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post #66871 of 79557
11/9/12 at 5:39pm
I went from 0 to 4 cardigans, all in the span of like 3 weeks. I wish I never bought a knit someone stop me (pls sf)

Do I need to buy mothballs? Is that a thing still, moths eating your clothes? Sounds horrifying. How do I size APCs?

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post #66872 of 79557
11/9/12 at 6:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by zissou View Post

The purger in me is daring to sell off about a half dozen things from my closet. They're garments I really don't wear much, mostly Mister Freedom and some EG, but are so unique that I might periodically enjoy pulling them out of the closet to wear. Don't get me wrong, there is some MF, like my midnight denim peacoat, that I'll keep forever. But, I feel like I've moved on from looking like a full-on ship's captain. I'm torn.
In similar news, I was wondering how much I actually like my Nanamica duffle from last FW, until I tried it on over my Mallory jacket. Fuck me, it was a great fit, and it'll be an excellent overcoat this winter.
Sometimes, I feel like I don't appreciate what I have and truly like if there are items in my closet that I'm not sure I want to keep. I'm an all-or-nothing kind of person.

As someone whose closets are completely full, and who has a storage unit full of stuff dating back to about 1996 (I really started getting into fashion in about 1998, so obviously the deadstock I got my hands on only dated a few years further back,) keep it. There are Dirk Schonberger (now designer SLVR) shirts with bibs made out of cut and unfinished strips of poplin fabric. There are a couple of DIY Krones&Kin pieces that were made as essentially an art project, and now seem incredibly current. There are old Jeff Griffin pieces that seem like the precursor of Christopher Raeburn and Greg Lauren's work now. There are, of course, pre-New York move Helmut Lang pieces. and for some reason, protest piece by Raf Simons (I say surprising because I never actually liked him, period. There are Prada and Miu Miu pieces from about 2001, when everyone went full military - and that was when I fell in love with boiled wool - and trust me, wearing boiled wool shirt jackets in San Francisco in early December is a labor of love.

Most of the time, I wear a sweater of some sort, often a cardigan and a tee (I guess going from hoodies to heavyweight cardigans is my concession to being a father of 4 and in my late 30s), jeans that range from slim to antifit saggy, and interesting belt, and hightops or chukkas. But I love having that stuff. Some of it I have no idea why I bought (like the Dirk Schonberger shirts), especially since I was probably never going to wear them, and I bought them on a graduate student budget, but they don't just mark points in fashion history, but parts in my own evolution.

That said, send me a picture of your stuff, and I will tell you what you should sell to me, and for how much. I promise to be fair.
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post #66873 of 79557
11/9/12 at 6:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bam!ChairDance View Post

I'm impressed APC's cut worked on you. I found it to be one of the strangest cuts of any of the suits I've tried
If your body is pretty standard (6" drop), there are lots of discounted suits online. I always recommend CKC, for example. Of course, since I have a nonstandard drop, I have to go with separates. In which case I'd actually recommend Rag & Bone's Danbury or Ellington models, which IIRC are about 1k.

I have a 10" drop, so I have to buy pants and jacket as separates.
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post #66874 of 79557
11/9/12 at 6:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

As someone whose closets are completely full, and who has a storage unit full of stuff dating back to about 1996 (I really started getting into fashion in about 1998, so obviously the deadstock I got my hands on only dated a few years further back,) keep it. There are Dirk Schonberger (now designer SLVR) shirts with bibs made out of cut and unfinished strips of poplin fabric. There are a couple of DIY Krones&Kin pieces that were made as essentially an art project, and now seem incredibly current. There are old Jeff Griffin pieces that seem like the precursor of Christopher Raeburn and Greg Lauren's work now. There are, of course, pre-New York move Helmut Lang pieces. and for some reason, protest piece by Raf Simons (I say surprising because I never actually liked him, period. There are Prada and Miu Miu pieces from about 2001, when everyone went full military - and that was when I fell in love with boiled wool - and trust me, wearing boiled wool shirt jackets in San Francisco in early December is a labor of love.
Most of the time, I wear a sweater of some sort, often a cardigan and a tee (I guess going from hoodies to heavyweight cardigans is my concession to being a father of 4 and in my late 30s), jeans that range from slim to antifit saggy, and interesting belt, and hightops or chukkas. But I love having that stuff. Some of it I have no idea why I bought (like the Dirk Schonberger shirts), especially since I was probably never going to wear them, and I bought them on a graduate student budget, but they don't just mark points in fashion history, but parts in my own evolution.
That said, send me a picture of your stuff, and I will tell you what you should sell to me, and for how much. I promise to be fair.

Your son(s) are going to love going through your collection when they are big enough to wear stuff (provided you let them).
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post #66875 of 79557
11/9/12 at 6:51pm
Can anyone give me some advice on sizing for Kris van Assche shirts? The model on SSense has measurements very close to mine, and he's wearing a size 46/small, which is a size that would never really work for me with most brands. Are KVA shirts fairly generously sized?
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post #66876 of 79557
11/9/12 at 7:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by habitant View Post

I have a 10" drop, so I have to buy pants and jacket as separates.
Yeah, separates land is no fun confused.gif. I'll never get to enjoy the feeling of finding a whole suit online, pressing "buy," and having my search end there.
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post #66877 of 79557
11/9/12 at 7:06pm
Anyone have any backpack recommendations? I'm looking for a black, preferably leather (though I'd consider other materials), simple one. I need it for class and stuff so it should be of decent size. Definitely not looking for anything 'tech'-like. I only have a little over a semester left, but I like backpacks so depending on what I'm doing after graduation it might get a lot of use. The cheaper the better of course but I could go to $300+ if I felt it was worth it.

I like these (but they're too expensive or unavailable): Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Ann D...~$900, which is much more than I'd like to spend.


TOJ. Shame I didn't get one when I could.


Eastpak. Not available in the U.S. AFAIK. I would get a proxy but I'm also concerned that it would be too small.


Henson. Sold out on the one webstore that sells it.

Most of these are pricier examples but it doesn't really need to be all that nice. Something like the Eastpak one would work (but bigger).
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post #66878 of 79557
11/9/12 at 7:11pm
Way about haerfast? Retail is 5-600 but can be found on discount..
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwyhajlo View Post

Can anyone give me some advice on sizing for Kris van Assche shirts? The model on SSense has measurements very close to mine, and he's wearing a size 46/small, which is a size that would never really work for me with most brands. Are KVA shirts fairly generously sized?

I always size up since they seem to have tiny/high armholes. Other than that I think they fit like most designer shirts; shoulder is around17" and chest is around 19" on a small
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post #66879 of 79557
11/9/12 at 7:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdl203 View Post

Scabal fabrics are overpriced, fragile and really only good for something you wear 3x a year - at least that's my experience.
You're better off with H&S, Minnis, Lesser, etc...

I think that "overpriced" is too strong a word, but yes, it's not hard wearing. On the other hand, how hard wearing does a pant of formal trousers have to be, unless you are James Bond?

Black is tricky. I looked through lots of books, and invariably, it's hard to find a truly rich black. Of course, cheap black fabrics are hideous. But, we're not talking cheap now, are we. For some formal wear I commissioned I chose a mini-herringbone black that gave more depth than did the worsteds I looked at. For a climate like LA, you might want to look at a lightweight fabric. Huddersfield carries a really nice silk wool lightweight blend from Hunts&Winterbotham that would probably work great for LA:

http://www.hfwltd.com/bobb.php?b=haw&c=3&p=1

Not cheap, and a good tailor, while not necessarily a great stylist, should be a great designer, and be able to tell you whether the cloth is suitable. I would never choose a cloth for CMT without consulting with the tailor with whom I am working.

This your first foray into bespoke? It can be pretty fun, but also, a huge headache. I personally prefer RTW, but I also happen to really like novelty.
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post #66880 of 79557
11/9/12 at 7:56pm
Fair points, Fok. I couldn't really care much about the EG- it's the Mister Freedom that has me conflicted. If that's the case, I should probably keep them. They'll likely never be made again, in any iteration. It sounds like you have some great pieces stored away. My closet is definitely full, but I need to do a little remodel since I bought the house a year ago, and it should be just fine...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggskip View Post

Your son(s) are going to love going through your collection when they are big enough to wear stuff (provided you let them).
Wonderful point there. My daughter will be tall, and she would probably enjoy wearing some MF when she's older. That thought really makes me smile smile.gif
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post #66881 of 79557
11/9/12 at 7:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

I wouldn't mind if you occasionally dropped the internet persona for posts like this more often, either.

I've been wearing my VB coat every single day since it got cold.  It's not flashy or weird like a lot of shit that gets repped here, it's just really, really perfect.  MMM has a lot of things with that characteristic, too.  Every time I've owned something that was avant garde or really blatantly designer-y, it's been sold or gone back eventually, and I can't think of a lot of designers that are catering to people who just want to wear normal-ish, nice (casual) clothes right now.  If you're the funky bizcaz/ trouser-wearing type, you can do a lot better, but really I just want to wear jeans + boots + knit/tshirt and jacket 90% of the time.  Name me a designer that had jeans as a core part of their collection this season that isn't in the goth ninja camp.

Balmain if you want to be a rock star.
Junya Watanabe for the gentleman farmer mashup
Dolce&Gabbana if you want to be an Italian farmer/fisherman manslut.
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post #66882 of 79557
11/9/12 at 8:08pm
KJ I have a feeling you'd like Poeme Bohemien.
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post #66883 of 79557
11/9/12 at 8:34pm

KJ, dsquared jeans are pretty good. I know the brand is not everyone´s cup of tea, but their jeans have a really nice feel. I own a bunch of them and they´ve got some great fits. They also have many models and you can get them on sale for a decent price. If not, scout for some balmains, like LA Guy said. I got mine for 200 bucks on farfetch (on discount from over 500) while browsing every corner of the internet one night.

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post #66884 of 79557
11/9/12 at 9:30pm
To invent a new opera. He gave me the assignment to break with all rules and I made my best effort to do so. Today it seems to me as though we had been little children and we screamed against a high and strong wall: tradition.

And so tonight I went to a performance of Don Giovanni in a light blule/grey wool-cotton blend yohji suit, top button of 3 done only, white tee and chucks in off white, dirtied from constant wear. a white pocket square garnishing. I wish pickpackpockpuck was around for this one biggrin.gif
Edited by the shah - 11/9/12 at 10:26pm
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post #66885 of 79557
11/9/12 at 11:56pm
Fuck yeah Styleforum?

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