Originally Posted by pickpackpockpuck
I mostly agree, actually. I've posted before that I like the more recent stuff better than the neo-Victorian stuff. But the fabrication, which was never outstanding, is getting cheaper and the designs are being watered down slowly. Where you would see the laced cuff coat a few years ago, today it would be the same but without the laced cuffs. Maybe it would be dip dyed or have contrast sleeves or something instead, which i find less interesting.
No I think it would be cut more structured and be two toned
He can't keep doing the same thing, and one person's (or many peoples') preference does not make the laced cuff coat a better or more worthwhile design than the two tone. The influence is different, the inspiration is coming from a different source and it's hard to say whether or not a design is 'equivalent'
And it's not like the Dip Dye is a new gimmick, not that I don't totally love the pink/purple bow tie shirt
In fact neither are the shirts with contrast body parts, whether it's the collar, or the whole placket, the sleeves, or the whole front of the body, it's the same things he's always done. Except different.
Similar but not quite as good, more contemporary than designer. It would also be made of a cheaper wool. The sweatshirts recently are just not nice. The cotton is thin and flat. The fabric used for the flight pants has gotten a little cheaper. Blazers are more often a mediocre cotton. Real leather has become fake leather. It's stuff like that. Hope that makes sense. I still like Geller (though SS13 was a huge disappointment to me), but I'm having a harder time finding stuff I'd actually want to buy.
And a lot of this is hearsay as well. The wool blends are different for sure but that two tone coat has MORE wool and LESS polyester than my laced cuff. And it only retailed for $50 more two years later.
Is tencel cheaper than cotton/rayon or cotton linen? I don't know but I am a fan. I think it would be a bit overkill to use the shiny cotton/rayon every season and I personally don't like the cotton/linen flight pants. SS13 version is 100% cotton though if they stick with what was on the line list
I can't speak for any old sweatshirts but the two I have from SS12 are exactly what I would expect from a sweatshirt made for summer, light and breezy. I wouldn't want them hot and thick. I will have an SS11 one passing through my hands soon to compare but I don't really even know what kind of fleece existed before then.
AND goddamn my FW11 Richard jacket is so badass, the flecked cotton/wool/linen is just amazing.
I can't say anything about blazers cause I've never handled one new or old but I really wish I would have bought that Diamond blazer a few years ago.
Actually I'm pretty sure the distressed blazer from SS12 was the same fabric as the raglan bomber, which was kind of stiff and awkward but hey that's cotton/linen!
And the FW12 one is just plain wool with a contrast collar, everything in that collection is plain wool. It's British.
Does anyone actually WANT real leather shorts? I think the cupro/nylon or whatever stuff is an awesome creation and would totally wear.
The SS13 color palette is one of the best ever, with some really cool new pieces and some nice remakes of old favorites. I don't see what's not to like. Except CP loafers. And bad graphic tees.
I just think it's all personal preferences, frequently with no real basis, and freakin' nostalgia goggles.