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Random fashion thoughts - Page 6455  

post #96811 of 109053
^+1. lemaire reminds me of damir more than anything.
post #96812 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by toothsomesound View Post

shocked re lemaire hate. his silhouettes are so beautiful...his fabrics are so good...puzzled.gif I guess if you're not into oversized stuff then alright but...

 

His colors are boring and his cuts are boring, there's no Fun in any of his clothes or maybe I just don't get the references, but I don't know why anyone would want to dress like that.  He's nothing like yohji, totally lacking the wackiness and sense of humor that yy injects into his stuff.

 

I like his womenswear.  I've only handled a couple things and seen maybe the last 2-3 collections so it could be that he's done cool stuff I haven't seen, idk.

post #96813 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

Don't think that's what he meant.  Like, I have a super bright, shiny floral Dries shirt that is totally ridiculous, but I only wear it in certain situations because it's pretty much the loudest thing ever.  I'm not saving it because I don't want to mess it up, but because it's hard to pull off / I feel like wearing something easy that I don't have to think about 5-6 days a week.  I have a number of things like that.

For reference:  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Photo 27 of 131

For me a lot of my nice stuff isn't ordinary so wearing them all the time is just a little too wild, stuff like mint handknit sweater, ecru robe, burgundy velvet boots, jade green striped houndstooth sweater, etc etc. I will never sell any of it because they just don't makem like they used to.

Also it's more fun to keep people guessing. I have varying degrees to which I dress and constantly dressing in your most uncommon pieces all the time is boring in itself.
post #96814 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post


His colors are boring and his cuts are boring, there's no Fun in any of his clothes or maybe I just don't get the references, but I don't know why anyone would want to dress like that.  He's nothing like yohji, totally lacking the wackiness and sense of humor that yy injects into his stuff.

I like his womenswear.  I've only handled a couple things and seen maybe the last 2-3 collections so it could be that he's done cool stuff I haven't seen, idk.


Those SS14 colors are great, cmon now. He's very good with that muted palette.

I think the way Lemaire reworks more traditional/conservative silhouettes and cuts with minute changes in length or volume is what makes it interesting.
Edited by sipang - 6/18/14 at 1:00pm
post #96815 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by g transistor View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RegisDB9 View Post

My opinion varies but hey it is late, to each his own

oh it wasn't an attack on you at all, and i apologize if it comes off that way. I think it works for people with a certain lifestyle/climate/vision, you falling into that category. for most others it's like trying a fad diet or something

No need to apologize my friend

This topic seems very personal so I wouldn't expect agreement just discussion. I guess minimalism does vary but man, two pairs of shoes sounds like extreme minimalism to me

I have a lot of variables that allow me to do what I do and be happy with it. The thing is I don't want to have grail items and other items, I want all my items to be "grails" in one way or another. My opinion is anytime I am wearing something I want it to be something that I love to wear. So when I eliminate what I find gets no wear or is just something I made a mistake on...it is sold or given away. This to me is a waste of money so by buying and owning few things I feel like not only am i getting my moneys worth, but I am wearing all my "grails" at all times even a grocery run for example. Why? I don't know it just makes me feel like a million bucks and thats what I want from my clothes anyways. I have a very nice washer and dryer that clean up probably 90% of my wears with no problems or hassles. The other 10% does need to be dry cleaned but the point I am trying to make is that more cleaning is not deal breaker

Having too many clothes is just a bad idea to me. I hate having too many options (when it comes to clothing) and I really like seeing a clean and neat closet that I can say "hey its this items turn in the rotation to get some wear, fuck I love this wearing this....as opposed to shit what I wear? Wait I have this new item I didn't even know I had!! Ok let me put on the same thing I always wear cause I am in a hurry" This is just the nature of my lifestyle. I also travel a lot and I enjoy knowing that I don't have to leave behind my favorite items because they are all my favorite

I wouldn't make any piece my "workhorse" they all get their wear when it is their turn, I try to keep it even

When it comes to selling once I post it....it is like it never existed to me. Once I make up my mind I just can't accept it again. nothing that I've sold I have regretted selling because it was just not part of what I truly enjoy wearing

I am sure tho sounds kind of alien to some, but thats how I enjoy my wears. It is a hobby that I don't want to put that much energy in to because honestly there are more important things, too much clutter and too much brand mixing ruins the simple enjoyment I get from wearing my clothes. If it was sociably acceptable I'd just walk around in my birthday suit and call it a day

P.S. excuse my grammatical errors, quick iphone posting is a bitch
post #96816 of 109053
lemaire is closer to yohji than damir. damir is pretty much directionless fashion flotsam at this point. started out with tassles and drapery then went dark luxe giant proportion crazy and seems to be just sort of pinging back and forth around that region. I mean I don't blame him for jumping ship on that early territory as I think it's pretty well expired but he seems to have lost much semblance of identity aside from a few long band collar shirts, sarouel pants and really oversized bombers and parkas but is that really any kind of identity? aw14 was the most coherent (and normal/boring) thing he's done since that wild ass mongols on mount everest collection but obviously the two look like two completely different designers. I wonder what his sales are like.

lemaire has his shapes that he tinkers slightly from season to season and plays with the fabrications but he's pretty much been doing his thing very consistently for a while now.

maybe this is boring for some of you guys. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
men_ss13_950x1425-1.jpg
men_ss13_950x1425-21.jpg
cl_men_fw1314-950x1425-23.jpg
cl_men_fw1314-950x1425-22.jpg
cl_men_fw1314-950x1425-1.jpg
cl_men_fw1314-950x1425-8.jpg

Edited by toothsomesound - 6/18/14 at 1:09pm
post #96817 of 109053
I think there's a good amount of similarity between Lemaire and the last couple Damir collections. Both seem to reference that late 80s/early 90s sense of volume & proportion before everything got skinny (think egg-ish silhouette). Yohji's use of volume is a lot more expansive than that, in my opinion. Maybe it's just because he's been working so long that you can't say he regularly looks back to a specific period, but even if you were to just look at the last few years I feel like there's much more variation. And if you start taking colors into account then Damir and Lemaire are much more closely related in sticking to relatively subdued palettes (Damir did do that spring collection with the Ackermann-ish iridescent stuff so that's an exception). Yohji, on the other hand, is all over the place, mixing all sorts of colors and prints.

people who like Lemaire should check out Matthew Ames, by the way.

Oh, and KingJ i looked back at c4est's post and see your point. think you're right. that's what I get for skimming.

edit: want to add that I really enjoy conversations like this about design rather than just shopping. so definitely no hate or anything, on lemaire or anyone. don't want to give the impression that i'm trying to tear anyone down.
post #96818 of 109053
Love how this forum has Pro-Lemaire and Anti-Lemaire camps that are equally vocal

Obviously, I'm part of the former. Dude taps into all the pros of modernism, the simplicity, the directness, etc, but instead of coming off as cold, his collections are casual and approachable. Whereas strapping on something like a Rick jacket makes me feel like I'm about to break shit (not that that's a bad feeling!), wearing Lemaire brings me a sense of calm.

The shapes, meanwhile, are mostly really cool. I love the subtle twists he adds, such as a enlarging a jacket collar or lowering the notches on his blazers' lapels. And it's hard to accuse him of being 'bland' or 'no fun' when he's willing to borrow so gleefully from the clunkier sides of clothing history, such as the huge shoulders of FW14 or the pleated pants to which he returns season after season. Usually he makes it work, but there are times when Christophe and I don't agree. His embrace of the awkward and the frumpy sometimes gets the best of him. But overall, I'm a big fan.
post #96819 of 109053
semi-related note: Matthew Ames denim capsule collection for Weekday



the man himself

post #96820 of 109053
Oh snap, almost identical vibes. Def gotta check him out
post #96821 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck View Post

I think there's a good amount of similarity between Lemaire and the last couple Damir collections. Both seem to reference that late 80s/early 90s sense of volume & proportion before everything got skinny (think egg-ish silhouette). Yohji's use of volume is a lot more expansive than that, in my opinion. Maybe it's just because he's been working so long that you can't say he regularly looks back to a specific period, but even if you were to just look at the last few years I feel like there's much more variation. And if you start taking colors into account then Damir and Lemaire are much more closely related in sticking to relatively subdued palettes (Damir did do that spring collection with the Ackermann-ish iridescent stuff so that's an exception). Yohji, on the other hand, is all over the place, mixing all sorts of colors and prints.


edit: want to add that I really enjoy conversations like this about design rather than just shopping. so definitely no hate or anything, on lemaire or anyone. don't want to give the impression that i'm trying to tear anyone down.

Old damir or new damir ? in either case i don't see it ... Old damir was all about monochromatic egg silhouettes and orientalist pipe dreams, channeling mongolian warlords and opium den dregs-drinkers and ottoman vassals.
New damir is, in an absurd twist, tailored luxe aimed at i can only assume ladies who are shopping otherwise at established high end houses , which is near impossible for him to break into.

neither of these seem to be in CL's works. he is drawing on so many influences it's all over the place. skinny bottoms with larger tops, corse fabrics, unlfattering cuts but not in some ironic way, at times random colors thrown in...it's as if you take dries, hackermann, EG, make them all bad, and twist their threads into one collection....was never impressed handling the stuff and honestly i'd pay no attention to it were it not for people talking about it here.
my point of reference is really off but i can't say i see any true use of playing with volume and proportions . that's probably because i'm lost in an expansive void of infinite fabrics at this point so that's that.

no clue what yohji has to do with lemaire

agreed on last point , it's what i hope for when i open this thread thankfully back on track.

If I was after something that matches what B!CD is describing I'd go no further than Peir Wu
post #96822 of 109053
Lemaire and Damir tend to be lumped together because they share some of the same design references, work (used to work ?) with the same stylist and are featured together in Encens magazine (co-edited by their stylist, Samuel Drira) but the similarities are superficial at most.
post #96823 of 109053
thanks for the heads up p4, looks like cool stuff. has ames done menswear before?

I enjoy Damir Doma clothes whenever I see them. The things that make it to stores are always pretty well made and very beautiful in person. I've almost bought things on a number of occasions. That being said his shows are incredibly inconsistent, not that that is any way to judge a designer necessarily. I think in a way there are some shared ideas about proportions and silhouettes and a sort of orientalism thing. I just think the consistency Lemaire shows is more Yohji-like. He certainly isn't one for super extravagant visuals or prints.
post #96824 of 109053
Quote:
t's as if you take dries, hackermann, EG, make them all bad, and twist their threads into one collection

seems like a massive stretch. i can see a tiny bit of haider and maybe workwear references automatically = EG but...no they dont? dries?

peir wu is great but she's doing entirely different things with different kinds of fabrics.
post #96825 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post

Old damir or new damir ? in either case i don't see it ...
last couple collections as I said, so new damir. would be hard to draw a comparison with old damir. hah
Quote:
Originally Posted by sipang View Post

Lemaire and Damir tend to be lumped together because they share some of the same design references, work (used to work ?) with the same stylist and are featured together in Encens magazine (co-edited by their stylist, Samuel Drira) but the similarities are superficial at most.

i think sharing the same design references isn't necessarily a "superficial" similarity. It shows a similar point of view or set of preoccupations. And I don't think they'd both work with Drira and turn up in Encens, which has a very defined aesthetic, if they didn't share something. The things you point to, in my opinion, are evidence that there is some affinity there. There are also big differences, of course, but I don't think the similarities are just superficial.
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