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Random fashion thoughts - Page 6456  

post #96826 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post


neither of these seem to be in CL's works. he is drawing on so many influences it's all over the place. skinny bottoms with larger tops, corse fabrics, unlfattering cuts but not in some ironic way, at times random colors thrown in...it's as if you take dries, hackermann, EG, make them all bad, and twist their threads into one collection....was never impressed handling the stuff and honestly i'd pay no attention to it were it not for people talking about it here.

I don't really see much of Dries or Hackman in CL. His exoticism seem much more grounded and utilitarian, more repro than romantic. The influences are all over the place but I find the mix successful in most case, and he's been pretty consistently referencing the same things since his days at Lacoste at least: 1930s sportswear, traditional asian cuts, colonial chic, 1980s new wave, Issey etc
post #96827 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

Lemaire and Damir tend to be lumped together because they share some of the same design references, work (used to work ?) with the same stylist and are featured together in Encens magazine (co-edited by their stylist, Samuel Drira) but the similarities are superficial at most.

Similarities are the 80s hexagonal shapes, the nods to womenswear and the ensuing similarities between men and women's collections.The long top, short top versus high waisted thing is also quite often used by the two.

I like Lemaire in theory but I've tried some stuff and it doesn't look good on me, too bad cause I wanted to kop the Kurta when it was on sale. Who else makes a good kurta?
post #96828 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

I don't really see much of Dries or Hackman in CL. His exoticism seem much more grounded and utilitarian, more repro than romantic. The influences are all over the place but I find the mix successful in most case, and he's been pretty consistently referencing the same things since his days at Lacoste at least: 1930s sportswear, traditional asian cuts, colonial chic, 1980s new wave, Issey etc

Yeah, the thing with Lemaire is that he seems to enjoy using the colour palette that was most common in times when dyes weren't as advanced and most clothing more muted (1930s sportwear/colonial past) but I don't think he borrows from asian cuts directly, more from 80s Issey...
post #96829 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by toothsomesound View Post

thanks for the heads up p4, looks like cool stuff. has ames done menswear before?

I don't really know much about him. You can find a couple looks around online (Google his name and "Prairie" for instance), but I haven't spent a lot of time digging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

I don't really see much of Dries or Hackman in CL. His exoticism seem much more grounded and utilitarian, more repro than romantic. The influences are all over the place but I find the mix successful in most case, and he's been pretty consistently referencing the same things since his days at Lacoste at least: 1930s sportswear, traditional asian cuts, colonial chic, 1980s new wave, Issey etc

Yeah, I think this is definitely true. In fact where I think he differs from Damir is that he is, as you put it, more utilitarian and repro, where Damir is the romantic version. If nothing else it is an interesting mix of themes that he manages to pull together into a coherent and consistent vision.
post #96830 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

I don't really see much of Dries or Hackman in CL. His exoticism seem much more grounded and utilitarian, more repro than romantic. The influences are all over the place but I find the mix successful in most case, and he's been pretty consistently referencing the same things since his days at Lacoste at least: 1930s sportswear, traditional asian cuts, colonial chic, 1980s new wave, Issey etc

ok i should clarify , i'm not saying what he does = dries, hack, eg peir wu etc.
the peir wu was what satisfies the generic criteria (feelings) B!CD listed for why he enjoys it. if that's what i was after then she instills the same emotions in me.

my point is every time i see a picture or an item on a rack from Lemaire I can't help but to think , oh there's someone else who's done this better: nicer fabric, more interesting print, greater exaggeration of proportions , etc. he's too stuck doing too many things while trying to anchor himself in the lacoste/hermes garbage he got himself into earlier. it's all over the place without appealing to me in any way. well that's my take on it anyway

superficial similarties to diagram what superficial my thought-process is







post #96831 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

Who else makes a good kurta?

Maybe Umit?
post #96832 of 109053
hermes garbage? he's still the women's creative director and that stuff is incredibly beautiful. I don't think that work informs his namesake collection per se though certainly it has his signature. I don't think he's trying to juggle that many things at all. you can trace a lot of references but the looks are, to me, very coherent.

it sounds like he' s just not your cup of tea. he's not an extremely exaggerated or radical designer. he does subtle things that I think are really elegant.
post #96833 of 109053
i wouldn't presume to force my opinion on anyone and isn't that what we're all discussing here, our respective cups of tea ? i prefer more exotic leaves, so to speak.
post #96834 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

Who else makes a good kurta?

depends how you wanna distinguish between that and just a henley or a throne-collar (or mao collar) but everything from thamanyah to cdg to vlas to leder has 'em.

jackwhite_and_meg-img403x600-1396002023wy1xgw22809.jpgjackwhite_and_meg-img403x600-1396081391e0m6rl32460.jpg

if you don't mind the horrible name, poheme bohemien has some every season. siki actually made one that wasn't terrible fw13.

if you want the more traditional stuff, perhaps with embroideries or interesting weaves, not sure if there are any designer options.
post #96835 of 109053
Those are too short, real ones I usually wouldn't want to wear the fabric (same are cool but my skin tone strongly differs from those of most kurta wearers). I wear my JJVE tunic a lot and just want to add a few.icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #96836 of 109053
the current umit one is one of the more convincing long designer ones I've seen lately. might still run into the color problem though. I think there have been nice damir ones in past seasons, not sure about current.
post #96837 of 109053
I was at some 'cultural festival' in DC a few months ago (otherization through song and dance!), and a few folks were wearing kurtas with suits. it was dope. someone here should attempt it
post #96838 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuuma View Post

Those are too short, real ones I usually wouldn't want to wear the fabric (same are cool but my skin tone strongly differs from those of most kurta wearers). I wear my JJVE tunic a lot and just want to add a few.icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

oh man JJVE is fantastic. just get more of that
Quote:
Originally Posted by toothsomesound View Post

the current umit one is one of the more convincing long designer ones I've seen lately. might still run into the color problem though. I think there have been nice damir ones in past seasons, not sure about current.

you mean the ones thecorner has now with the buttoning on the back/neck ? wanted to get it but i can't accept such fastening shog[1].gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bam!ChairDance View Post

I was at some 'cultural festival' in DC a few months ago (otherization through song and dance!), and a few folks were wearing kurtas with suits. it was dope. someone here should attempt it

funny you should mention that because i've been doing it for a while in the hotter months, well more so kurta + matching pants (which are just drawstring balloon trousers in same fabric--different weaves of cottons--and color) with a loose blazer thrown over, usually cotton or rayon.

post #96839 of 109053
eg makes the banded collar 19th century bd long shirt
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post #96840 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post


ok i should clarify

Gotcha. I guess I like it for the exact reasons you dislike it :^)


Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post


You know how I feel about Dries but I actually prefer the Lemaire look here, let's fight
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