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Random fashion thoughts - Page 5851  

post #87751 of 109053
Hugo Boss, LV, Tommy Bahama stuff like that. Does not believe in shorts or sandals
post #87752 of 109053

http://www.businessoffashion.com/2013/12/op-ed-goodbye-atelier.html

 

Interesting read..

post #87753 of 109053
Thank for the Franklin Mortgage and investment co recommendation. That place was awesome!
post #87754 of 109053
So, what does everyone think of this last quote from the BoF article:
Quote:
“I had a friend tell me somewhat flippantly that he didn’t think there was any juice left in this idea of a multi-label boutique,” said Steel. “His prediction for the future retail landscape is that we will be littered with flagship stores that are there to promote the brand. This idea of a boutique, things from all over the place, is a hopelessly oddly 20th century idea.”

“I laughed, but inside I was crying, because I felt maybe there was some validity there.”

I'm not sure it's 100% valid quite yet. There's just such a massive selection of brands scattered about the interwebs that, until we get more hubs like FarFetch, make multibrand boutiques necessary just to make sense of it all and to give meaning to the chaos (like, your loyalty to one boutique has a filtering effect). Then again, maybe the multibrand boutiques are what's causing the chaos, and a switch to a primarily flagship model will make retail, both digital and b&m, tidier in general. But I'm interested in what y'all think.
post #87755 of 109053

Regarding the kind-u talk, should I expect duties if buying something? or do they declare below the actual sale price. been through probably a thousand pages of that store and there's so much cool stuff for relatively cheap, just don't want to end up spending way more than what I expect. 

post #87756 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bam!ChairDance View Post

So, what does everyone think of this last quote from the BoF article:
I'm not sure it's 100% valid quite yet. There's just such a massive selection of brands scattered about the interwebs that, until we get more hubs like FarFetch, make multibrand boutiques necessary just to make sense of it all and to give meaning to the chaos (like, your loyalty to one boutique has a filtering effect). Then again, maybe the multibrand boutiques are what's causing the chaos, and a switch to a primarily flagship model will make retail, both digital and b&m, tidier in general. But I'm interested in what y'all think.

The bolded part is almost certainly untrue. Think of multi-brand boutiques as the A&R guys at a record label. They sort through all the crap so that you don't have to. So MySpace came along and 50,000 bands could "connect be heard". It doesn't change the fact that 49,825 of those bands still went virtually ignored.

I think designers need multi-brand boutiques because it provides a way to geographically diversify their customer base. Take a mid-tier brand like wings + horns. I may not buy all of my wings + horns here in Cleveland, but I certainly tie the fact that I buy it all because I had access to it here in Cleveland. If labels move to a Flagship model those stores are only going to exist in like ten cities in the United States. Those stores will also be really expensive to run.

Finally, how would this enable new brands to come along? Right now a new brand can make small runs of a few items and find two or three boutiques throughout the country who are willing to take a flier on something new. If it sells well, the brand makes a bigger run, the stores make a bigger buy, and more stores start to carry the brand. Personally, I think this is one of my favorite aspects of multi-brand boutiques is checking out what new labels they're experimenting with.
post #87757 of 109053
^I think as individual taste grow and mature, get refined over and over, the boutique may get replaced by flagship store as the two perspectives change, diverging rather than converging. On one side (the boutique) you have the store/owner that is catering to a large crowd, updating their collection each season, dropping and bringing in new designers in trying to meet perhaps that "efficient frontier" in their label portfolio. Whereas you have the consumer who has narrowed down their taste in clothing and fashion that they cannot or do not care to keep up with the boutiques seasonal changes. Hence, flagship stores serve the purpose of offering one brand, one theme/element in the design, which said consumer cares about and will buy.

But what really is a boutique? Do you consider a store where they have a very specific theme, and gather a handful of designers of similar aesthetics as a boutique? Or can that be considered a flagship housing multiple designers? What is a flagship? Are web-stores like Yoox / Farfetch considered a flagship, or boutique? Or a whole different animal?

Can a flagship be only internet based, or must there be a b&m?

What is more profitable, boutique vs. flagship?

alien.gif Maybe common sense questions but just my thought, B!CD
post #87758 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggskip View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The bolded part is almost certainly untrue. Think of multi-brand boutiques as the A&R guys at a record label. They sort through all the crap so that you don't have to. So MySpace came along and 50,000 bands could "connect be heard". It doesn't change the fact that 49,825 of those bands still went virtually ignored.

I think designers need multi-brand boutiques because it provides a way to geographically diversify their customer base. Take a mid-tier brand like wings + horns. I may not buy all of my wings + horns here in Cleveland, but I certainly tie the fact that I buy it all because I had access to it here in Cleveland. If labels move to a Flagship model those stores are only going to exist in like ten cities in the United States. Those stores will also be really expensive to run.

Finally, how would this enable new brands to come along? Right now a new brand can make small runs of a few items and find two or three boutiques throughout the country who are willing to take a flier on something new. If it sells well, the brand makes a bigger run, the stores make a bigger buy, and more stores start to carry the brand. Personally, I think this is one of my favorite aspects of multi-brand boutiques is checking out what new labels they're experimenting with
.

Yup, basically my thoughts for the most part. I mainly wrote that bolded phrase 'cause I wanted to entertain a few different possibilities. To add to your points, multi-brand stores also lend legitimacy + meaning to the brands they carry (See Opening Ceremony stocking COS, Mr. Porter stocking J.Crew, etc), making it quite attractive for brands trying to gain converts or crack new markets and, as you said before, making the brand discovery process way easier.

Flagships do have some advantages, though. For one, all the clothing is contained in one space. As much as the "chaos" I mentioned earlier comes from the number of different brands that simply exist, a good portion of it also comes from how scattered collections are across stores. Also-- and this would be the big reason brands would ever decide to stop selling their wares wholesale-- the flagship model gives brands complete control over how they tell their story. How much of the collection they carry, how they run the webshop, etc. Geography wouldn't be thaat important with a strong digital presence. I'm not advocating for the flagship model, but that's basically why they'd do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
^I think as individual taste grow and mature, get refined over and over, the boutique may get replaced by flagship store as the two perspectives change, diverging rather than converging. On one side (the boutique) you have the store/owner that is catering to a large crowd, updating their collection each season, dropping and bringing in new designers in trying to meet perhaps that "efficient frontier" in their label portfolio. Whereas you have the consumer who has narrowed down their taste in clothing and fashion that they cannot or do not care to keep up with the boutiques seasonal changes. Hence, flagship stores serve the purpose of offering one brand, one theme/element in the design, which said consumer cares about and will buy.

This is an interesting point. Sticking a placeholder here for any other thoughts I have on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gettoasty View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
But what really is a boutique? Do you consider a store where they have a very specific theme, and gather a handful of designers of similar aesthetics as a boutique? Or can that be considered a flagship housing multiple designers? What is a flagship? Are web-stores like Yoox / Farfetch considered a flagship, or boutique? Or a whole different animal?

Can a flagship be only internet based, or must there be a b&m?

What is more profitable, boutique vs. flagship?

Other members can add way more insight about profitability than I can, but yeah in this case flagship = single brand
post #87759 of 109053
most turkey day kops came today--actually caught the UPS dude as he was leaving with six boxes, almost entirely blocking his vision. was out of a cartoon or something

bunch of barena stuff, some apc knits, apc jacket, schneider scarf and nike stuff

pretty much all of it aside from the scarf is a touch too small. :-/ barena stuff is beautiful, but a bit too small. length on apc knits are again weird--chest fits, but shoulder length is on both L and XL short. thinking of keeping one or two of the barena blazers for casual or light outerwear and using it almost like a cardigan. material and details are great

schneider scarf is just right though biggrin.gif
post #87760 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raindrop View Post
 

http://www.businessoffashion.com/2013/12/op-ed-goodbye-atelier.html

 

Interesting read..

Very interesting.  @gettoasty , I think that part of your confusion comes from a misunderstanding of definitions.  There are basically 2 categories of stores - multibrand boutiques, and single-brand stores.  A flagship is something else altogether.  It can be either multibrand or single brand, but it's main purpose is to showcase the brand - so, the Ralph Lauren Rhinelander Mansion and the Barney's flagship store in NYC are both Flagships (remember that Barneys itself is a brand, even though it produces relatively little under it's own name.  It is a name that people trust to bring them fashion of a certain genre - urbane, fairly directional, etc...  Sak's has a different DNA, as does Bloomingdales, and so on).   Of course, you can have some hybrids, like J. Crew's Liquor store, but it's mostly a store to showcase J.Crew.

 

I was not a huge fan of Atelier - I like stores that are cluttered and eclectic, which was the opposite of Atelier.  But I did respect Karlo Steel's ideas on fashion.  However, it is pretty clear that he did not spend enough time online, reading, for example, forums like this one, or reading the comments on sites like Zappos.  They made pretty much every mistake you could wrt. the rise of the internet, and that seemed to stem from a fundamental misunderstanding of what "good service" means in 2013, online, and what it takes to be competitive.  I think that every single boutique that opens in 2013 and beyond needs to study winning propositions like Zappos, its parent Amazon, the Yoox Group, and net-a-porter/Mr. Porter.

post #87761 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by superego View Post

most turkey day kops came today--actually caught the UPS dude as he was leaving with six boxes, almost entirely blocking his vision. was out of a cartoon or something

bunch of barena stuff, some apc knits, apc jacket, schneider scarf and nike stuff

pretty much all of it aside from the scarf is a touch too small. :-/ barena stuff is beautiful, but a bit too small. length on apc knits are again weird--chest fits, but shoulder length is on both L and XL short. thinking of keeping one or two of the barena blazers for casual or light outerwear and using it almost like a cardigan. material and details are great

schneider scarf is just right though biggrin.gif

The Barena blazers are meant to be essentially cardigans.  You really can't think of them as "sportjackets" in the conventional way.

post #87762 of 109053

Oh, and also, the multi-brand vs. Same brand retail model. it's clearly not one or the other.  It's a delicate and artful game.  And no one does it better than Ralph Lauren.

post #87763 of 109053
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

I was not a huge fan of Atelier - I like stores that are cluttered and eclectic, which was the opposite of Atelier.  But I did respect Karlo Steel's ideas on fashion.  However, it is pretty clear that he did not spend enough time online, reading, for example, forums like this one, or reading the comments on sites like Zappos.  They made pretty much every mistake you could wrt. the rise of the internet, and that seemed to stem from a fundamental misunderstanding of what "good service" means in 2013, online, and what it takes to be competitive.  I think that every single boutique that opens in 2013 and beyond needs to study winning propositions like Zappos, its parent Amazon, the Yoox Group, and net-a-porter/Mr. Porter.

What would you say were some of the bigger mistakes? The lack of an online checkout comes immediately to mind
post #87764 of 109053
Show prices. Online checkout. Provide measurements.

How does any store not do this? Much less one that sells very very expensive stuff.

There are a few other industries that are pretty behind on online retail too.
post #87765 of 109053
To @Biggskip comment I think the point is that multi-brand boutiques offer visibility you would not have at a single-brand retailer. Key being visibility, which in contrast to Atelier and @LA Guy point is that "A" did not have enough of a presence to continue the life cycle of its business, largely in part not understanding consumers that are now more sophisticated in order to evolve its business model concurrently. If you read the first part of the article, it speaks clearly to LA Guy's point. What is salablity when you cannot even connect to your consumer base? Consider the spheres of influence at the internet age; you cannot solely rely on the foot traffic anymore.

And to your point @Bam!ChairDance I think in tandem with the internet presence or lack thereof, no online checkout just made things worst. Another point I'll add to visibility is convenience.

Hence, going back to your OP it seems Karlo Steel or friend like me is confused with the definition of a boutique vs. flagship. Under LA Guy's valid explanation, and going back to the article, I agree with Biggskip that a multi-brand vs. single brand is much better as it relates to the changing environment and a reflection of culture(s). Of course, you will have dedicated group of consumers who may shop only with one particular designer only, in which there are several flagship stores across the country, and globe. This in turn may gain enough visibility (accessibility), and even convenience when it comes to shopping granted I do not think it comes close to making a few clicks with your mouse @ home.

This does then pose another question, does the consumer evolve from the multi-brand boutique to a single-brand store? How are stores nowadays keeping up with the growing consumer?

Another thought, surely the consumer must have some experience in-person at a boutique, multi-brand or single brand where I think the experience can be invaluable i.e. trying on the clothes, seeing the fabric in person, speaking with more knowledgeable SA's etc. But what happens after the initial discovery? Does it then all become internet based only? I think to the first part, this makes ANY boutique all the more relevant whether it is mutli vs. single, and whether there is an internet following or not.


I don't think multi-brand boutiques are chaotic, but the problem is how long can they extend the "discovery period" to the point of a sure sale.
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