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Random fashion thoughts - Page 6243

post #93631 of 98861
why no camel color frown.gif
post #93632 of 98861
Thought I found my mythical Margiela scarf knit for a second there. This is women's line 1 but would of instantly purchased in cream or navy anyways

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2
post #93633 of 98861

LN-CC no longer stocking Yohji :(

post #93634 of 98861
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveoffice View Post

why no camel color frown.gif


Why no navy?
post #93635 of 98861
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveoffice View Post

why no camel color frown.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Find Finn View Post

Why no navy?

Who can say? Well, maybe I can say. Personally, I think that ass Greg and his sycophant Kyle want to ensure that Greg is the only one of SF with one in both and he wants to lord it over everybody while they wear, what he considers to be, stylistically inferior versions.

Either way, I was hoping for one in gray. Gray is one of the options. I'm getting one in gray.
post #93636 of 98861
Regarding Harnden I am moving away from the blazers as other brands fits me better (but equally as hashtag authentic, I'm sure). Still, the cut of his cropped, knee bend trousers is really great and not something I've seen from someone else. I also love the jerkins, coats and I enjoy the fabric he uses for the print shirts.

The first thing that attracted me to his stuff was the fabrics on the tweed blazers, but I must admit I haven't seen the new season yet. Construction wise, sure he can't sew buttons for shit, which is pretty hilarious for the price point, but adding to layman anecdotal evidence - I've never had a problem with construction.
post #93637 of 98861
Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post


the price of everything has gone up, and everything isn't as well made as it once was. i don't know about this anecdotal evidence of shoddy quality , but it's always executed rather poorly with little consideration for problems like variation in fit, etc. unless you believe in a conspiracy that his limited numbers is intentionally a marketing scheme, he's just not that interested in being plastered all over the place. it's this inherent limited accessibility that drives a lot of the madness. search term on a derivative clothing forum isn't really an indicator of hype aside from when you limit your perspective to that community. anyway price is always relatively cheaper overseas too

simone/a1923 has basically copied a lot of ph in his recent designs and has stated as much. he bought bunch of it, made his own stuff, then sold it.

not that harnden is even a designer, he sticks to pretty deprecated, shapeless cuts and sources fabrics from the few operational looms that exist. you pay for outdated technologies that produce fabrics cut into even more antiquated styles. worn head to toe it's no more playing dress-up as victorian pauper than, say, a lolita costume or a noragi and hakamas hashtag so authentic

 

No hype 4 harnden? C'mon, man. Disregard SZ if you like, but he's hot right now. Sorry if that disappoints you. Also, if you gleaned this Harnden lowdown from somewhere other than SZ I'd be surprised. People getting so uptight about that place when they clearly lurk it is bizarre. Internet forum superiority.

 

re: pricing: he might not want to make more clothes, sure; now he's just bumping the price up every season from 10-20% to make up for it. If you have links on these 'relatively cheaper' sources do share.

 

Who even brought up Simone or cosplaying?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by the shah View Post


Everything at hotoveli goes to final sale still now....
And yeah, that's the point. It's always been authentically shoddy construction so the complaint that it's not up to any contemporary standard is a bizarre one.

 

How is it bizarre to say the construction isn't as good? Seems like something you might want to know before dropping somewhere in the ball park of €1,600 on a jacket.


Edited by fistinyoface - 3/26/14 at 4:59am
post #93638 of 98861
Quote:
Originally Posted by fistinyoface View Post

No hype 4 harnden? C'mon, man. Disregard SZ if you like, but he's hot right now. Sorry if that disappoints you. Also, if you gleaned this Harnden lowdown from somewhere other than SZ I'd be surprised. People getting so uptight about that place when they clearly lurk it is bizarre. Internet forum superiority.

re: pricing: he might not want to make more clothes, sure; now he's just bumping the price up every season from 10-20% to make up for it. If you have links on these 'relatively cheaper' sources do share.

Who even brought up Simone or cosplaying?


How is it bizarre to say the construction isn't as good? Seems like something you might want to know before dropping dropping in the ball park of €1,600 on a jacket.

*edit: a bunch of posts on the waywt there romanticizing it beyond reason, maybe the hype there is strong enough to compensate lol

anyway i've liked it, and since i have some friends who are into it (but not like the playboys head to toe) i try to check it out each season. it's just something that interested me and i can appreciate, price tags aside. most people wear it awkwardly.
i can't tell you for sure if the price increase is due to the ever-failing looms he sources materials from, but yes prices are cheaper outside the US that's generally true for EU- and Japanese-based designers. most places don't sell online and i'm not gonna start listing stores to call ...
Onion, who I also quoted, asked about similar alternatives, hence Simone.
It's bizarre because if you do your look into it you realize that a) he's not a designer but a fabric selector and wasteful at that b) he uses century old methods c) it's not ironically some 19th/20th century villager aesthetic but really is just that, then one shouldn't expect it hold up to modern standards of construction and the price is probably related to all this manual labor. you might as well get custom tailoring.

personally i would never spend money on it , at least not anything near retail.
Edited by the shah - 3/26/14 at 5:10am
post #93639 of 98861

As for the designing part of his clothes, to my knowledge that was all, or mostly, Elena Dawson; who you may call a designer despite her anachronistic leanings.

 

A thing to remember for prices: we're not all US based here. It ain't cheap anywhere.

 

It's not just SZ hyping it. Nick Wooster wears the jackets; John Galliano has praised him in the press; Orlando Bloom and Brad Pitt are both frequently snapped in his stuff. Search instagram and check out the flood of Chinese nouveau riche flashing their hauls. SZ is simply a nice little hub.

 

But, eh, my initial reply was only ever meant to be a tongue-in-cheek review to dissuade ol' NaTionS. All good in the hood. :fistbump: 

post #93640 of 98861

My understanding is that some of the big japanese retailers in Japan like Comme des Garcons popularized it.

post #93641 of 98861
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

My understanding is that some of the big japanese retailers in Japan like Comme des Garcons popularized it.

He apparently designed shoes for CdG so they have had a relatively long relationship.
post #93642 of 98861
post #93643 of 98861
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveoffice View Post

why no camel color frown.gif

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Find Finn View Post


Why no navy?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggskip View Post



Who can say? Well, maybe I can say. Personally, I think that ass Greg and his sycophant Kyle want to ensure that Greg is the only one of SF with one in both and he wants to lord it over everybody while they wear, what he considers to be, stylistically inferior versions.

Either way, I was hoping for one in gray. Gray is one of the options. I'm getting one in gray.

 

 

You have to understand that this coat's original run was in 2011, and SS doesn't have enough of the old materials left to do any kind of run on this re-issue this year with the old ones (plus, what's the fun in that?)

 

We were given a number of swatches for both the outer and knit lining, and put together the best possible combos with what they can work with.  The first two options - the charcoal nailhead and the green - are the two ones that will give similar vibes to what was originally made that season.  The fabric weights are similar, the general idea behind it is similar (low contrast tonal pairing on the charcoal, more contrast with warmer colors for the green), and we just think they will turn out to be beautiful coats that feel both very Schneider and very current.  The third option - the super heavy grey wool - is something new as far as I can tell, and will be more rigid and give a slightly different feel than the older coats. It will be almost a more austere option in that it will fall straighter, and just be more structured overall because of the nature of the fabric.  We're really excited about this option as well. 

 

We knew people might like to see something in Camel or Navy, but at the end of the day we wanted to put together combos that would yield the most impressive coats out of the available materials, and there were very deliberate decisions to go with the fabrics we chose.  We just wanted to make coats that people could get just as excited about as those from the initial run :o

post #93644 of 98861

i wish the article went a little more in depth than its 10 or so paragraphs allowed, but it's always nice to see the ways I'm married to the zeitgeist. structure: 1. agency: 0.


also, rft: finding a dry cleaner after moving to a new city sucks, especially now that jeffery d and his (in)famous 2008 suit-pressing guide have made me paranoid enough to consider staying away from dry cleaners for good. guh
post #93645 of 98861
Quote:
Originally Posted by conceptual 4est View Post




You have to understand that this coat's original run was in 2011, and SS doesn't have enough of the old materials left to do any kind of run on this re-issue this year with the old ones (plus, what's the fun in that?)

We were given a number of swatches for both the outer and knit lining, and put together the best possible combos with what they can work with.  The first two options - the charcoal nailhead and the green - are the two ones that will give similar vibes to what was originally made that season.  The fabric weights are similar, the general idea behind it is similar (low contrast tonal pairing on the charcoal, more contrast with warmer colors for the green), and we just think they will turn out to be beautiful coats that feel both very Schneider and very current.  The third option - the super heavy grey wool - is something new as far as I can tell, and will be more rigid and give a slightly different feel than the older coats. It will be almost a more austere option in that it will fall straighter, and just be more structured overall because of the nature of the fabric.  We're really excited about this option as well. 

We knew people might like to see something in Camel or Navy, but at the end of the day we wanted to put together combos that would yield the most impressive coats out of the available materials, and there were very deliberate decisions to go with the fabrics we chose.  We just wanted to make coats that people could get just as excited about as those from the initial run redface.gif

I hope you know that I was being totally facetious. I'm super psyched about the pre-order, and already sent in my order.
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