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Oxxford vintage overcoat: photo essay

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I purchased this vintage Oxxford overcoat on ebay recently, and thought some might be interested in seeing it.

As you can see it came from Bullock & Jones in San Francisco:



And is 50 years old. I assume, a MTM/special order:



Full view:



Quarter lined interior:



Turnback cuffs:



Unattached pocket seam to allow hands interior access:

(from outside)

(from inside)


Working lapel buttonhole (note, although designed to work, still it is a rounded hole rather than a keyhole)



Closeup of lapel buttonhole with nearly invisible pickstitching:



The edge folded back to reveal some of the guts:



The fit was surprising to me at first. It was very loose, and I had almost decided it was too big, but I measured the shoulders and they were even narrower than a Brooks Bros. overcoat I have that's tagged as a 38R (I generally wear a 40). The chest measured about right, too. The fit is billowy, an 'A' type body with no waist.

I ran across this picture posted by Tutee in one of his articles on London Lounge:



With some obvious differences (no fly front, no raglan sleeves, notch rather than peak lapels) the style is similar. He notes:
Quote:
This is rough Scotch tweed with fly front, peaked lapels, raglan shoulders and turned back cuffs. The loose fit is an important feature here.
I concluded the loose fit is part of the nature of the coat, simply one I was not used to.

There are a couple of issues with condition. There are a couple of very small moth bites (I assume) on one of the turnback cuffs, but as the cloth behind it is the same they are nigh invisible. There is also a place on the bottom front where it seems as though a thread has caught the front fabric or perhaps something has been repaired. I would probably need a magnifying glass to really see what's going on. It, too, is very minor, and not a concern for me.

All in all, not bad for $25.

(pardon the crosspost from AA, but I thought some here would like to see it)
post #2 of 17
Beautiful Alan and still going strong 50 years later. That's fashion.
post #3 of 17
Wow, Alan. Wonderful coat and great post. The quarter lining is beautiful and would be particularly appropriate for San Francisco. (And, of course, if you ever wish to return the coat to its hometown....) Thanks for sharing the pictures.
post #4 of 17
THANK YOU ! I really enjoyed those pictures and I think yoiu would have to look pretty close to determine what was 50 years old.
post #5 of 17
Good on you for such a find. Even after 50 years the coat is still going on strong - that's quality workmanship for you.
post #6 of 17
I'm jealous!!

congrats and wear it in good health. Thanks for sharing.
post #7 of 17
Like the cuffs, and the coat. Any chance of a shot of it being worn? The illustration has me curious.
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocHolliday
Any chance of a shot of it being worn? The illustration has me curious.

Any chance of it being worn by me? Well, if we ever get some cold weather in Alabama next winter it certainly will be worn, probably not to the race track, though. I'll need to move back to Kentucky for that.

The quarter lining should make it more versatile here, though.

And I'd love to see some of the things from the vaults at pejsek HQ.
post #9 of 17
I think Doc meant take a pic of you wearing it for posting - if so, I'll second the request!
post #10 of 17
Thread Starter 
Okay, yes, I'm slow today. I'll try to get one up tomorrow.
post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 
To satisfy the clamor for a picture of me in the coat (surely two people make a clamor ) I shall oblige. I am striking my best Breschian action figure pose.

Sorry, but I have on a polo shirt, but I did grab a blazer to wear under it. You can't see it, though. The shoulder measures at 18.25", from underarm to underarm is 22.5" and from the top of the collar to the bottom of the coat is 41". I generally wear a 40/41R.



post #12 of 17
That is just amazing, after 50 years that looks as nice today as it must of back in the day. If you didn't show the tag I would never of guessed it's age.
post #13 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by rssmsvc
That is just amazing, after 50 years that looks as nice today as it must of back in the day. If you didn't show the tag I would never of guessed it's age.
That's the beauty of a lot of timeless Anglo-American and may I dare add, much "Trad" fashion. Though perhaps an asute clothing critique or observer such as Manton might discern more than I do. Alan: a quesiton and a statement: 1) What's the Tate volume? 2) you're my thrifting/Ebay hero. edit: typo
post #14 of 17
Thread Starter 
Horace:

1) The one visible in the picture is a first edition of Essays of Four Decades.

2) You're very kind, but I'm an amateur compared to J, pejsek and mack.
post #15 of 17
Very nice. I just picked up a collection of essays that he edited on Eliot.
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