally. Anyway for my money, TF are boss when it comes to designer stuff.

I do have occasional flutters of fancy when it comes to brands like TF, Dior, Etro etc but usually only for "designer" aspects I could not pick up elsewhere. Generally I avoid them, particularly in regard to staple wardrobe pieces which take up over 70% of my closet. But there are some TF items I have that are my favourite items, particularly for their novelty or eccentric aspects.
post #40 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klobber View Post

I do have occasional flutters of fancy when it comes to brands like TF, Dior, Etro etc but usually only for "designer" aspects I could not pick up elsewhere. Generally I avoid them, particularly in regard to staple wardrobe pieces which take up over 70% of my closet. But there are some TF items I have that are my favourite items, particularly for their novelty or eccentric aspects.

good info here. and i agree, TF is the one "designer label" that i REALLY like.
post #41 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post



I really don't know where you guys buy your Borrelli shirts, as the ones stocked by a local menswear store are precisely the same as the pre-2009 shirts, except the buttons are thinner. The buttons are still MoP, but they are now the same thickness as standard buttons, not the "tablet thick" buttons that Borrelli of old used to have.

The newer ones, at least the ones I have bought, still have the same visible handwork around the sleeveheads and around the collar and the buttonholes are still, supposedly, hand-stitched. My tailor reckons that the buttonholes are probably stitched by a machine which imitates hand-stitching, but then he's been saying that for years now, so it's not a post-2009 observation.

Exactly. I buy mine in Italy. They are really as nice as "before 2009" with visible handwork and really nice fabric.

During sales in Italy, you can get :
Borrelli : 100 euro
Barba napoli : 60-80 euro (thick buttons, fine handwork, open collar,...)
Truzzi : less than 100 euro
Maffeis : 100 euro (fine handwork, fine cotton, ...)
Isaia : 100 euro
and so on.

For me, these are some of the most awesome RTW shirts.
I make my MTM shirts at a small tailor in Biella, they cost approx. 100 euro and they have a nice selection of fabrics.

If you want to visit italy and spend some money for clothing at the same time, ask me I'll give you guys good addresses smile.gif
post #42 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post


good info here. and i agree, TF is the one "designer label" that i REALLY like.

cheers.gif to that. Even more interesting, many outside this forum (and the other fashion forums) have never heard of TF, its almost as if they are underground. Exclusivity and elegance, that is the basis of sartorial excellence itself satisfied.gif.
post #43 of 194
frown.gif that in bmore there is no where to even see these shirts, let alone buy one.
post #44 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klobber View Post

. Exclusivity and elegance, that is the basis of sartorial excellence itself satisfied.gif.

youre a cool motherfucker. wink.gif
post #45 of 194
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

frown.gif that in bmore there is no where to even see these shirts, let alone buy one.

go to niemans in atlanta. ill meet ya there brosef. wink.gif

dont they have a neimans in DC? the NM in atl has a floor with isaia, kiton, TF, ermenegildo zegna, and armani rooms. I came. twice.
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